Andy95W

Umm, doesn't your number do the same thing- N6776N?

Good point, Bob, thanks for pointing that out. Perhaps the "Out" portion of the GDL is disabled since he has the 330ES. My understanding of the regs is that, as with transponders, you may have more than one installed but could not transmit on both simultaneously.

What's the point of having "dual out" capabilities? That's the first thing that seems kind of weird to me. Once you get the configuration set up correctly, I'd pull the breaker for the GDL-88 when you do your test flights. And then consider removing it and selling it.

Bob's cowling started as an ARI, didn't it? Maybe your cowling is comparable to the ARI in aerodynamics. Another reason I can think of is that as airspeed goes up, so does drag across the entire airplane. The cowling mod might save a bunch of drag, but when the rest of the airframe is already generating more drag because it's already 5 knots faster, it's just not going to make the same difference. Just my $.02, I don't have any real proof.

Alex, I would use whatever was least expensive for the belly strobe. That is the one that keeps you legal but honestly doesn't help much if you're being overtaken by another airplane in the traffic pattern. For the top I would use white, but I would put a piece of aluminum tape on the forward edge so that it would keep the light from illuminating the cockpit and wings. You can probably experiment with some duct tape right now before you install the new one. Again, the belly strobe keeps you night legal, the tail strobe you can do whatever you want. During taxi, I would then keep the tail strobe off as a courtesy to others, and turn it on when you taxi onto the run way.

You dang kids with yer emojis and acronyms. Please explain UWOF. My knowledge doesn't go much beyond WTF.

Forget what I said- probably best just to call LASAR!

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/uchannel.php?clickkey=43585 I'd get the 05-01600, looks like its $1.42 per foot. You could replace both sides so you wouldn't have to try to paint it to match. Use 3M super weatherstrip adhesive (from an auto parts store) to glue it on.

I wouldn't change a thing, so long as everything else is normal. I'd much rather have 5 psi high than 5 psi low.

There’s gotta be a witty reply to this...

And when you do, you no longer have to comply with the shaft AD. Worth the slight extra cost.

I ain't sayin' nothin' lest I become the next member of the club.

Ken, I agree with your analysis, but I also thought it came across as gloating- particularly on a board dedicated to Mooney Pilots. (And I'm very sure I've got more multi-engine hours than you have, so I'm all the more sure that you're right, just not your tone.)

I love that Sunbeam Tiger in British Racing Green!! I haven't seen one of those in a long time!

At 17,000 he would have to a turbo. His engine gauge is also showing TIT, if I'm seeing it correctly.

You're a lucky man, Ned!

I'm still not sure I would make that assumption.

Ummm... Maybe?

Aerobat- you don't have to go through an avionics shop. There are inexpensive UAT solutions that your A&P/IA can install at your next annual, probably for about 10-15 hours of labor, less if you're willing to remove and install your interior yourself. Even Garmin has a UAT out solution that they'll sell outside of the dealer network. And a new transponder/altimeter check shouldn't be required, since it's an electrical connection, not pneumatic. And a decent avionics shop would just roll that into the overall quote. The problem is finding an IA that likes doing electrical work and has the time to work with you.

It's good to hear this about LASAR. I bet Paul and Shery Loewen are glad their shop is in good hands.

Evidently us vintage guys have to stick together.

If you can't get Varsol, regular Mineral Spirits is a decent alternative and readily available at Lowes, Home Depot, etc.

I'll add one more that I've seen a few times: Delusional. I've seen owners who were convinced their airplanes were worth FAR more than they actually were, and firmly believed that everyone who offered them what the airplane was actually worth were trying rip them off.

It looks like Candy Man has an M20C, so the issue of 20° timing doesn't apply to him. As to resale value: after 500 Hours since overhaul, I'd say absolutely no difference where your overhaul came from. Less than 100 hours, you might sell for a bit more with a factory new or factory overhaul- but not enough to make up for what you pay. The Lycoming O-360 in the M20C is simple and about as bullet-proof an engine as any. I'd trust (nearly) any shop to overhaul it well. It might be a good idea to ask the shop about camshaft and lifter spalling, and ask for recommendations. The Lycoming parts seem to be hit or miss, but they might know of PMA alternatives like Superior that have fewer problems.

Dang, that's pretty slick!