MB65E

I battled with high oil temp early on as well. I had seen it on other Es. The physics of keeping forced air through the cooler made sense to me so I installed it. It is listed as a plate in the text and not in the illustrated portion. I’ll try and get some better data from my airplane. Oil temps are never an issue for me. Best case would be for the oil cooler to have its own entry and exit air. Not robbing cooling air from the dog house or causing back pressure in the lower cowl. -Matt

I installed one on my E. Again the IPC is not very good. I think it helps, but no data. The physics make sense. attached is a highlighted picture of the IPC where it lists a “plate” for the E/F. -Matt

I noticed you are missing the air deflector installed on the aft side of the cooler. That helps keep air flowing through the cooler and down out the exits instead of back flowing by the cylinders. Also, check to make sure the correct gasket is on the oil pressure screen housing for which housing you are running. There are three different setups. Stock oil pressure screen housing, remote housing, and oil filter housing. I once installed the oil filter housing and I used the pressure screen gasket. That didn’t work too well. The IPC isn’t very good. I may have missed it but has The vernotherm been inspected? I see you have a fresh pacific oil cooler sticker on the cooler. They’ll test the vernotherm as well! Finally, I’ve sealed the front areas with silicone around gaps by the cooler and the cowl. Some have made air dams to trap the ram air into the cooler. Not advising, but I’ve seen it on several M20’s at OSH. -Matt

CP aviation in Santa Paula is alright. I have a friend with an S2A that is doing a lot of teaching. Sunrise Aviation is not what it once was. Chandler is good. Sean Tucker’s school has shut down to the public but will do personal training. He had a lot of international students so they just closed it temporally due to Covid. Greg Koontz has a nice bed and breakfast teaches in super D’s. hope that helps! I would recommend a better part of a week to have you both finished. It’s great training and will make you a much better pilot. -Matt

Look like just a fuel pressure line for the instrument panel. -Matt

They’ll fit in the hat rack too. I have a slim bag. Works great!! Two place airplane no matter what you do. Maybe a three place with only one set of clubs. now we just need to create more opportunities to go Fly and Golf!! Any takers for CA, NV, AZ? -Matt

I don’t think that would damage anything. You basically do the same thing during a flight control check. The Interconnect spring will just stretch. -Matt

Hopefully no one was hurt, but it all sucks. My airplane eats attitude indicators for breakfast. This logic of removing the vacuum system hasn’t worked out for me yet. I bet that old vacuum pump and old ADI would have lasted longer than the last three Electric ADI’s I’ve had the pleasure of seeing roll over. Scoff!!!! At least I’m a CB and bought a used Q340A. However, add the last three Attitude indicators could have added up to a really nice reliable something... Daytime VFR only...Might need a Luscombe or a Pitts! -Matt

I’ve Always used bonding straps on plastic buckets and grounded to the airplane. thoughts? -Matt

RE:AD yup- me too. Installed a unit earlier this year. One flight it rolled over pretty bad. Sent it to Sandia for repair of the board. Received an 8130 back. Installed the repaired unit. It’s still kinda vague in roll. Personally Elected not to fly IFR with it, then the AD yesterday confirmed my suspicion. -Matt

Thanks OR!! -Matt

I’ve had paint burnt of of trailing edges on a Lancair Legacy due to static. I then installed binding straps and static wicks to keep the paint on. Canopy was a major source of build up at speed. Ours would true at 315kts. :-) -Matt

Worked in a shop that we had a clean bucket specifically for dumping oil that owners wanted to save. Or maintenance that needed to be done. -Matt

Lycoming even has a service instruction letter on the entire topic. Worth a read every once in awhile. I’m going to start signing off oil changes IAW. SB480F. -Matt https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/SB480F Oil ServicingMetallic Solids Identification After Oil Servicing and Associated Corrective Action.pdf

Yes, new rivnuts are acceptable. I used the smallest you can find. I think I replaced all mine with #8 rivnuts. Makes for a nice clean install with all of the screws the same size. -Matt

Bias fiberglass cloth? Or carbon? -Matt

Dang, 5261 is correct! I goofed the link! 63 didn’t have the matching Mil spec. 5261 does! good stuff -Matt

This stuff is the best!!!! Its kinda hard to find. I really like it. Zipchem D5263. Kragen sells it too. https://zipchem.com/Pages/optional-backgrounds/d5263.htm smells great too!! -Matt

I have never run a straight weight oil in a turbocharged engine. Even for brake-in. My next turbo engine brake in I plan on using the Phillips 20/50. -Matt

Probably the prettiest E I have seen in a long time. -Matt

Hi Tom! I remember when you mentioned him passing. Sounds like an awesome man. All of what you mentioned sounds like a normal E to me. I only have about 300hrs in ours. However, your numbers are about what I see. You were up high, so your indicated AS may have been lower. 10.5k is about as high as I ever go and there needs to be a reason to go that high. With the higher Cruise altitude and the 3 blade prop I’d say you are still doing awesome with your 153k average. I can get 156-157 TAS out of mine but that’s WFO and at lower altitudes burning more gas and making more noise than I prefer to listen to on a longer trip. Always seems no matter how fast we think we go the GS is always just below 150k. I think you solved the CHT issues. I run mine 75-100 Rop too. Little bit of baffleing love goes a long way. Looks like a really nice airplane!! -Matt

I was just going to say SBAS! RNP w/RF legs too. Several approaches like that are starting to pop up. Reno and SMF have a few neat Approaches. -Matt

Permetex ultra black I have found works better than most fuel tank sealants. You could clean everything really well then apply a bead to the case halves. Check the inside of the flywheel to make sure it’s not the crank seal. Also, go around and torque all of the 1/4in hardware along the case halves. Don’t over torque them, just give them all a squeeze. Check all of the oil drain back lines for tightness. Most likely it’s probably a case stud that is leaking. I removed several of my case studs and applied anaerobic Loctite with new studs. When a case is overhauled, I don’t think the studs are ever changed. Over time they stretch and no longer seal properly. There is no sealing mechanism for the smaller studs. Oil pan gaskets are often suspect as well. One could apply the same principles to the oil pan. Overall, your 20 year seals are deteriorating. -Matt

What issues are you having? -Matt

Hi Charles. Use 43.13 guidance. Look up some YouTube videos of where kitfox ELTs are. If your kitfox has the aft baggage with the glass doghouse you could mount it inside the rear turtle deck as long as it was not blocked by metal. Any fairing on the top side of the airplane could be used for the ELT mount. -Matt