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Posted

Hey guys I was wondering if anyone would be interested in helping me change the oil in my F model. I'm located in Stuart, fl but am willing to make a flight somewhere if needed?

  • Like 1
Posted

Actually it's fairly easy to do. You'll need an old bucket and a hose, typically 3/8 or 5/8" to drain the old oil into as long as you have a quick drain valve. If not it has a 1/2" NPT drain plug which you'll need to remove to drain the sump.

If you're cleaning the suction screen you'll need an MS35769-21 copper crush gasket, a 5/8" wrench and safer wire. MS20995-032 is used on both the filter and the suction screen nut. The suction screen in on the right rear portion of the oil sump you'll have to cut the safety wire to remove the nut to access the screen. Clean the screen and check it for large chunks of metal. Reinstall the screen and the nut with the new gasket with open side toward the engine, reinstall new safety wire(the hardest part)

To remove the main oil filter you'll have to cut the safety wire and will need a 1" wrench to loosen the filter. Slow steady pressure is best for loosening the filter, don't be forceful you'll just destroy the pressed metal nut. We have fashioned many different type of catch cups and diverters to catch the oil from the filter, it can be done without baptizing the engine in hot oil with a bit of practice.

Cut open your old filter, with a none chipping tool. I use a 4" Rigid brand pipe cutter, cut and remove the pleated media from the center support, stretch it out and run a strong magnet through the pleats looking for your camshaft and lifters

Reinstall the new filter, be sure to lubricate the gasket with new engine oil or DC4 lubricant, torque the filter per the instructions on the filter, either toque method or turn method and install new safety wire.

Close the drain valve or drain plug with new safety wire and fill the sump with new oil, run the engine to verify no leaks and make a log entry.

Clarence

Posted

For your first time changing oil: get help. Make friends with people around your airport. Or find a mechanic who is willing to help with owner-assisted maintenance, and pay him/her.

  • Like 1
Posted

I just went though this yesterday for the first time ever. I was going to change it myself but elected to do an owner assisted oil change at the local shop. I think I will make a video next time as I will be doing it myself. Here is a neat trick to avoid getting oil all over the back of the engine from the filter. Take a sacrificial screw driver or a hole punch and tap a small hole in the old filter and open the filler cap. Take an air compressor and make a good seal around the old hole you just punched in the old filter and blow compressed air into it until you are satisfied the oil has drained out of it...took about a minute or two for mine. When complete, simply remove the filter and you should have very little to no oil remaining in the filter. 

 

The other hard part was the safety wire as I have never had to use it before not did I even think about it ahead of time as I do not own pliers for the job. I am very mechanically inclined but you def need some instructions on the correct method when it comes to safety wire. How you loop it in relation to the thread direction on the filter matters and unless you have done it before, this could be easily missed. I shelled out 200 bucks to the shop yesterday but I think the knowledge gained was well worth it. My next oil change will cost me no more than about 60 bucks as I plan on buying oil in bulk.

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Posted

The easiest way I have found to keep the filter from making a mess is just bring a cheap plastic shopping bag. Cover filter with bag and twist off. Works great.

Posted

To do it correctly you really need to be shown the right way the first time. It's critical to get it right. 

The sump screen can be particularly challenging if you don't know how. There is an art to safety wiring and it will take you a couple of tries the first time also, The safety wire can be done just fine with duckbill pliers and dykes. You MUST learn how to fold back the pigtail. DC4 compound (comes in a tube from AC Spruce) is the stuff to use on the gasket surface. A torque wrench and  a 1" short socket for tightening the filter. Using a screwdriver to tap a hole in the filter can is frowned upon by Lycoming as they have had engines fail because a chip of steel from the hole was drained into the engine and circulated around inside until failure. That aside, I've used a sharp pointed punch to make a very small hole and let it drain all night.

This is also a very good time to give the engine a look over if you are shown what you need to look at and what can go wrong. 

Learning how to remove and install your cowl correctly is a very good lesson also. 

Lots of other "preventive maintenance" items (shown in AC 43.13) you can do yourself if shown how first. Gives owners a much better understanding of their airplanes. 

Learn how to do it right and enjoy doing it yourself. 

Posted

I wonder if the trick of using compressed air to empty the oil filter has unintended consequences? If you over purge the filter, you will also be displacing the oil in the galleries and journal passages with compressed air. How much does this contribute to a dry start? Think I will stick to draining and mineral spirits for the clean up.

Bill

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey guys I was wondering if anyone would be interested in helping me change the oil in my F model. I'm located in Stuart, fl but am willing to make a flight somewhere if needed?

Changing mine this weekend. We can do yours too. I'm at KCRG (Jacksonville)

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