Andy95W

Holy crap, you must've used that line a lot! How are you gonna spin it to get the paint job done?

Yes, but... It is probably safer than flying a poor ILS approach where the localizer needle is swinging back and forth like a metronome. This to me is where a GPS (not an iPad) provides excellent situational awareness- primarily as it regards wind correction/crab angle.

Does it matter that nobody is making money off of this, or doesn't that matter in a case like this?

"Chew, if only you could see what I've seen with your eyes." -Roy Batty

To me, the annoying/frustrating thing is the difference between how long you think it should take vs. how long the job actually is. One bolt, one piece of safety wire, flush the screen- should be about 5-10 minutes. When I started budgeting 1 hour my frustration level went way down (and it really only takes about 20-30 minutes).

You win!

I went ahead and "liked" the OP just for successfully pissing off Peter!

After looking at your diagram, I agree it's not a chafed wire finding a ground. Your ground is always on, so the switched side must be from power. [On older models (like mine), power is applied at one side of the horn and switches etc. give it a ground to activate. Evidently newer airplanes were the opposite.] I'm going to guess it is the diode 21WE05A, but if one's bad, the other is probably too. First I would isolate the throttle switch by disconnecting the end that supplies power to the horn. Using your voltmeter, make sure the switch makes contact at an appropriate location as you move the throttle. Though rare, I've seen bad new switches or ones that looked right but were installed slightly off so the switch activated incorrectly. If the throttle switch works correctly, then either a different switch is supplying power when it shouldn't or a diode is bad and allowing current to flow backwards when it shouldn't. Either way, it's a tedious process of working step be step until you find the culprit- but you will, in the end. Good luck, keep us posted.

There really isn't any such thing as "an aircraft type electrician". There are A&Ps that are good at wiring and there are A&Ps that aren't. Its really pretty simple: your buzzer is getting power and ground at times when it shouldn't. Using the schematics, trace from the ground backwards through the circuit until you get to a voltage source. On the diodes, current only flows in one direction, so the electrons will flow from the ground through the diode in the direction that the triangle points. Check each piece of wire and switch until you find your culprit. My guess is that if it isn't a diode, then you have a chafed wire that is making its own ground.

When it dies. Nice thing about STEC autopilots is they don’t need no stinking vacuum to keep the wings level and to hold altitude.

When?

If you need 3" extensions, I think I'd just make a 'T' out of two short pieces of 2x4, drill a couple of holes in each leg of the T, and use 3 hose clamps (each pedal) to hold them on. Since they're not really attached, it's not even an alteration.

Good luck with the multi- training. In getting your new rating, you'll notice the irony In how much time you spend flying around with only one engine in your new twin!

If you are an A&P, or are going to be working closely with an A&P, and you're willing to invest a lot of man hours, then this could be a way to get a decent airplane and defer a lot of the upgrade cost to the future. Or you could take out a loan and buy the $55k M20C like Paul mentioned above, pay the interest, and defer the upgrade cost to the future. Either way you'll spend about $70,000 for a $55,000 airplane. The second way requires less time from you, but you won't know the airplane as well when you're done with it.

I'm just gonna go ahead and be contrary for a bit. (Not about oversquare- I think that's ridiculous- try telling a 252 owner not to operate oversquare.) My answer (and the way I always taught students) was that it depends on factors like smoothness and temperatures. I'll use my M20C as an example, and I just flew it today and checked some numbers. After climbing past the altitude of the impossible turn, I do pull rpm back a bit for vibration and noise reasons. My airplane seems to like 2500-2600 rpm, depending on how it's feeling that day, so that's what I do. For manifold pressure, it depends mostly on OAT. Today was 85°F OAT, and at 115-120 mph, my hottest cylinder was #4. All knobs full forward, 27"/2700, #4 was about 402°. At about 25"/2550, it was 388°. Guess what- I climbed out at about 25 square- for the reasons noted above. Fuel injected engines are a bit different, in that the way fuel is metered is much more linear than for a carburetor. So again, it depends. Other airplanes don't have a full engine monitor, so you only know one CHT (and depending on conditions, it may not be the hottest). So again, it depends. And somebody is probably going to point out that at less than full throttle, I'm losing the benefits of the economizer circuit that provides additional fuel. I'll just say that the carburetor adds fuel to keep CHTs below the redline of 500°, and in the green arc on the M20C of below 460°. No thanks. The laws of thermodynamics are pretty straightforward- more power = more heat.

I wonder if @kortopates can effectively analyze this...

First thing I'd try (CB option) is pictured below. Plug it into your headphone jack on your panel, plug your headphones in one side and a 1/4" input connected to your audiobooks device. Everyone who is on your circuit (all/crew/isolate) will be able to hear your book. It becomes simply another input to your audio circuit (like listening to 2 com radios at the same time.) If you buy 2, you can have your audiobook and everyone else can listen to a music device in crew or isolate mode.

A lot of "older" mechanics still remember when Tempest bought the old Autolite/Unison line of spark plugs (that's why all the designations start with a "U".). Quality back then was definitely substandard compared to the Champions. A lot of those mechanics assume that the substandard quality continues to this day, and they assume that transfers to the filters as well. Too bad they don't realize the tables turned and the Champions are now generally worse than the Tempests.

It's good if you can talk over the NOTAM with someone who's done the arrival before, it's even better if you can take them along in the right seat the first time you do it. Either way, good luck and have fun!

Keep working at it, sometimes it's a matter of finding the right bending and twisting of shoulders/elbows/wrists.

The original radios were installed as OEM equipment from the factory, too. All of that stuff is optional per the Type Certificate Data Sheet (TCDS). Your A&P should know how to check that document, and you should have a downloaded copy as well.

Your A&P is either incredibly new or incredibly old. Either way, the EGT is not required equipment.

Flare with flair, unless you're from Joisey...

1/4" drive 12-point socket, plus a 12" and 3" extension. And it has to be a 12-point socket. The 6-point has too much wall thickness, believe it or not.

Believe me, Anthony, I know. I've forgotten the pilot side fuel cap... twice! I was lucky enough, both times, to find it. The copilot side is easy to remember because on the smaller fuel tanks it's right next to your foot as you get in. For the pilot's side, I now put the cap on the cowling where I'll see it as I sit down and visually clear the area around the prop before engine start. I hope I'm still on MooneySpace when the younger guys like Mike and Alex get old enough to start forgetting shit too.