instrument panel shock mounts M20J

[Vref]

It looks like my  instrument panel shock mounts have to be replaced . The left panel is a bit drooped.

I looked in the IPC but couldn't find details...Are they the lord mounts as you can find in Cessna's ?

http://www.chiefaircraft.com/aircraft/installation-supplies/shock-mounts/ld-j6984-8.html

from aircraft spruce they look a bit different

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/shockmounts3.php

Looking for some to do/careful guidelines here...

Are they threaded into the instrument panel frame? What if the old one is broken off..?

Some acorn nuts are missing also..but I guess these are the standard 8-32 brass acorn nuts..?

thanks

Luc

 

[sleepingsquirrel]

I just replaced some on my M20 B model. The only advise is to use a sticky dab of something on the end of the appropriate finger or thumb that will allow you to stick the lock washer and then the nut up to the end projecting behind the panel. Once the nut is started on the thread just pull away the sticky dab of something.  The other way is to hire a circus contortionist  and let him do it.  I used some butyl tape rolled into a little ball. It was cheaper than the circus performer. I'm also lucky that I can get upside down in the leg well with my legs up over the pilots seat very comfortably. Having a helper to hand you tools and nuts and washers you drop is a good thing. Have more nuts and lock washers than you need because you probably don't want you male helper getting that personal with you trying to retrieve a dropped lock washer, if you can get a good looking girl helper she will quit when she realizes you are dropping stuff on purpose.

If I had to do it again I would just get a bungee cord and support the panel from the most convenient overhead spot.

I would go with the fat ones the correct depth as you will see the skinny ones droop a little bit even when new.

[PTK]

I replaced mine a few months ago. I used the mounts that replace the acorn nuts with the flush screws. They look better than those acorns! These require male threaded back part wich screws into the tubular structure and female front to accept a flat screw that will look nice and flush with the panel. I don't have part numbers now but f you PM me I'll get them for you and info where to get them.

As far as the work involved it's relatively easy. It should take you about an hour to change them. What you need to do is support the panel and the weight of the instruments and simultaneously be able to slide it forward about an inch or so. This will enable you to get behind it to remove the old mounts and install the new ones. I did this by using longer screws along the top to allow the panel to "hang" and slide forward. After that it's a matter of sawpping them one by one starting with the bottom ones first. The hardest part was to squeeze and fit underneath. You'd want to remove the glareshield and seats!

[Vref]

OK Squirel thanks for the info, so the aircraft spruce ones (skinny) are no good then? I think on the M20B it's a bit different..no..?

On the J model the instrument panel frame (with a threaded female bushing) are holding the shock mount (male thread) and the front thread sticks out and goes throught the instrument panel.... I would assume that you just have to screw in the mount and adjust the panel over it by lifting it.. and  screw on the acorn nut...?

Is it correct that the instrument panel tube has a threaded bushing in metal which can hold only the 8-32 threads?

Allsmiles interesting approach I'll sent a PM

thanks

[sleepingsquirrel]

Quote: Vref

OK Squirel thanks for the info, so the aircraft spruce ones (skinny) are no good then? I think on the M20B it's a bit different..no..?

On the J model the instrument panel frame (with a threaded female bushing) are holding the shock mount (male thread) and the front thread sticks out and goes throught the instrument panel.... I would assume that you just have to screw in the mount and adjust the panel over it by lifting it.. and  screw on the acorn nut...?

Is it correct that the instrument panel tube has a threaded bushing in metal which can hold only the 8-32 threads?

Allsmiles interesting approach I'll sent a PM

thanks

[OR75]

Vref

I believe the correct part number you are looking for is:

J-6984-64

 

 

[N601RX]

Any style or size you need.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-mounts/=g0bma6

 

 

[Vref]

Thank you all, now it starts to get interesting ...

basically the thicker ones are...

J6984-1

length 1 1/4

1/2 diameter

studs are AN340-8 meaning its a 8-32 thread

the thinner ones

J6984-8

3/8 diameter

1/2 lenght

studs are AN340-10 meaning its 10-24 thread...They indeed seems to look flimsy for the weight of the panel

 

I have a gut feeling that the thicker diameter and thread size is the correct ones for the M20J..Looking at the acorn nuts my metric mind thinks M4 so almost 8-32..?

Having to order this stuff in the US of A I wan to get it right...specially when having the rivnuts already in place as squirel mentions

In Europe you can find it in metric but this doesn't bring much in UNC threaded aircraft..

Thanks all for the valuable input so far

An now which one we use in our mooneys....?

http://www.sacskyranch.com/acatalog/Sacramento_Sky_Ranch_Instrument_panel_mounts_242.html

rgds

Luc

[OR75]

Luc

I am not sure what you are trying to do. Replace the current shock mounts with stronger ones ? change to metrics ?? Ue a different mechanism ???

If you are looking for a direct replacement: the part number is J-6984-64. The 2 threads are not of equal length.

In the parts catalog, it is item 10 on figure 7 of section 53-10-06

http://www.skygeek.com/j6984-64.html

 

[Vref]

Quote: OR75

Luc

I am not sure what you are trying to do. Replace the current shock mounts with stronger ones ? change to metrics ?? Ue a different mechanism ???

If you are looking for a direct replacement: the part number is J-6984-64. The 2 threads are not of equal length.

In the parts catalog, it is item 10 on figure 7 of section 53-10-06

http://www.skygeek.com/j6984-64.html

 

[MARZ]

Make sure you mind the grounding cables that loop from one stud to the other.   I had two that I replaced as they had frayed and failed.