DCarlton Posted April 19 Report Share Posted April 19 3 hours ago, Ragsf15e said: Yep, you need one then. You’re pulling unfiltered air right into the fuel servo and through into the engine. There may be some temporary repairs that could work depending on your mechanics comfort level. The lead time for the new one is at least 35 weeks, so you’ll want to call Lasar asap. I have a hole in mine and I don’t think there’s any repair that I’m comfortable with. I’ve had three inflight emergencies (one declared) in 30 years and don’t want another one. I think I’d rather suck unfiltered air. Suggestions welcome. New part on order. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrickearly Posted April 19 Report Share Posted April 19 3 hours ago, Ragsf15e said: Yep, you need one then. You’re pulling unfiltered air right into the fuel servo and through into the engine. There may be some temporary repairs that could work depending on your mechanics comfort level. The lead time for the new one is at least 35 weeks, so you’ll want to call Lasar asap. I’m thinking to use a tire patch bonded with RTV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted April 19 Report Share Posted April 19 4 hours ago, Derrickearly said: I’m thinking to use a tire patch bonded with RTV. Take it off and clean it real good by scrubbing it with a tooth brush and comet cleanser until it rinses off clean, inside and out. Then get some 1oz fiberglass cloth and cut it into patches a little bigger than the hole. Apply a thin coat of black RTV around the hole, on the outside and stick on a piece of fiberglass. Then apply a little RTV over the patch and work it into the cloth till it is saturated. Massage it until it fits the shape of the boot folds and doesn’t protrude into the boot. Now apply another piece of fiberglass and cover with RTV. Let it cure overnight. If there are any fringes of fiberglass, trim them with a surgical scissors. Then add another thin layer of RTV to make it look good. All RTV work should be done with rubber gloves on. The RTV layers should be as thin as possible while saturating the fiberglass. The RTV will only bond to the boot if the boot is clean and dry. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrickearly Posted April 19 Report Share Posted April 19 21 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said: Take it off and clean it real good by scrubbing it with a tooth brush and comet cleanser until it rinses off clean, inside and out. Then get some 1oz fiberglass cloth and cut it into patches a little bigger than the hole. Apply a thin coat of black RTV around the hole, on the outside and stick on a piece of fiberglass. Then apply a little RTV over the patch and work it into the cloth till it is saturated. Massage it until it fits the shape of the boot folds and doesn’t protrude into the boot. Now apply another piece of fiberglass and cover with RTV. Let it cure overnight. If there are any fringes of fiberglass, trim them with a surgical scissors. Then add another thin layer of RTV to make it look good. All RTV work should be done with rubber gloves on. The RTV layers should be as thin as possible while saturating the fiberglass. The RTV will only bond to the boot if the boot is clean and dry. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
201guy Posted April 20 Report Share Posted April 20 Carl at Houston Tank Specialists has a few. 281-799-8487 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted April 20 Report Share Posted April 20 MS is full up with incredible people… We have GB around here… his main business is molding rubber parts for under hood applications… lots of high end car parts, and some fancy Mooney baffle seals… When it comes to polymer parts… OPP gets a little more challenging than metal parts… chemistry, X-linking, color, and stability additives…. There are a couple of successful OPP projects around here… engine controls and up and down gear lock blocks… we have one OPP project that has been in limbo forever… rubber donuts. More for the Mite, than other Mooneys… Also remember a couple of odd things…. Very often, simple humor gets mis-understood… If you step on somebody’s toes…. It’s easier to say sorry, than build your own Mooney website… if you have less that 1k post count… you’re still a newbie…. if you are under 70… somebody will call you a young buck… if you suggest a full modern Mooney solution for a 1965 Mooney challenge… the price is going to be enormous… to the 65C owner…. A new cowling with plumbing for my O cost more than my previous M20C. Does everyone remember where the alt air for the engine is, and how to activate it, and why it delivers less air? PP thoughts only… Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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