MoonFlyer68

Due to my work, I am forced to take frequent 2 month breaks from flying my plane. While I know this is not the cheapest option, I use the Black Max to help protect my engine during these extended times that I can't fly. http://www.flyingsafer.com/p-n-2065.html

Let me make sure I am understanding some of these replies. If the engine has actually quit running running but the propeller is still spinning at a decent RPM, then starting with advanced throttle should be ok. It is only if the engine is not running and the prop is stopped or at a very low RPM that I should be worried about retarding the throttle first. Does that sound about right then? Would have been very nice if Mooney made that a little bit clearer when they wrote that caution about in flight restarts. This is why we come to Mooneyspace, to get the rest of the story.

By the way, what may also be of interest is that I am a retired Army Pilot and in the Military they really harp on making sure you know and understand all Warnings, Cautions, and notes. This being a Caution, really gets my attention.

I agree with both of you that if we are talking about an engine stumble that is about to quit because of fuel then of course switch tanks and get the fuel flowing again. The engine then "should" spring back to full song. I have also considered doing this up at altitude to get a feel for the event itself and get a better gauge of how accurate my fuel gauges are. My only hang up is IF the engine has actually quit. I know there are probably any number of variables that could be taken into consideration if this event ever happens. My only thought was by reading the POH the caution that if the engine actually quits, you should retard the throttle before starting to help prevent damage to the engine. I know the general answer is to "Check your POH" so if my engine has quit the POH tells me to retard the throttle first. From what I am hearing, it seems that most people just switch tanks and call it good no matter what the throttle is set at. Of course if that doesn't solve your problem, then you have to start trying other things. A buddy of mine and I both are fairly new owners the same model Mooney and so we had this discussion and thought we would find out what the "tribal Knowledge" had to say. Thanks for the input.

I am about to revive this old thread. Using the "Search" function, this was the best thread I could find that applied to my question. I have a 1968 M20F. There is no official In Flight Restart procedure in the POH. Looking at a later year F model the POH does have a specific checklist for In Flight Restart. I understand that if an engine is starting to stumble because of fuel starvation your very first priority needs to be restoring fuel to the engine. Hence, switch tanks is 100% the thing to start with. So here is where I have a question. If the engine has actually quit then is switching tanks still step one? My question is based on the caution that is in the POH for the M20F: CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to lose power or quit before switching fuel tanks. If a tank runs dry and the engine quits, retard the throttle before restarting. Restarting with an advanced throttle may cause engine overspeeding that can lead to mechanical malfunction. Based on that caution, it is my assumption that retarding the throttle should be step one if the engine has quit in flight before switching tanks. Am I reading this wrong? Do I want my engine to restart with WOT and possibly cause even worse problems? Appreciate your thoughts on the subject.

Yes I just saw the email not long ago. Looks like he did a great job with a bad situation. Anytime the engine quits in flight and you can walk away from it, that's a great landing in my book. Very glad he is ok.

After watching a short video (in German of course) I do not see much risk in using the TF1 and TF2 models. As I see it, this is just an electric hand hug. You are making all the turns by hand from the handle of the device. Obviously you do not want to "force" it to the stops and yank on it hard, but for normal use you should be fine. I use something sort of similar. I am still controlling the steering by hand but have an electric motor to assist with the push/pull of the aircraft. If it was one of the bigger models that actually lift the front gear and then mechanically forces it to turn then you could be in for problems. Here is a link to the one I use. https://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/robotow-heavy-duty-cordless-towbar-mooney.html

I have also been thinking about the possibility of the Electro-air switch panel wired in with a key that kills the mags. Like many others, I may be old fashioned but I like the security of having the key in my pocket before I touch the prop. As someone already stated before, if there is a broken wire even the key wont protect us from a hot mag.

Thanks for the feedback. I was not aware that 100LL could, under the right circumstances, turn into such a sticky mess. You are absolutely right about trying to clean it up. That stuff is a PITA. I will look more into the issue on my own when I get home to see what I can find.

On this subject I have a follow up question. During my last annual I had the 64 GAL system installed in my 68 M20F by a Mooney Service Center. What I have found is that if I top off the tanks and let the plane sit in my hangar for a few days I will come back to a small spot under the left wing at the front of the gear door. Now what is odd about this is the consistancy of what is there. It is VERY thick and sticky. It is not just a "Blue fuel stain". There is fuel in it I assume becuase it is blue, but because it is so thick there has to be something else there also. For now until I take it back to annual my answer is simply not to leave it with full tanks. If I take the family and some bags I am limited to 50 total gallons so that is what I am leaving the tanks at in the hangar. If I am going to fly and want more gas I just top off before I depart. I am not currently anywhere near the plane so no pictures, sorry. Any thoughts on what the issue may be? Any thoughts on what is making the spot so thick and sticky? Is it common (as someone with a 310 said) to not quite fill the baldders if the airplane will sit? Thanks.

While not installed in a Mooney, here is a really good video of the Skyview HDX in flight. Just to throw this out there if anyone from Dynon is listening, some sort of a simulator that you can access from a computer or IPad would be wonderful. https://youtu.be/Ea4HDOd2z1U

Looking for some input from you avionics shop guys that are in the know, are there any new updates to the possible timeline for the Mooney Dynon Autpilot approval? I just went throught the entire thread again and the last word was possibly end of Q2.

While I can not speak to thier accuracy, there are a couple LOP HP calculators in the download section of Mooneyspace.

While it is still my intention to hold out for the full Dynon autopilot for my M20F, I was not aware that the Skyview can talk to the TruTrak autopilot. Of course it is not able to drive the autopilot in NAV mode, but even limited integration is better than nothing.

The 30P does have the capabilty to show a traditional engine monitor, the 30C does not. Think of the 30C as a cluster gauge.

I am not sure exactly what all you are trying to do with the CGR-30C but you are correct that it can replace almost all your gauges. What it will not do is be an engine monitor in the traditional sense displaying the EGT and CHT of all cylinders full time in something like a bar graph format. From what I see with the 30C you will get a single CHT and EGT just like the current instumentation you have. Additionally, those units are special order. When you buy a new one you have to specify exactly what items you want displayed and the limits that you need for your specific aircraft and engine. Having said that, I am willing to bet there is a process for sending the unit back to EI for re-programming. I am not an avionics expert, just giving you a few things to think about before jumping in. EDIT: I should have paid closer attention to what Oregon87 said a few posts above. He laid out the differences of the 30P vs 30C and states that a used instrument can be reconfigured for your aircraft for a $695 fee.

Last annual I had my shop install the electric step kit. It works great and you can test it on the ground by turning on your beacon light. Now during my start up when I hit the beacon I listen for the electric step moving. I think it is a great set up and when I finally pull the trigger on my panel I will be able to remove the vacuum system and standby vacuum system. Who knows how much weight that will save!!!

Let me be clear that I am not looking to change my airplanes certificate, but that statement says the the airplane weight can't exceed 2,700 pounds NOT max gross weight. I see it as you would have to look at your empty weight. One place we might look for clarification would be ultralights and light sport. How do those regs read and are they looking at max gross or aircraft empty weight?

I did the initial course as well as a couple recurrent courses with them a number of years back when I was still in the Army. I think the most interesting recovery we did back then was an inverted spin recovery. That was insane. It is absolutly great training. The pilots there are top notch. The only one I can remember off the top of my head is Otter. I know you mentioned no cameras, but at least when I went through they had cameras mounted in and around the plane and you could get the video from them. Back then I think it was included in the price, may be different these days. Also from back then I think it was PUSH-POWER-RUDDER-ROLL-CLIMB. Things change of course. Probably worthwhile to go back again someday. Glad your having a great time and don't forget to use your boarding pass if you need it.

Thanks for the feedback Doc. I will buy one and give it a try. I honestly do not recall the size of the pin that was in there. This was some time ago.

Given that this thread has been resurrected, I have a question about those cotter pins. Is there a better option than the cotter pin? Not long ago I was working under the pilots instrument panel and apparently I somehow got my seat to go back past the cotter pin. I got into the plane to fly with a couple passengers and could not move the seat forward past it. Had to get everyone out of the plane, pull that pin to move the seat, replace the pin, and then could finally go flying. Is there something that would be better to prevent the seat from rolling back past where it is supposed to? Is there possibly something that is a little easier to remove and reinstall if required? Aircraft Spruce has these for the Cessna, has anyone tried this on our Mooney's? And the dreaded question, would it be legal? https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cessnaseatstop.php?clickkey=71314

Not only do I have an Avidyne IFD440 for my GPS navigator, but I also use an L3 Lynx NGT9000 for my ADS-B in and out. From everything I have seen it looks like neither box will talk to the GI275.

Typical of Garmin, did you notice that it only lists Garmin products for GPS source? I guess if you have Avidyne or some other system you are out of luck. I am still planning to wait for the Dynon autopilot approval and then install the full HDX system.

While it is still a very short list, the complete Dynon system including autopilot is approved for some certified airplanes. If memory serves the C-172 is approved as well as a few others. It is all on the website. I am not sure when they added it, but they are once again listing the Mooney as "in process" with an expected 2020 approval. They even added a progress bar next to it. Unfortunately the progress bar is only about 1/5 of the way there. Fingers crossed.

I love the N-number. LOL I will be doing something similar with my 1968 F when I get it repainted. The new number will be N6820F. "68" "20F"