Would like to add PTT switches to my yokes

[M20 Ogler]

Right now in order to transmit I’m using of of the Velcro variety push to talk buttons. It gets the job done but it also has it draw backs (breaks squelch when plug is bumped, connection is not always solid). Has anyone here added push to talk to their yokes? What parts did you need?

[KB4]

Mine came with but if I had to guess, u need PTT switch from and yoke cover from Alan, standard shielded wire, pins, solder tubes, and diagram for your intercom. 

[Mooney Dog]

Most likely if you dont want to attach things to the yoke, you'll either need a new yoke or to drill hole into your yoke itself. 

[WaynePierce]

I would bet that your yokes are solid and you can't add them to your existing set up. You would need to get hollow yokes to add your ptt.

[N201MKTurbo]

On my old F Mooney, I had the Velcro on buttons. I removed the jack and plug and soldered the cord to the PTT pin on the jack. It worked flawlessly for years. I tied the coiled cord to the yoke shaft by the yoke and the other end up under the panel.

[A64Pilot]

On my 46 C-140, I put a button in the instrument panel, it’s not as inconvenient as you would think.

You could make a small plate and screw it to the top of the yoke to mount the PTT and drill the tube for the wires, or run them external 

Edited January 25, 2022 by A64Pilot

[Marauder]

Right now in order to transmit I’m using of of the Velcro variety push to talk buttons. It gets the job done but it also has it draw backs (breaks squelch when plug is bumped, connection is not always solid). Has anyone here added push to talk to their yokes? What parts did you need?

It depends on what style of yoke you have. On my 75 F, it came with “Mongo” yokes. These yokes were large and made for button additions difficult. I know some of the owners who have made adapters to accommodate more buttons.

In my case, I had a reoccurring AD on the yoke shafts and I upgraded them to the newer style yokes. This allowed for better placement of the switches on the yokes.


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[Skates97]

I replaced my yokes with the newer style and have the old ones off my plane. The one off the left side has a PTT switch in it, I can send you pictures in the next couple days if you are interested. That would at least get you a PTT in the left yoke which is where it is needed the most.

[carusoam]

My M20C wasn’t using the hole for the Brittain system…

That hole is perfect for a PTT switch…

Put a switch on the panel for the Brittain disconnect…. If you want the wing leveler disconnect.  If the rules allow for that…

 

PP thoughts only,

-a-

[Hector]

I purchased a leather cover kit for my C that came with PTT for both sides.


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[hoot777]

I have little red buttons on my ptt which is attached to a plate screwed to the yoke. The buttons pop off and then you are left with a pin you push. It works but not the most comfortable. Anyone know a source for the buttons. I ordered several recently but they don’t fit. Thanks

[LANCECASPER]

12 minutes ago, hoot777 said:

I have little red buttons on my ptt which is attached to a plate screwed to the yoke. The buttons pop off and then you are left with a pin you push. It works but not the most comfortable. Anyone know a source for the buttons. I ordered several recently but they don’t fit. Thanks

Search is your friend on Mooneyspace ("push to talk"):

 

[Vance Harral]

A cap that fits the OEM switch in 70s-era Mooneys is this one: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/690-SW53AA2

But... the problem a lot of people run into is that as those switches malfunction over the years, they are often replaced by shops with a switch that is equivalent in function, but not exactly the same, such that the OEM caps don't fit.  There's nothing particularly shady about this - the OEM switches can be hard to find, and are often superceded by other parts.  They're also "standard electronic parts", and a reasonable interpretation of the rules allows replacement of simple electrical switches with equivalents that are not exactly the same dimensions.

So... your best bet is actually to replace the whole switch, along with caps to match.  Perhaps with this one: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/690-SA1BV20, which matches the caps above.  Doing so is straightforward if you're handy with a soldering iron (and if there's enough of a service loop left in the wiring, otherwise you have to replace the wire or add extensions).  I'll leave the legalities of DIY to others to pontificate on.

Word of advice about the caps: either buy a whole bunch of them, or have the gumption to place a drop of CA or plastic glue on the cap when you stick it on the shaft.  The caps just press fit onto the switch shaft.  They're not particularly secure, and they don't stay in place very long in the cockpit environment.  When they come off, they often get lost in the seats, carpet, or down in the bowels of the belly.  You can guess how I know this, and it's probably the reason your caps are missing in the first place.  I went through my whole stash of caps a while back, and gave up - we're back to just stabbing our thumbs on the tiny little shaft.

[Hank]

4 hours ago, Vance Harral said:

... we're back to just stabbing our thumbs on the tiny little shaft.

I'll have to check the mouser part. My right side button is fine, but I need new wiring for it, the insulation is cracking and peeling off.

But some of us just have little buttons to begin with . . . The pilot side is bigger.