N601RX

I have the 300 and external directional antenna, no display but its connected to my audio panel. It will occasionally give a nuisance alert, but generally the alerts that continue and get closer are real. It also shows the relative altitude of the other aircraft. The 300 plus models are able to use the directional antenna.

Someone was selling one on Beechtalk last week.

It's also possible you may have a small air leak between the pump and tanks. The gasolator has been known to leak.

Similiar, but it's either a 12 point or some kind of spline. I think Lycoming quit producing narrow deck engines back in the 70's or 80's. The same models are now available in wide deck.

If it uses regular hex nuts to hold the cylinders on then it is wide deck. Narrow deck uses an internal Allen wrench style nut.

In addition to the 7/16 valve stem, there was also smaller bearing dowels used up until the early 70's that reduced TBO to around 1200 hrs. When we overhauled our engine a few years ago we were surprised to find we still had these.

Be sure the hose is routed through the hole in the bracket. It seems like it isn't setting flat against the bracket.

It's been a couple of years since I've had one out, but are you sure there isn't a 2nd hole in the bracket the servo mounts to? If I remember correctly it mounts to a riveted bracket and not directly to the spar. Compare it to the other side and look for any obvious difference.

On Slicks they are both a 10-32 stud.

Did they swap the p lead with the retard breaker lead?

I would not remove them based on just a high iron reading. As long as compression, oil consumption and borscope looks good continue to fly and monitor it. The high iron could also be coming from the cam.

Look through your logs and see how many hours are on them since they were new. Then see if they are oversized or std. Also determine if they are chrome or steel. How many hrs on the motor since overhaul? What is the general condition of the rest of the engine? Assuming the engine has somewhere in the 1000hr range then repairing the cylinders should last you as long as the rest of the engine.

Lycoming is the only option new. They are around $2k each. Because of the price difference between new and repaired most people choose to repair their existing cylinders as opposed to new or exchanged cylinders of unknown origin. What is wrong with them? Compression, oil usage, valve leakage?

Paper charts and plates have always traditionally been in the lap or on pilots yoke. How is the iPad different?

I just looked at O&N's website and the prices look to be inline with what they have been for the last several years. Perhaps a small increase.

If you dial in some heading say 20 deg, does the gps show it as being 15, 20 or 25? I'm not familiar witht he 530, but I think you will find a maintenance screen where you can make the HSI and 530 headings match by adding an offset. At least older GPS's have this ability.

I flew around with it in my lap for a long time. I finally decided to try yoke mounting it and have been happy with that setup. I was able to position it so it would not block my panel view. I didn't want it up above the panel where it could block outside view. The Garmin app has a popup timer, I've been waiting for Foreflight to add one. The clock feature that is contained in the ios has a timer that will run in the background and then alert when the time expires by popping up a window as well as an alert to the headset over bluetooth. I currently have the ipad 3 which is a little larger than I would like on the yoke and have been thinking about getting a Air or Mini.

Many years ago it was common to dial the crank, replace the bolt/dowel and go fly. Now most elect for a full tear down as the insurance will pay for it. Here are a few reasons some don't do the full tear down Owner has no insurance and wants it back flying as cheaply as possible. Owner doesn't want to risk having to come up with any extra money to cover what is not covered by insurance on full tear down inspection. The plane is totaled and sold as salvage. Junk dealer buys it and gets it back in air as cheaply as possible to maximize profit.

I purchased a new set a few years ago that had 90 deg brass boots on the plug ends. The 90 deg bend lets the wire exit without a sharp bend. They have held up very well. At the time they were manufactured by a small company called skytronics. They have since been purchased by Kelley.

I believe when I 1st got my 67F it still had the original cover panels. The inside of them was covered with something that resembled heavy tar paper. The 3 piece access panels were in pretty bad shape and I replaced them with a single piece of aluminum. I later added the 201 window. The stick on insulation and soundproofing from spruce would probably work well.

I live inside the Ft Rucker MOA which also has a small restricted area. I normally use Flight Following if going in that direction. I've found it best to talk to the local military controllers. They know exactly what is going on in it at any given time and will often let you pass straight through, while center may not have up to the minute info. I've also had them refuse to allow me to drop flight following when in the MOA. They simply said in a very stern voice "we need you to stay with us for a few more minutes." I also go into the Eglin area ocasionally on the weekend and found the military controllers there to be very accommodating when passing through their restricted areas.

Be sure when putting everything back together that the pin that holds the interior door handle in place is fully inserted. There have been cases of it backing out in flight leaving the occupants no way out other than calling someone to come let them out from the outside. Mooney also sells a kit that has a secondary door latch.

This has been discussed in depth on Beechtalk within depth clarification from Peter who was one of the founders of. Aspen. He also set on the committee that drew up most of the relevant rules.

I've been using the twist on extension from Wally World that has the 1/4 turn valve. I always just leave it on the last bottle of oil I used and screw the cover back on the top of the spout.

If you search the previous gear up thread you will see that several of them had instructors on board actively giving instruction when it happened.