M20J speed mods, windshield, and paint thread

[jetdriven]

So the time is approaching to completely refit our M20J's exterior and do a full repaint. As we have posted on here, the first trip we took with it resulted in hail damage on the elevators and ailerons. Plus the paint is a few years old and needs refreshing.

 

Sounds like a perfect opportunity to put a bunch of LASAR drag mods on the machine, stick in a new windshield, and lay on a fresh coat of paint.  I am soliciting ideas and experiences that have dealt with the following LASAR mods: horizontal tail fairing, dorsal fin with seal, wheel well liners, cabin door pin kit, wing root fairing, and aileron gap seals.  Also looking for advice on changing out the old windshield for a new one, ours has light crazing.

[1964-M20E]

I'd skip the aileron gap seals. They prevent you from being able to effectively get corrosion X into the ailerons.

Do the windshield and all windows before paint at the shop of your choice or the paint shop which ever you feel comfortable with.

[rbridges]

are those mods worth a lot on a J model?  I thought it was already cleaned up pretty well.

[Bennett]

I suggest that you consider mounting an ELT. 406, in the dorsal fin before painting the airplane. Also a good time to move VOR ,blades, into the wing tips I didn't think you will get any speed out of the wheel liners or wing root fairings, although they improve and modernize the looks. Have fun with you project

[Bennett]

The door pin is very worthwhile in my experience.

[Marauder]

Byron - I'm at the same place you are. For the hail damage issue, PM me, I have vetted this and can send you the info on who does it and what to expect.

Thanks for starting this. I'm interested in this topic as well.

[Bennett]

The major speed gains (my experience - may be different for others) for the M20J come from four areas: The LoPresi cowl, with its great Ram Air box system, overlapping nose gear doors, fairings behind the nose doors, and windshield fairing, a Powerflow exhaust system, a one piece belly pan (consider hiding some antennas by mounting them upside down on the pan), and a two bladed Scimitar prop. Lots of expense for all of these, but you should get some noticeable speed gains from them. Both my current Mooney, and the previous one had all the minor mods, but while in the total they might have added a knot or two, no one of them seemed to make much difference. Don't "stack" the advertised mod speed increases as some advertise. LASAR does great mods, but choose wisely. By the way, The PowerFlow system adds some costs at annual time as some parts require periodic maintenance. Not a deal breaker, but not cheap either. The basic 201 (especially the later versions) are already fairly well cleaned up, and it is hard (and expensive) to make incremental increases in speed. The esthetics and the pleasure of having them is another matter. Personally, a really great paint job brings the most satisfaction.

[N601RX]

I'm currently doing a 1/4" 201 STWA windshield, 1pc belly, flap and aileron gap seals.  There isn't much to installing the aileron gap seals, but the flap seals require more work.

[jetdriven]

Aesthetics are a major part of the mods. Our 1977 201 has the old style dorsal fin, short, wide, and round on top with the gap at the rear. The wing root fairings really finish the look of the plane. The wheel well liners are supposed to add a knot, I am neutral on them, but they do appear to keep rats out.  The cowling, prop, and powerflow exhaust are out I'm afraid. If we have that kind of money, we are looking for an IFR GPS.

 

Also looking to put on the fiberglass flat lower gear doors, like Testwest and KSMooniac.

 

What do you think of this layout and colors, minus the "A" on the tail?  Hot? I kinda like that split scheme, the solid red tail, and that bold black stripe on the side.

http://www.myjetreview.com/html/10-mooney-acclaim.html

[jetdriven]

Unless you are just doing it for aesthetics, Byron, save your money on the mods.  I'd put it into a new windshield and/or windows instead.  Now is also a great time to get rid of your ram air if you are still so equipped, and to replace all of your external hardware with new. 

 

As far as the 406 mhz ELT is concerned, hasn't there been some discussion lately about abandoning the ELT requirement as superfluous in the post ADS-B environment?  If that comes to fruition our old 121.5 units might get us through until then.

 

Oh, and get your avatar back up and running, please.  I miss it. 

 

Jim

Im struggling on the 406 ELT. I am definately wanting to put the ELT antenna under the fin, another reason to get it. 

We are replacing all the external hardware, and putting nutplates or rivnuts in all the stripped out sheet metal screws in the tail gap fairings and wing root fairings.

[rbridges]

I like it.  I think any new paint jobs makes a plane stand out.  

[John Pleisse]

B- All of these combined could yield four knots on it's best day. Best bang for the buck? I did wing root fairings and flap gap and aileron seals. I saw modest gains and my MSC IA says mine is faster than most (for what it's worth). The owner before me did a 3/8 inch windscreen and was horribly crazed. It made flying into direct sunlight a hazard. I had it polished and it did wonders, especially saving $4k for a new w/s. Windscreen mods mitigate noise, not help with speed. Lastly, if you got a big insurance check that didn't go to the engine already, I'd consider replacing hail damaged control surfaces (even salvage). I can't see how bondo processes could be relied upon long term. Main fuselage, sure, but no fillers on control surfaces. My $.02.

[jetdriven]

We are replacing the ailerons and elevators.

[Bennett]

The flat main gear doors are a plus.

[N601RX]

Does the early J's already have the calipers on the front of the wheel?

[Jeff_S]

Quote: Also looking to put on the fiberglass flat lower gear doors, like Testwest and KSMooniac.

 

Where do these come from? Having just spent WAY too much money with LASAR to replace both inner gear doors with their refurb units, hopefully my problem is solved for awhile. But just in case, I'm always looking for other options.  (BTW, this is not a knock on LASAR. They provided good service and their refurb models seem reasonably priced. But once you factor in the cost to paint and pay the A/P to re-install (once for each side!) it got to be close to $1AU per door...ouch.)

[Bennett]

LASAR and gear doors: On my prior Mooney, Paul and I worked out a three door system that completely enclosed the retracted gear. For a while, I believe the factory did a similar system on

some of their newer Mooneys. I don't recall if LASAR did an STC for these, or if it was done via a 337 form. No matter what, it was a very slick execution, and I never had any problem with

those gear doors. The reversal of brake calipers seems to be a very common mod on the west coast, and it was done on both my Mooneys. The flat doors were on my current Mooney when I bought

her, and I think they are fiberglass, but I would have to check.

[Marauder]

We are replacing the ailerons and elevators.

 

One solution offered to me for the elevators was to flip them and switch sides. Made sense, how many times are you going to have someone see the underside of an elevator.

 

For the ailerons, I got pricing ranging from $1200 to $1500/each to reskin. You got a better deal? BTW -- Lasar offered me replacement elevators and ailerons for $6,900.

[fantom]

"I purchased a set of new lower gear doors of my 201's original variety from MAC (through Dugosh) about five years ago when MAC was downsizing"

 

Jim...may be time to make molds of those gear doors so we can fabricate unapproved, but very strong fiberglass lower gear doors.

 

The flat doors are fiberglass, at least they were for later J's.

 

Please tell us more about that door pin worthwhile experience. Bennett.

[Bennett]

Gary,

This is a very simple passive pin system. The pin itself is in the upper front section of the door frame, and there is a receptacle for it mounted in the matching front side

of the door. At high speed the lowered air pressure on the door tends to suck it outwards, and the pin stops it. Less noise, and keeps the door tight in the frame. I came

across this mod at an AOPA convention in Palm Springs. They were selling it for Cessna 210s and Mooneys. LASAR installed it for me.

[OR75]

cost of those mods buys a lot of avgas. go ROP and get the few knots you want !!! granted it is not as fun as making mods.

sorry, i could not resist.

[Bennett]

Gary, I did a bit of checking, and the pin kit is available with a Mooney part number. (Sorry, but I don't have it available at the moment). The kit runs about $260, plus tax, and

installation. I had it on my earlier Mooney, liked it, and then pretty much forgot about it. I called Dan at LASAR, and had him put away the one unit he had in stock for me. I'll have it

installed when I bring her up to LASAR for the next oil change - about a week or two from now. The 261 conversion was much faster (in the flight levels), and I noted a difference the first

time I flew her after installation. Not at all sure how it will be effective on a J, but I believe it will prove useful.

[Steve Dawson]

Gary,

This is a very simple passive pin system. The pin itself is in the upper front section of the door frame, and there is a receptacle for it mounted in the matching front side

of the door. At high speed the lowered air pressure on the door tends to suck it outwards, and the pin stops it. Less noise, and keeps the door tight in the frame. I came

across this mod at an AOPA convention in Palm Springs. They were selling it for Cessna 210s and Mooneys. LASAR installed it for me.

By any chance Bennett would you have a picture of it and it's location?

Thanks,  Steve

[Bennett]

I don't have a photo of the pin mod on my prior Mooney. When I have it installed on my J, I will post photos. As I recall, it protruded about 3/4 of an inch, and had a

rounded, bullet like nose. Never had a problem with it aligning with its mating hole. "The pin itself is in the upper front section of the door frame, and there is a

receptacle for it mounted in the matching front side of the door."

[TWinter]

Aesthetics are a major part of the mods. Our 1977 201 has the old style dorsal fin, short, wide, and round on top with the gap at the rear. The wing root fairings really finish the look of the plane. The wheel well liners are supposed to add a knot, I am neutral on them, but they do appear to keep rats out.  The cowling, prop, and powerflow exhaust are out I'm afraid. If we have that kind of money, we are looking for an IFR GPS.

 

Also looking to put on the fiberglass flat lower gear doors, like Testwest and KSMooniac.

 

What do you think of this layout and colors, minus the "A" on the tail?  Hot? I kinda like that split scheme, the solid red tail, and that bold black stripe on the side. Mooney_AcclaimS-3.jpg

http://www.myjetreview.com/html/10-mooney-acclaim.html

I'm diggin' the paint scheme...Oh yeah, it's kinda like mine..Good choice