Andy95W

My first Mooney was modified to allow a Curtis drain valve instead of the plunger assembly. I've seen others that were modified in a similar manner. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an914.php http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/curtisquickdv4.php?clickkey=3008616

Andrew- It depends on the type of operation. Since the Cessna Caravan is a single pilot aircraft, you wouldn't be doing work, per se, so compensation wouldn't be a factor. Our FAA has determined, in the past, that flight time itself is compensation. Therefore, if you were logging the flight time you would be in violation as a private pilot.

The FAA has busted people for this in the 30 years I've been flying. @yankele - consider going to an airline (or any other flying job) interview and having to explain why you have a violation on your record. Taking shortcuts is for amateurs. Commercial pilots are supposed to be professionals. Any scheme you can think of has already been tried and ultimately shut down- otherwise everyone would still be doing it.

I used to own an Aztec with a full set of nickel cylinders. I was very happy with all 12 of them. Worth the money, IMO.

I think we've all learned that a far more effective method is to deny the facts, blame everyone else, and then double-down on the denial. Works like a charm!

You can't flood an M20C with just the fuel pump. All you'll do is fill the carburetor bowl until the carb's float valve stops the flow into the carburetor. The problem with the M20C when it gets really cold- say below 25° or so- is fuel atomization. The accelerator pump shoots gasoline up into the induction system but not enough of the gas vaporizes to suck into the cylinders so the spark can light it off. Pumping the throttle while cranking helps this to a certain degree because it increases the chances that some of those airborne droplets will be sucked into at least one cylinder and ignited. If that still doesn't work, you're going to have to preheat. Warm metal will entice the fuel to vaporize.

$7.99 at Lowes and it seals better than factory. Clean off the old glue first.

I've seen a few Bonanza seat backs broken for the exact same reason.

I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of that! That may be more than you see together at OSH.

At least it's not a poorly designed men's room.

+1 18 years of Mooney ownership and I've been getting in/out this way the entire time. I never even thought about it until I read this thread.

I thought we'd settled this once and for all back in 2012?

When Bruce Jaeger showed me, it was one on each side. You would only need to buy one sweep, though, and just cut it in half.

I was going to post that Bruce Jaeger showed me the same sweep idea when I met up with him in Willmar... ...but then I noticed that you have one of Bruce's interiors. Very nice!

Yes

IIRC, the dual mag only came with the knurled knob type p-leads that insert into the case of the mag. In that case, since your aircraft p-lead and also your test p-lead don't work, I'd check where the p-lead screws into the case. That will ensure that something isn't in there shorting the contact or the p-lead to the case.

I used MEK on a wire brush. It helps if you use an old, cheap paint brush to brush it on first, let it sit a while, then use the wire brush to scrape it. That will get 80% of it off. After that, I used lacquer thinner on a red scotch brite pad to get the rest off. A few important points: -MEK is carcinogenic and might make you grow a 3rd testicle or something. Don't get it on your skin and definitely use eye protection, especially when using the wire brush. -put something down on the wing and windshield to protect it from the chemicals -you should probably remove your interior door panels so the MEK and lacquer thinner don't damage them.

3M yellow super weatherstrip adhesive. Available at most auto parts stores and probably Walmart.

For my part, sorry I misunderstood. I agree, I wish there was a show like the old “Sky King”. It might help bring some new folks into GA.

I'll attach a better photo, then. The spring is 9” long and 1/2" diameter. The lower bracket I made out of 1/8” aluminum, and I attached it with the existing screw and one additional sheet metal screw. The upper bracket I fabricated out of thin stainless sheet. When I bought the spring at the local hardware store, I got the plastic bushings to fit inside the ends. The only downside I've encountered is that if you lean way in and happen to bump the spring, the baggage door will drop onto your head. It only happened to me twice before I learned to be more careful!

I was just getting ready to make a new topic myself titled, "My $8 Door Seal". It works great, certainly more quiet than the old factory one I pulled out. With two packages, you have enough to do the baggage door, too. I really wanted to get the Bob Fields inflatable for about $450, and I still may do that. The Aircraft Door Seal is pricy and gets some average to poor reviews here. The GeeBee price was never specified, which annoyed me, but my guess is between $250-300 based upon the Bonanza ones out there by them. For my $16, I'll replace it every few years if necessary or replace it with something else and never look back. @Piloto advocated for something very similar, but it doesn't seem to be available anymore. I used his original idea and found this stuff, which may be even better.

Yeah, Chris. That really looks tacky.

Scott, the exact show you're describing already exists. It was carried generally on PBS and they did 81 episodes. You can buy the DVDs. @KSMooniac already mentioned it.

I don't have one, but I don't think this the case. Their website says it displays vertical guidance (LPV and ILS) and the picture shows it like this:

Been there, done that! The joys of Oshkosh- now less than 4 months away!