N601RX

If your sure your going replace the wing vs repair it then a reciprocating saw will make quick work of getting it ready to trailer.

I've also saw pictures of Lasar hauling them sideways with the engine and tailfeathers removed, but empennage still attached. It looked like they removed the nosegear and set it down on the trailer and let the tail stick up in the air at an angle. There are also aircraft salvage companies that have sidewards tilting trailers that may can haul it whole.

Here is another possible option that has not been mentioned. The dent you have is very close if not in the exact location as the factory wing mounted landing light in the newer models. Instead of repairing the plane it may be possible to just modify and upgrade to a wing mounted light using the factory parts and reinforcements that support the cutout. That way no damage history, just a log entry and a 337 stating that the landing light was added. There are a few older planes that have this modification. I think I have a copy of the paperwork from one of them. Perhaps you can find a picture online and determine if the light would cover the damage area.

The light issues are most likely weak circuit breakers, loose screw on the breaker or corrosion between the buss bar and circuit breaker. Starting issue could be either shower of sparks or mag.

I would look for someone with good sheetmetal skills and structural repair experience more so that what authorizations they have. There are a some Service centers who have guys who can change the skins and you will not be able to distinguish which panels were changed. There are also other service centers who would likely make a complete mess of it. Not all good engine guys are good sheet metal guys and not all good sheetmetal guys know much about engines. Getting the seams to lay down flat and setting several hundred rivets in a difficult to reach place without dimpling the skin with the rivet gun requires a unique skillset.

I'm not familiar with the MV50, but all the JPI units requires some configuration before the %HP is correct. It doesn't look like yours has been set up yet. Based on your MP and Fuel flow you we're likely below 50% power.

It will work fine with the 89. They will share information in both directions.

If the shop is insured then only deal with their insurance. For now just notify your insurance in case the shop is not insured. Their insurance has a lot more responsibility than yours does. The only thing your policy is likely responsible for is to repair the damage minus your deductible. If processed through their insurance then they are on the hook to cover all your losses. This includes your travel time, repairs, loss of value and loss of an airplane to use while yours is being repaired. There is another member here who had a similar problem at a shop. The shops insurance ended up paying for him to be transition trained on an Cirrus SR 22 and provided the SR22 for his use until his plane was repaired and back flying. That would make the deal a little less bitter.

Its pretty large, I have a couple of small quarter sized dings in my leading edge that was filled over before painting several years ago before I purchased it. The paint has chipped off now and the filler is visible. I would take a play from the "MF FAA thread" and send pictures to Mooney and asked for their opinion. Based on their previous response they will say the skin should to be replaced, then use that as leverage. You may want to consider moving it somewhere else who has experience doing this to have it done. After you add labor and paint this is going to be expensive. I can't tell from the pictures, but does the dented skin overlap the fuel outer fuel tank bay? Does the shop have insurance?

Scott had some used engine parts a while back. I visited Divco a few years ago, they have a very large inventory of used cases.

Check Aircraft Specialties, they have good prices and a large inventory. http://www.aircraft-specialties.com/search.php?search_query=71622&x=0&y=0 Also check with Aero In Stock. If unsure of pn email Lycoming support and they can tell you which one you have.

Both the pn's listed above are for a wide deck. I think you have the incorrect manual. You can verify by looking at the cylinder hold down nuts. If narrow deck then they will use an internal wrench, otherwise it's a normal hex nut. The A1A has been produced as both narrow and wide deck.

Are you sure 75165 is the correct part number for the A1A? The manual I have shows 75166 and 75167 as correct for the O360-A1A engine. Also find out if the engine is narrow or wide deck. They use a different part manual. Lycoming tech support has always been good about resolving issues like this.

Were you able to get the FSDO to do the approval or was it done by a DER? Did they require any fly offs before completing the approval?

You will have to drill 2 holes in the top of the pedals to mount them. It might be best to just swap pedals if they are in similiar condition. They will also change the geometry of the arc as you depress the pedal. I'm 5'8" and they made things more comfortable for me and got me a comfortable distance from the yoke. Mooney also offered an option for an extra set of holes at the rear of the seat rail to allow you to get the seat back further.

I think they are the company that manufactures them for O&N.

Do some research on Champion resistance problems. Before I switched to finewire Tempest I had Champion plugs fail that had less than 20 hrs on them and still appeared new. You can't go by looks, measure the resistance of the internal resistor.

I would lean toward an ignition issue. Do you know what kind of spark plugs you have? Champion plugs have known reliability problems.

Certain com channels have frequency harmonics that fall in the GPS band and is know to cause these problems. If you look in especially the older GPS install manuals you will see a page that instructs the installer to transmit on certain com frequencies and verify that the GPS is not affected. Some radios have cleaner output than other. There is a coaxial filter available that is susposed to help. RG400 coax and keeping the com and GPS coax as for away from each other as possible will help. Connecting the offending radio to a bottom mounted antenna is also a possibility. Example from kln94 install manual F.Select the AUX 2 page, verify that no asterisks appear next to any satellite with an elevation greater than 25°. Select 121.15 MHz on COMM 1. Transmit on COMM 1 for a period of 20 seconds and verify that no asterisks appear indicating satellites with an elevation of greater than 25°. Repeat for the following frequencies: 118.000, 120.925, 121.175, 121.200, 123.825, 127.100, 130.625, 131.250, 131.275 131.300 and 134.150 MHz. Repeat the above procedure for all VHF COMM’s on board the aircraft. If any of the above tests do not pass (any asterisks appear on satellites with greater than 25° during the above tests), it will be necessary to identify the source of the interference. There are two common sources of interference: 1.The 12th and 13th harmonics of the above mentioned frequencies can be radiated from the VHF COMM at a level strong enough to be a problem to the GPS but still be well low enough to meet TSO/JTSO requirements for the VHF COMM If the interference is from the radiating VHF COMM, an optional notch filter (i.e. the KA 198 P/N 071-01565-0000 or TED Mfg 4-70-54) will need to be installed. The recommended location for the inline filter should be as close to the VHF RT as practical. NOTE The conditions and tests performed on this article are minimum performance standards. It is the responsibility of those desiring to install this article either on or within a specific type or class of aircraft to determine that the aircraft installation conditions are within these performance standards. The article may be installed only if further evaluation by the applicant documents an acceptable installation and is approved by the Administrator. 2.The other possibility is re-radiation from an ELT. The radiated RF from the VHF COMM can excite the output tank circuit of the ELT and cause it to oscillate and radiate RF strong enough to interfere with the GPS. If disconnecting the ELT antenna eliminates the GPS interference, the manufacturer of the ELT should be contacted for a recommended solution.

Check the fine print carefully. It's only for newer serial numbers that come from the factory with the electric valve. It doesn't cover any of the older ones, even then ones that legally had the electric valve installed as part of the yoke conversion. Both the STC supplement and the Flight Manual supplement list a range of serial numbers.

The Lopresti is a nice addition.

Mooney has a drawing that allows swapping out the vac button/valve with the electric switch and electrical solenoid. I don't remember if it shows a push switch or flip switch, I can look when I get home. As Scott mentioned the drawing is included on the main drawing for the yoke retrofit kit.

Just because something is installed at the factory does not mean they were included in the type certificate. I believe these were installed at the Mooney factory under an STC owned by Brittain and are not part of the Mooney type certificate.

Has it just got this way or always been like this? The guy who was teaching a Lycoming service school a few years ago told a story about a batch of crank gears that had a "vague" timing mark on one tooth and the real timing mark on the next tooth. A few people managed to confuse the two and had what appeared to be a good engine that didn't make normal power. He showed how to detect this by positioning a cylinder at TDC and moving the prop back and fouth a few degrees while observing the 2 rockers. If I remember correctly their beginning to open should be centered around TDC when the cam timing is correct Lycoming uses hydraulic lifters so you would need to remove the valve spring pressure to get a good measurement. It would probably be best to remove the rockers and pushrods and measure directly on top of the lifter.

The JPI 830 has a MP correction factor that can be set. Do you know if it was ever set? If so it should read 29.9 on a standard day at sea level. Otherwise 27 is to low. Start by verifying that the throttle is opening the servo butterfly completely open.