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Posted

As Scott indicated. There is actually two, one for gear down and one for gear up. The gear down is furthest aft and will be obvious if looking at it with gear down. 

Posted
2 hours ago, kortopates said:

As Scott indicated. There is actually two, one for gear down and one for gear up. The gear down is furthest aft and will be obvious if looking at it with gear down. 

I'm confused, you say it is as Scott indicated, in the belly, but obvious if looking at it with the gear down, so is in in the nose, right mail, left main or under a belly panel that needs to be removed?

Posted

Belly panels will need to be removed... the two in the middle IIRC, but I have a J and not an E.  The retract rods are the really longish tubes running fore/aft that translate the actuator movement into gear movement on each side.  I believe the pilot side rod will have the two paddles clamped on the rod, and these paddles hit the limit switches for up and down to stop the actuator at the appropriate point.

Posted
10 minutes ago, KSMooniac said:

Belly panels will need to be removed... the two in the middle IIRC, but I have a J and not an E.  The retract rods are the really longish tubes running fore/aft that translate the actuator movement into gear movement on each side.  I believe the pilot side rod will have the two paddles clamped on the rod, and these paddles hit the limit switches for up and down to stop the actuator at the appropriate point.

Excellent, thank you everyone, I appreciate your time.

  • Like 1
Posted

The gear up and down switches are DPDT switches. One pole controls the relays that control the motor and one pole controls the indicators. The adjustment of the switches is critical especially on the Dukes actuator because, if not adjusted correctly, it is possible for the actuator to overrun and bend the tubes. 

  • Like 2
Posted
28 minutes ago, PT20J said:

The gear up and down switches are DPDT switches. One pole controls the relays that control the motor and one pole controls the indicators. The adjustment of the switches is critical especially on the Dukes actuator because, if not adjusted correctly, it is possible for the actuator to overrun and bend the tubes. 

Thanks...I'm troubleshooting the issue with the gear warning buzzer going off even though the gears are up and I'm flying 25/25...normally it would go off at extremely low/idle position of the throttle if the gear was indicating up.

Posted
14 hours ago, Matthew P said:

Thanks...I'm troubleshooting the issue with the gear warning buzzer going off even though the gears are up and I'm flying 25/25...normally it would go off at extremely low/idle position of the throttle if the gear was indicating up.

Definitely look at the throttle switch closely first.  That’s the most likely to do this and easiest to fix.

Posted
2 hours ago, Yetti said:

What they said.   The gear warning and lights are different circuits.

Somehow they are tied in that when I pull the gear horn cb, it extinguishes the light and the horn

Posted
3 hours ago, Yetti said:

The gear warning and lights are different circuits.

1 hour ago, Matthew P said:

Somehow they are tied in that when I pull the gear horn cb, it extinguishes the light and the horn

You are correct, and Yetti's statement is simply wrong for M20E models of S/N 21-1181 and on.  The positive lead of the gear warning sonalert is connected to an output pin of one pole in the DPTP uplimit switch, and the input pin of that pole is connected to the gear unsafe light, hence why the light can extinguish with the disabling of the gear horn CB.  But the wiring of the gear horn is a little complicated - its positive lead is connected to several things, including the throttle position sense switch, and I agree with other speculators that a mis-placement of that switch is the likely cause of your problem.

I understand people are just trying to help, but I really wish folks here would stop making blanket statements about electrical wiring without identifying specific models and serial numbers, and ideally referencing schematics.  Mooney changed the electrical wiring of the C/E/F models several times over the production run, in some cases changing the logic of the test and warning circuitry.  What is true in one "Vintage Mooney" isn't necessarily true in another.  You have to look at the schematics to give advice.

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Vance Harral said:

You are correct, and Yetti's statement is simply wrong for M20E models of S/N 21-1181 and on.  The positive lead of the gear warning sonalert is connected to an output pin of one pole in the DPTP uplimit switch, and the input pin of that pole is connected to the gear unsafe light, hence why the light can extinguish with the disabling of the gear horn CB.  But the wiring of the gear horn is a little complicated - its positive lead is connected to several things, including the throttle position sense switch, and I agree with other speculators that a mis-placement of that switch is the likely cause of your problem.

I understand people are just trying to help, but I really wish folks here would stop making blanket statements about electrical wiring without identifying specific models and serial numbers, and ideally referencing schematics.  Mooney changed the electrical wiring of the C/E/F models several times over the production run, in some cases changing the logic of the test and warning circuitry.  What is true in one "Vintage Mooney" isn't necessarily true in another.  You have to look at the schematics to give advice.

 

 

 

Well that's not right either.    It really depends on if you have a squat switch.      on a later F 70s F the Sonalert is triggered by the Squat Switch on the Port wing.   The Gear Pos light is triggered by the Down limit switch in the belly.    Even with your statement, the Gear Pos Light and Gear Warn are on separate circuits.   The fact remains that the mostly likely cause of the OP is the throttle sensing limit switch since those are the most likely to get out of adjustment.   The two two circuits are Left wing Plug and Electric Gear plug.    Knowing it is two different circuits is important because the numbering scheme on the wiring changes.  Where the power comes from is less relevant.  One CB can power two different circuits.  

I learned a long time ago to leave off the last paragraph.

Edited by Yetti
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Yetti said:

Well that's not right either.    It really depends on if you have a squat switch.      on a later F 70s F the Sonalert is triggered by the Squat Switch on the Port wing.   The Gear Pos light is triggered by the Down limit switch in the belly.    Even with your statement, the Gear Pos Light and Gear Warn are on separate circuits.   The fact remains that the mostly likely cause of the OP is the throttle sensing limit switch since those are the most likely to get out of adjustment.   The two two circuits are Left wing Plug and Electric Gear plug.    Knowing it is two different circuits is important because the numbering scheme on the wiring changes.  Where the power comes from is less relevant.  One CB can power two different circuits.  

I learned a long time ago to leave off the last paragraph.

So, I have a 1966 E and the landing gear horn CB, when pulled, extinguisher BOTH the landing gear indicator lights AND the horn...so maybe they are wired differently between models...also to note, it came from the factory with the Johnson bar and directly over to Dougosh for the electric landing gear install, so maybe they wired it differently...

Edited by Matthew P
Posted
32 minutes ago, Matthew P said:

So, I have a 1966 E and the landing gear horn CB, when pulled, extinguisher BOTH the landing gear indicator lights AND the horn...so maybe they are wired differently between models...also to note, it came from the factory with the Johnson bar and directly over to Doug's for the electric landing gear install, so maybe they wired it differently...

The key would probably be to see if you have a Squat switch over on the left wheel.

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