N601RX

I added them to my F model 4 years ago. There is no STC to do this. It is a Mooney supplied upgrade kit that is already part of the type cert and just.requires a log book entry. I was able to find used parts for around $400. At the time a new kit was unavailable, but the cost was around $3K when available. They are a little time consuming to install, bending and routing all the lines. If you want to see the drawings and what is involved I have an electronic copy I can email to you.

The engine overhaul manual says that it recommends following SB240, but does not say that it is required. Lycoming releases a new version of 240 every couple of years with each version longer than the one before. Its very possible that valves were not included in 1990.

I added them to my F model 4 years ago. There is no STC to do this. It is a Mooney supplied upgrade kit that is already part of the type cert and just.requires a log book entry. I was able to find used parts for around $400. At the time a new kit was unavailable, but the cost was around $3K when available. They are a little time consuming to install, bending and routing all the lines. If you want to see the drawings and what is involved I have an electronic copy I can email to you.

That is not the way oil flows in a Lycoming. The oil that goes to the governor comes directly from the oil pump and does not go through the oil filter.

The STC for something like this will require the mechanic to attach a flight manual supplement to the existing manual or POH. It your not sure if the stc was properly filed with the faa you can order a copy of your aircraft records for $10. It only takes about a week to get. Then you can see how bad paperwork problem really is. Hopefully it's just some misplaced paperwork on your end by a previous owner. Your records should include: copy of the stc, copy of the 337, flight manual supplement, w&b, and logbook entry.

If you have the SWTA window conversion the STC calls for a specific sealent. Stay with the B2, it gives some extra time if things don't go as quickly as planned. Check the color of Flamemaster and PPG, most of the flamemaster I have saw is grey and the PPG is usually dark brown/black. The mixer adaptor for a drill is nice also if you need to mix several tubes, it's only $5 or so.

If you want to verify the accuracy you can use an ice bath. An insulated cup filled with small ice chips and just enough water to cover them will give you a reference temperature very close to 32dF. If prepaired properly it can be a NIST standard.

I put them in about 4 years ago and have been happy with them. The only problem I had was they have a slightly larger footprint than some of the instruments. Be sure your instruments have enough space between them. They can be trimmed down if needed.

Replacing the turn cordinator will interfere with his plans to install the autopilot he mentioned he was going to install.

These gauges are pretty crude. They are just a coil that produces a magnetic field to move the needle in series with a resistive sensor. There is no internal voltage reference they just use the bus voltage so they are susceptible to voltage changes. The heater pulls about 10 amps. There may be some higher than normal resistance in your bus connections that are allowing more voltage fluctions than normal when the heater is turned on.

http://lane-pilot.com

Has anyone tried to put a steel ball on the inside and use a magnet on the outside to roll the steel ball back and fourth over the ding? The theory behind this is that the steel ball has a very small contact area with the dent and can concentrate a lot of force in a very small area. There are some u-tube videos of dents in musical instruments being removed this way. There is also this system, it would be interesting to know how expensive it would be if you delivered the plane to him. http://www.fluxtronic.com/index.php

I used a cheap pump up sprayer from Lowes for preoiling. It would give me about 65psi of pressure. I put a T in the oil gauge line and was able to push oil in from there. I was able to get oil to go up through the pushrods into the cylinder rocker area by doing this. My engine was field overhauled with my IA's help. We did a very quick run-up to check for leaks and verify full throttle and prop control. After replacing the cowl we pulled it out to the runway and took off. The 1st few minutes on a new cam and lifters it is critical that the lifters rotate while going up and down and that the proper wear pattern develops. If it doesn't happen the lifters will never rotate and the cam will not last very long. A mixture of STP and oil is used as assembly oil for most of the engine, but the cam and lifters use a thick moly grease.

Be sure it is really threads. Depending on where it goes some of the fittings are threaded, others are a press fit and have ridges like a hose barb which may look like thread at 1st glance.

The round connector also has a serial RS232 connection. I know it outputs NEMA data, but I'm not sure if it has the ability to do anything else.

Perhaps it was one of these guys on O2.

I've also rotated mine a couple of times. Originally it was vertical, but with the new panel I moved it to horizontal. The viewing angle is also affected by the physical orientation the unit is mounted in. Buttons on the right vs buttons on the left.

The valve springs have an AD that require replacement every 500 hrs and the parts are not available.

Shop around for the installer. These are not rocket since to install. The wiring harness is mostly complete, well labeled and only requires crimping the sensor end terminals. The install manual does a good job of covering each sensor and it's mostly a process of connecting red wire to red wire and yellow to yellow. It don't require an avionics shop if you have an IA who I will take the time to refer to the manual. I did both my 830 and 900 under my IA's supervision and everything worked correctly. I know a few others who have done th same.

These use finger type contacts and the display can be removed by sliding it upward gently after the front is removed. A light rubbing with a pencil eraser will clean the contacts on the display. Take care not to break the small glass protrusion on the back of the display.

I'm thinking it is only a matter of time until foreflight releases an update and the Stratux will mysteriously quit working. Of course the Foreflight update will contain some firmware to update the real Stratus units so they will continue to work.

That is also another difference in the two. The oil cooler on a parallel valve engine is a single pass while the angle valve engines use a dual pass.

Here is a link that has the cooling capacity curves for a given pressure differential for both the angle valve and parallel valve cylinders. You can see the cooling capacity of each for a given airflow. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=79961

Another point to consider, there is about 6lbs weight difference between the factory gauges + 830 and removing them and installing a 900.

I would go ahead and install the Brittain stuff. It shouldn't cost that much since you already own it and have had it serviced. You could even do some of the work like remove the side panels and run the tubing from up front to the back. It will benefit you immediately, even if VFR. I put in a non precision approach gps KLN94 a few years ago so I would have something to drive the autopilot with. If I had it to do over I would probably have waited and put in a 430w. Have you considered selling the kx155 and indicator, dme and kx170 and putting that money with the $5K you have budgeted? You might have to come up with a little more money for the install, but that would come very close to getting you a 430w and CDI. Then you could add a audio panel, second radio and transponder in a few years when you saved up some more money.