KB4

Small display, but 275 will stream all Engine info real time to Garmin Pilot App not sure about FF.

No he has bladders.

Alpha aviation are good, go with those. But if cost is prohibitive, here is a set of plans found on Inner web. May need beefing up floor supports. @xcrmckenna knows how to weld so resources are out there for that part. https://www.kitplanes.com/do-it-yourself-aircraft-jacks/

5/8” fits perfect

Looking great. Old carpets seen better days. Excited for your progress and reveal. While you are in there, get rid of that insulation. Brown Aircraft has good quality insulation and shipped fast. Baggage door and compartment sides and headliner took a little more than 1 roll. I had Hector cut the long accent panel piece at 25 1/2”. So it’s 2 pieces that join now. Highly recommend that Mod. It allows the pilot side plastics AND accent panel or Left Px plastics to be removed without destroying the plastics every time that piece comes off for avionics work. Since the original left accent panel is connected to both plastics it has to come off of 1 to be able to get the plastics out. Check the mounting holes, probably bore out from years of pulling that piece off. Don’t reuse the upholstery clips, just contact cement accent panels. Keep and reuse clips for arm rests.

Maybe long shot, but Did you have one of these installed? If so, and happened while taxi, it’s sounds like the CO2 monitor to me.

Gary Jet Center was close enough drive. Nice FBO, KGYY was fast in and fast out, Class D, but didn’t seem too busy at all. Overnight hanger 35$

Creeper, step stool makes it easy going in and out during maintenance, rolling stool with tool caddy under. Harbor freight. Good dehumidifier—create your own dry climate.

Could be. Check manufacturer references to your engine type https://tempestplus.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Tempest_App_GuideV7.pdf

4 screws hold the flange, remove those and that eyeball assembly comes right out.

Yes, silicone lubricant, goof off pro makes quick work of old oily residue.

Got this back from manufacture for: When someone forgets to deflate after landing then tries to close door and causes small holes in bottom of seal. All you need to do is clean the damaged area with MEK or Toluene and then apply a liberal amount of Momentive RTV108 adhesive. Then use a small paint brush dipped in the MEK/Toluene and brush it out smooth. Let it cure for 24 hours. That makes a cold vulcanized adhesion and should last a long time.

I ordered from these guys http://www.aerographics.com. I like the cost of Cliffy machine better, but some placards may be easier to order

Walking Mooney encyclopedia Clarence is. Diagnose correctly from pics! Wow. And that has happened more than a few times. Lucky to have him and others here. Thanks guys.

On a press or new school, have talented MSer 3d print a 2” block, drill rod center hole, then on ends drill small pilot holes on top and bottom using old school connect the corners to find center. Then step drill up to whatever Correct size. Once you have 2 pilot holes, drill up next size on one side, then push bit thru tube till you feel the bottom pilot hole centering the bit inside the tube, hold drill at 90 and away you go.

Labor of love. Px with allergies, carpets and little yellow old insulation flakes got 86’d. Placard and floor bracket next

To the top left of new black insulation in pic

Welcome. I think main rule around here is “Pics or it didn’t happen,” so let’s see the 205.

Option #4–This https://switchboxcontrol.com/the-switch-box

Left and right defrost hoses. If old, (chances very good cause not easily accessible) they likely have holes. Check picks of avionics installs with glare shield and all avionics removed, you will see those 2 hoses I’m referring to. your IPC should show something like this

Such as?

I think your beef is with manufacturer and the sources’ familiarity with CG. Manufacturer sets Trim limits for TO for a reason. They give a range for a reason. If it was same setting for every TO, regardless of CG there would have been a notch not a range. Don’t waste your time sending photo, that was rhetorical. Trim Settings in a J even MSE should be adjusted according to CG. Not to say M drivers don’t find a sweet spot and use it, but how about MTOW, with big guys up front maybe something Manufacturer wants pilots to consider, or after TO you go thru some wind shear that makes the nose pitch up violently without warning or pilot input as AS bleeds off from Vy 90 to 70 in half a second, trust me, you don’t want to be fighting against CG or controls then. There isn’t time. I consider myself pretty good shape, had trim set for proper CG, and still had to push really hard to get nose down. We follow manufacturer guidance and when unexpected or expected happens are in best position to have success and safe fleet.

Silicone lubricant seems to work well and not leave black residue all along the rails. Double check the pins and cotters in left seat rails. Pin there and new cotter installed? Concerning they couldn’t do a quick google search “how to install Mooney seat”. Or think it’s okay to give it back with a bind. @Yetti absolutely no shame in learning everything you can about your Mooney. No one will take as good of care of your plane as you! You now know the right way AND know how to make adjustments. That’s more than that shop can say, and they are pros I know it’s avionics shop, but I’ve never seen a avionics install that didn’t have seats removed in beginning. These guys do this for a living, they should be embarrassed

If he gave you that flat advice “always on bottom” yes tell him he is wrong. Or you can tell the manufacturer they are wrong your choice. @ZuluZulu Since this Trim setting doesn’t apply to your J. yours must have different guidance on Trim Settings, show me! I’m very interested to see that, would you please take a pic. What’s different? My bet no pic the trim setting guidance IS exactly the same as yours.

Dude should have read the POH before teaching you that.