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Everything posted by N601RX
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51 year old prop governor?
N601RX replied to stevebennett327's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
Yes there is both a front and rear plug in the front section of the hollow cranks. For a fixed pitch prop you install the front plug and remove or puncture the rear plug. For a constant speed prop only the rear one is installed. If the rear one comes out on a constant speed you loose the governor function. It can be installed with the prop removed. -
51 year old prop governor?
N601RX replied to stevebennett327's topic in Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
For tractor repair and such McMaster also has a CNC gasket cutting service for any of the gasket material that they sell. All they need is a CAD file. If it's an H1 governor it doesn't use a gasket in the gear pump section, it just uses a sealent much like the case halves do. There is a large gasket around the flyweight section on the rear. -
I have a used set of Rosens that I would like to install, but the problem is that the 67 models do not have the threaded tab welded to the steel bar that goes around the windshield. I understand Lasar made some sort of bracket to overcome this for their visors, but have been unable to find a picture of one. It may have just been a simple hose clamp. I would like to machine something that follows the curvature of the bar without dinging it up.
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It will turn toward the side with the largest leak. A handheld vac pump is the best way to verify all the leaks are fixed. You can connect it to each side indivudally and 30-40 pumps will give you full deflection. It should be able to hold that for a few minutes with only minimal leakage. You can plug the hand pump on the pilots side just above the pilots left knee. Look for the green and red hoses. It may be easier to attach from the outside with the avionics cover removed. The leaks can be further narrowed down by attaching the pump to each run of the Tee in the baggage compartment. One run of the Tee goes to the wing and the other goes to the tailcone. The 2 in the tail cone are easy to see/inspect/remove. The ones in the wing require much more technique. They are located just inside the inspection panel in front of the aileron control rod.
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Here is where they show mounting the altitude hold on the copilot side. It's just a thin bracket that spaces it off the side skin 1/2 inch or so.
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Do you have the large flat side air scoops on each side. I mounted one of my control boxes to it. You could also fab a bracket like the altitude hold uses to mount it to the side skin.
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It looks like you have a remote box with the switches removed from the box and the wires extended, I think brittain built some this way, but it is not the common setup. If you don't have the faceplate to mount the switches in I would call brittain and see if they have one. If you have the faceplate it may be possible to mount it back to the unit or just leave it remote like it is. If it's left as a remote unit just be sure that wherever you mount it gives you easy access to the internal gain adjustment. This is the more common setup. It's also available with the toggle switches like you have. It's usually mounted in a cutout or with 2 Adel clamps just below the panel.
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I had one quit a couple of years ago. I replaced it with a Tempest 3000. At the time they seemed to be the best available and have a wear port so you can monitor wear and replace it before it fails. I also use the CV1J4 filter and changed it after the pump failed. No more problems.
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I would have a hard time not saying something. The broker may not know, the owner may have hid it from him.
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Here is what the fiberglass lower doors look like. They are lower profile and don't have the fairing mounted to the wing behind the doors. I found these a while back with a few dings.
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You can check and make sure, but I believe if you remove the exhaust tunnel on the copilot side that you will find that you do not have the mounting bracket present to hold the rear of the master cylinder.
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The reason I mentioned this earlier was that I had spent a considerable amount of time a few years ago reading through enforcement cases and advisory opinions trying to figure what was ok. A few times a year I'm able to fly myself somewhere on company business. What I found out is the FAA takes a very strict interpetion of reimbursement. As long as it was just me, no coworkers and no supplies or packages it was generally ok. You definitely need to talk to an attorney who specializes in aviation if your going to do this on any regular basis. Thing get a lot simpler if the company you work for owns the plane and you have a commercial license. They will get a lot more usage benefit from the plane. Here are a few examples that would be a violation for a ppl if accepting compensation. Your going on a planned trip to inspect a project and at the last minute the boss says, "I just got a call from the jobsite and a machine is broke. It's costing us $10k an hr. Please give them this package as soon as you arrive" Your going on a planned trip to inspect a project and at the last minute the boss says I think I'll tag along if you don't mind. I need to talk with the workers about some issues. A friend calls one day and says he doesn't feel good and ask you if you would fly his plane to a nearby airport for maintaince and that he will pick you up. You fly the plane over for him and record the flight in your logbook but don't accept any money for it.
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Be sure you have a good understand what the FAA will allow for reimbursement under these conditions. The interpretation of the FARS are not as straight forward as they seem for an employee of a company. Self employed is easier and the plane can be a large deduction.
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My brother was looking for a plane to use 2-3 day a week for business travel over Alabama and Florida. After looking at a couple of older Mooneys he decided on an RV6. Its worked out very well, he puts about 400hrs yr on it. They are very simple and cheap to maintain, it goes faster than my F, will out climb it and uses less fuel. They went to the Bahamas's three times on it last year.
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A few years ago we had about 12 people who was willing to put money down on the SWTA window conversion, but even that could not make it happen. The laser conversion was unavailable for a couple of years while Mooney was semi closed as the cowl deck was not available. The Lasar conversion is back available now. I found a previously uninstalled SWTA kit a couple of years ago and the owner was a regular customer of SWTA. He was able to get them to transfer the STC to me. It was one of the better upgrades I have done.
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If your interested in northern Fl, check out SkyRanch in Baker Fl. Its just outside of Pensacola. I think most of the places there are about 1/3 of your budget.
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The early serial numbers began with the year they were manufactured in, In the early 70's they abandoned this scheme and started using numbers in the 20's. http://www.mooneyevents.com/chrono.htm
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Find out where each one gets its voltage from. They may not be fed from the same buss. The busses should not have anywhere near this much difference between them unless there is a bad connection between them. Also look at the ground strap to the engine. The JPI should be grounded to the engine, not the airframe. The EI will be grounded to the airframe.
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Be sure your C came from the factory with the mounting brackets for the master cylinders. Here are the serial numbers the kit will work with.
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Bite the bullet - Top overhaul on M20R
N601RX replied to PMcClure's topic in Modern Mooney Discussion
There is also some concerns when removing all 6 cylinders at once. Mike Bush has wrote about it a couple of times. -
It's easy to rotate a 900 from vertical to horizontal. It's just matter if loosening 1 screw and re tighten it after rotating it. Then push a couple of buttons to tell it to rotate the text. You could tell the installer to install it vertical for now but to be sure to route the wires in a manner and leave enough slack it could later be rotated and moved to its final place when you redo the panel.
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I installed a PCU 5000, it works great.The prop needs to be flushed also, it holds quite a bit of oil and sludge will build up in it over time. Although an A&P isn't allowed to do it, on a Hartzell its just a matter of screwing the dome off and replacing the O-rings when reassembling. Also if your needing new oil cooler lines consider the Lasar oil cooler relocation kit. It comes with new lines and gets the lines away from the exhaust.
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They have been closed down several months due to illness. They hope to reopen sometime next year.
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If it's like most companies it will get them a promotion to the next level so the current manager doesn't have to deal with them.
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Check your email, you should have them.