Culver LFA

Looks like the mounting bracket for an ADF sense antenna with the wire removed (and mounted backwards)? Normally found on the top of the fuselage with the wire going to the top of the vertical stabilizer. Maybe it’s being used as a cooling duct for the emergency gear extension crank.

The gear mechanism is attached to a bracket which is riveted to the pilots right (inner) seat rail, so it’s the panel directly below the front seats

This airspeed switch, and all the other electric gear components you could ever need are available as a complete kit in the classified section, get some quotes on that switch and then me make offer on the whole kit and caboodle!

That lever should not be floppy loose, sounds like it may be disconnected (either at the lever or under the belly at the actuator) or the cable itself is broken (which is unlikely as it is very under stressed). If you end up needing any electric gear parts, I know a guy that has the entire electric gear conversion kit for sale .

Use the private call sign/flight ID

Take a look at the FAA’s Privacy ICAO Address (PIA) program, it's really not difficult and registration can be completed in one day. The PIA program allows you to change your aircraft’s ICAO address to one associated only with the call sign, severing the link to your aircraft's actual registration. If you search my real N#, I haven't flown since the 4th of July. My ADSB-out no longer transmits my real N# but my private N# or flight ID, so someone can't easily put the pieces together without physically being at the airport with a radio and binoculars. If your neighbor could go to a free website and watch where you are going every time you drove your car, people would be irate over their freedom/privacy/etc being threatened. Why pilots are ok with free flight tracking and the FAA publicly publishing pilot/owner information I just can't comprehend... Sorry for the thread drift!

New owner could be flying with a private call sign/flight ID

Maybe Mooney should have got into the mask business, the trademark logo is probably their most valuable asset and it’s being used by others...

It’s been a while, if I remember correctly we ended up using a Spruce cable that has 1/2” housing and cut the window for the gear switch.

They’d still do, word on the street is that it’s 2 VFR and 2 IFR at a time. If you’re IFR and they don’t send you over the top it may be worth asking if VFR will shorten your trip (weather permitting).

I believe you misspelled “President”

@Browncbr1 the Surefly is timed at TDC and the ignition timing set with the dip switches inside the unit.

John, I just tried to measure mine at the flap release lever but it's too tight to get in there. Appears to be the same size as the parking brake cable piano wire which measures 0.0625"

If you’ve not travelled across this country by GA, you absolutely must do it. Don’t worry about weather, how long it will take, or how much it will cost, it will be worth it all. Stop in small town airports, visit with the locals and see the local sights and sounds. You’ll talk about that trip for years and you’ll dream about doing it again.

Updates are by SD card

I just updated mine with an update off of ebay, full update for $60 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174305674256?ViewItem=&item=174305674256

Going to have to get you guys signed up on the FB Culver Cadet group with all this Culver interest! The Cadet has a throttle interconnect to the gear preventing idle power with the gear still up. Throttle landing gear interlock .docx

It hurts to see Keith having so much fun with his Cadet, mine has been apart for a couple years now. When I had to re-engine the M20F the Cadet went down on the priority list! I can tell you Keith is an amazing guy and probably the most active Culver Cadet pilot in the USA!

There is over 10.5" of clearance between the prop tip and the ground, how big of a hole (or how soft of ground) are you guys operating out of? Keep it on the mains as long as possible, roll your trim full nose up/keep the yoke hauled back when taxiing, and then roll slow like you have an open ice tea in the cupholder, you'll be fine.

I’d love to see a picture of an E/F model properly installed. I spent a lot of time and effort when I installed my engine, w/new mounts, trying to get that sucker to line up better. It’s probably one of the most jacked up intake designs I’ve ever seen.

@RobertGary1 Aircraft Spruce East is showing Tuesday, June 2nd for availability now. In my past experience with Chief, the price is usually quite low compared to others but they do not stock the items so it's always a wait to get the part.

I use it in my prop. Im sure that I have an extra tube or two, let me know if you need one.

It’s possible that there is more effort due to the reduced handle/block clearance friction (where the old block was worn the new block is not), a shot of triflow on the top of the handle may help but this should really be corrected with proper adjustment. Sounds like the gear preload is set a little high, and while all should be checked this issue could be caused by only one of the four rods being adjusted too long. The final adjustments takes a fine touch, 1/2 turn of a rod end makes quite a difference in preload and down latching effort. If pushing the bar forward while engaging the down block helps, some minor adjustments may be needed.

Price reduction / Make offer! Joe@77O - 776 - 9OO7

Only hardware not included are pushrods, your pushrods will need to be shortened(main)/lengthened(nose) or replaced because the manual gear bellcrank mounts further forward than the electric gear bellcrank does. Probably 30 hrs, the tough part is where do you stop with the extras once you get started. I stripped/primed/painted all control and gear linkages. Super-cleaned and lubed all the rod ends. Removed old wiring that was from avionics shops long ago... I’d be happy to provide a detailed step by step to complete the conversion.