TKS Filter Change Assistance

[BrianL29]

Hello all,

I am trying to change my TKS filter on my 1996 M20M FIKI Bravo but having a difficult time removing it.  There is very little space to get a wrench on the bolt head.  I haven't removed the lines yet, but I don't think that will help.  I tried to remove the nuts from the battery compartment, but the bolts just spun of course.  I just wanted to see if anyone has any tips before i go back at it.  Should I try to change it with the filter in place? I don't know how much thread engagement there is on the top bolt to the bottom housing.  thanks!

[alextstone]

There is a safety wire that needs to be cut...

[BrianL29]

I was trying to remove the 2 bolts which attach the filter housing to the wall in order to remove it. Based on your comment maybe I can just loosen that bolt and drop the bottom of the housing. 

[GeeBee]

It is a B-Itch. I wish I could give you some advice and the only thing I can say is buy a full box of band-aids.

 

[BrianL29]

31 minutes ago, GeeBee said:

It is a B-Itch. I wish I could give you some advice and the only thing I can say is buy a full box of band-aids.

 

Thanks for the straight talk. Sounds like you've done it.  Do you remove the entire filter housing from the plane or change the filter in place?

[Scottknoll]

I did this with my A&P last year. If I recall properly, there is a spring inside and when you loosen that single bolt in the center on the top the entire canister separates from the top cap. That bolt goes all the way to the bottom of the canister can screws in at the bottom. It wasn’t hard, but getting a socket/wrench on there was a bit of a pain. Was worth changing, mine was a bit browned. No record of any previous owner changing it. Just be careful of the spring to make sure it goes back together the same way with new o-rings. My filter came from cav with new o-rings.

[BrianL29]

40 minutes ago, Scottknoll said:

I did this with my A&P last year. If I recall properly, there is a spring inside and when you loosen that single bolt in the center on the top the entire canister separates from the top cap. That bolt goes all the way to the bottom of the canister can screws in at the bottom. It wasn’t hard, but getting a socket/wrench on there was a bit of a pain. Was worth changing, mine was a bit browned. No record of any previous owner changing it. Just be careful of the spring to make sure it goes back together the same way with new o-rings. My filter came from cav with new o-rings.

Thanks. I'll attack it that way.  I have the filter/o-rings from cav.  I'm mostly worried about threading the safety wire back in after completion.  

[GeeBee]

2 hours ago, BrianL29 said:

Thanks for the straight talk. Sounds like you've done it.  Do you remove the entire filter housing from the plane or change the filter in place?

I pulled the entire thing because I knew I could not get it saftied without doing so.

[NickG]

How much was the new filter?

[Patrick Horan]

Well, that is something that ill keep track of. I didn't realize there was a replaceable filter!! looking at my logs, I don't see a recent history of mine being replaced/

[BrianL29]

Filter and seals were $400 I believe.  They say to replace every 2 years. 

Edited December 30, 2024 by BrianL29

[Scottknoll]

How much was the new filter?

It was $370 plus ~$25 shipping a year ago. I think the ICA calls for it to be changed every 2 years.

[NickG]

On 12/28/2024 at 9:29 AM, Patrick Horan said:

Well, that is something that ill keep track of. I didn't realize there was a replaceable filter!! looking at my logs, I don't see a recent history of mine being replaced/

Me neither!

[Fly Boomer]

On 12/28/2024 at 11:29 AM, Patrick Horan said:

Well, that is something that ill keep track of. I didn't realize there was a replaceable filter!! looking at my logs, I don't see a recent history of mine being replaced/

From the AFM Supplement:

3. De-icing Fluid Filter
Normally, the de-icing fluid filter element should be changed at 1200 hours or 2 year intervals. However, the filter element may require changing at more frequent intervals, depending on service conditions and fluid handling equipment when operating in localities where there is an excessive amount of sand and dust.
 

[BrianL29]

If you get a high pressure alarm that is an indication the filter needs changed.  I am getting a high and low pressure alarm at the same time.  My system clearly has some issues I’m working through. 

[BrianL29]

Successful.  I ended up replacing the filter and seals with the housing in place.  I couldn't get a wrench on the bolt heads to remove the housing completely, and I would have needed a helper to hold the nuts.  There was a lot of brown/orange residue inside the bottom of the bowl. Definitely needed changed.       

[hypertech]

On 12/29/2024 at 6:09 PM, BrianL29 said:

If you get a high pressure alarm that is an indication the filter needs changed.  I am getting a high and low pressure alarm at the same time.  My system clearly has some issues I’m working through. 

I'll have to check my paperwork but I'm 95% sure that's what CAV told me to do.  Leave it alone and replace it on condition when you get a high pressure alarm.  Otherwise, the filter is working fine and its better not to touch it.