ArtVandelay

My 78 has strobes which were not OE, but remember the strobes must cover 360°.

Have to wonder if he declared emergency earlier at first sign of engine trouble would outcome been different? I think he first said he lost a cylinder, then he was losing oil pressure…then declared an emergency which I think the controller missed (pilot was relatively calm). RIP

My 14V breakdown is: 10A for all lights 12.5A for all avionics excluding AP, not counting radio transmissions. I figure 2.5A for autopilot and servos. So 25 amps, with 33Ah battery, that’s 1 hour with everything on, 2 hours shutting off lights and autopilot. If I was crossing large distances without landing options it would be a concern.

The G3 is gilding the lily, yes it’s brightest, but provides no additional benefit, the taxiway is clearly visible with Pros (and probably originals), it’s just more brilliantly lit, to the point where it’s washed out in the photo. I wonder how your night vision will degrade with such brightness. If you can’t see the taxiway without it being lit up like it would be at noon sun, you shouldn’t driving or flying at night.

I wonder how far @INA201 got?

No, they’re the same size, just have the wide flange. See picture above. P.S. My accounts were hacked, hence the alias.

Cars don’t have a problem with fuel evaporation at lower temperatures, why do planes (especially fuel injection engines)? Why do sticky valves (non rotating) would result in no ignition? i definitely have starting issues below 40°, I figure it was because I don’t have much experience here in south Florida.

I don’t like Savvy prebuys either, I’ve seen the squawks from one, a lot of minor nitpicking. If you are buying a plane you should have at least seen it in person and have taken a ride. I don’t need them to tell me about paint chipping, cracking leather, burned out landing light, etc Prebuy should consist of checking: 1.Corrosion (removal of interior panels and inspection panels required) 2.If engine isn’t a runout, engine condition. 3.Fuel tank leaking. What’s that, 6-8 hours of work? I can see the obvious and would ask the seller to demonstrate all aspects of the panel during test flight; especially autopilot and ADSB. Lights are trivial to check. I would never buy a plane that isn’t currently in annual, ready to fly, and I haven’t looked at it.

Volcano?

Aren’t most cracks hairline in width, even requiring dye penetrant to identify them? Not much stretching is needed to hide a crack until they’re close to failing.

I’m not sure what I said was insulting, certainly didn’t mean it. Yes, you can fly the same airspace, same approaches. Some additional functionality above a 6 pack: Situation awareness: maps, magenta diamond showing course with wind correction, waypoint information lookup, bottom of descent marker, TAS, OAT, display ADSB data (traffic, wx), etc. Yes, you can do some of this with FF/GP. Paired with appropriate AP and GPS fly holds, VNAV, approaches down to minimums. I didn’t say you need glass but I think most pilots who fly a glass panel long enough to be comfortable with it would want one in their airplane.

It doesn’t, generally draining a lead acid battery below 50% will shorten its life, so they artificially limit it’s useful amp-hours. The devil is in the details.

Okay, first saying that glass doesn’t provide any functionality over your old 6 pack panel is just silly. Maybe you meant you don’t want (to pay for) the additional functionality. Js have an upper top end, so that’s why I said you can recover more of your upgrade costs. This is true of any more modern models. There’s also a higher standard for the modern models, like no wing levelers….fully functional 2 axis autopilot is expected. Garrison probably could definitively tell us how much this is true.

Actually 33Ah.

I wigwag only the recognition lights, I left the wing taxi/landing lights alone because they still be needed for taxiing and landing. And how many blinking lights do you need?

The electrical loads for modern avionics are so low I wouldn’t bother except: Lights which have switches. Autopilot/electric trim which is already marked.

In either case you have 2 sources. It would be interesting to test how the human eye/brain reacts to one vs the other. In my case I have recognition lights (wigwag) in addition to 2 pairs of LED taxi/landing lights, if you don’t see me, you’re not looking.

I don’t know how a sticky valve can destroy an engine. If it sticks open and collides with the cylinder head the worst that can happen is the valve is broken and you’ll need to replace a cylinder. Liberal use of MMO on last flight before oil change can help clean the valve stems.

I don’t see why.

This discount applies when you sell. If this will be your forever plane, I would buy the J vs F, more likely to recover more of your upgrade “investments”. It would be interesting to get statistics of multiple Mooney owners, what models they bought first vs what they upgraded to.

It’s not whether the powder coating is stronger, it’s whether it stretches. If it does it will hide the cracks.

No way, not for a 6 cylinder turbo engine. Don’t forget the propeller.

I prefer the twinkling effect of them not being in synced.

Another ad that tries to convince you this C/E/F is nearly as good as a J. :-)

When I was looking, I tracked all Js for sale at various websites for months, which ones sold quickly, which ones didn’t. After a couple of months I could tell which ones were overpriced and wouldn’t sell and which ones were a good deal.