In my first annual

[wombat]

I had a list of things that I wanted to look at before we even started:

 

• Starter bendix doesn't always engage
• Ram air light inop
• My propeller control is really hard to move, particularly when the engine is cold.
• Throttle idle adjustment incorrect, engine dies if throttle pulled all the way out
• Idle mixture adjustment incorrect, engine rise of 150RPM or more when leaning starting at 1000 RPM
• Gaps and cracks in engine baffles
• My left fuel tank cap has had the locking lever pop up a couple of times and it does not want to stay all the way down. 
• LED Landing light intercom noise. (It may be because the power for it is routed right along the alternator line)
• The ELT Antenna broke off; it's just a stub now.
• Repair left fuel tank gauge / sensor INOP
• Check ailerons / flaps / rigging for true as aircraft tends to roll left, particularly with the flaps extended
• Remove the rest of the pink fiberglass insulation and and replace as necessary and completely comply with SB-208.
• Remove ADF from panel and replace with empty slot cover.
• Consider applying corrosion-X or similar.

During the first part of the inspection we found that there is a crack in the exhaust.

I was thinking of a powerflow exhaust, but if it's $300 to repair and re-install the existing one Vs. $4900 for the powerflow, plus a 6-12 week delay, I'll save my money and buy more avgas.

 

But so far things are going well!

[carusoam]

The cap flap should be facing toward the tail. Wind would push it closed...?

Probably got re-assembled backwards after an inner seal swap.

The cam shape wears. Some people have added some weld material to it and reshaped.

Best regards,

-a-

[jetdriven]

Let me save you a few bucks

 

I had a list of things that I wanted to look at before we even started:

 

• Starter bendix doesn't always engage

lube the bendix shaft with silicone spray but if you have the old school 25 lb Prestolite starter, the bendix must be lubed underneath the gear.  You remove the starter, remove the nose housing from the starter, and remove the bendix drive. extend it by hand, lube the helix shaft under it very sparingly with moly grease.

• Ram air light inop
• My propeller control is really hard to move, particularly when the engine is cold.
• Throttle idle adjustment incorrect, engine dies if throttle pulled all the way out
• Idle mixture adjustment incorrect, engine rise of 150RPM or more when leaning starting at 1000 RPM

those two are related. A super rich mixture causes low idle. Lean it out with the star wheel then go back and forth with the idle stop screw and the mixture. Check it after running it at 1700 RPM for a few seconds. Its all described in Precision letter SIL RS-67. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCAQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.precisionairmotive.com%2FPublications%2FSIL%2520RS-67.pdf&ei=hMq9VLWWIIOigwTfpoTICA&usg=AFQjCNGeGVuFuvp6pKQ40vXdshoZ54m-6w&sig2=5DToYen1nKaIRBRiGsqXLw&bvm=bv.83829542,d.eXY

• Gaps and cracks in engine baffles
• My left fuel tank cap has had the locking lever pop up a couple of times and it does not want to stay all the way down. 
• LED Landing light intercom noise. (It may be because the power for it is routed right along the alternator line)
• The ELT Antenna broke off; it's just a stub now.

I have a pointer low profile ELT antenna for you, I removed it for a different style. PM me.

• Repair left fuel tank gauge / sensor INOP
• Check ailerons / flaps / rigging for true as aircraft tends to roll left, particularly with the flaps extended
• Remove the rest of the pink fiberglass insulation and and replace as necessary and completely comply with SB-208.
• Remove ADF from panel and replace with empty slot cover.
• Consider applying corrosion-X or similar.

During the first part of the inspection we found that there is a crack in the exhaust.

I was thinking of a powerflow exhaust, but if it's $300 to repair and re-install the existing one Vs. $4900 for the powerflow, plus a 6-12 week delay, I'll save my money and buy more avgas.

 

But so far things are going well!

 

[Jim Peace]

Upgrade to a 406 ELT. It will come with an antenna and you will be found a lot sooner then with the old stuff. This is the whole point of an ELT.

[BigTex]

That's quite the list of issues you've listed there... I've only had my plane a few years but I've found that it's better to work on those squawks as they come up throughout the year than wait for the annual.  It helps spread the costs and leaves you with a better flying plane.  It also keeps from having an annual with a price tag that would choke a horse.

 

Something to think about for your next annual.

[wombat]

carusoam:  The flap is pointing toward the tail.  Maybe in flight it would be pushed back down by airflow, but I don't want to take off with the flap up to find out.    It usually comes up just a little bit, but one night it came up to 90 degrees and wouldn't stay down very well.  It was frosty and very cold which may have been part of the cause.  I'll probably keep my eyes out for a cheap used cap.  Since the problem seems to be just that the flap itself is worn, I can probably mill one myself out of aluminum if I get desperate.  If I do that I'll post about it here with my experience, and will assist others in producing their own part.

 

jetdriven:  I've done the silicone spray thing a couple of times and it's helped, but I was hoping to find a more long-term solution.   Ideally one that doesn't involve replacing the starter, as someone else had suggested in a different post.   Silicone spray is cheap.  Starters are expensive.  About the mixture/idle, the way you explain it makes it easy to see that they are related.   I'll make sure it's right after the annual.   Since I'm not an A&P I didn't want to try to do these myself.  And I tried to PM you but I think your storage quota is full.   The shop said they'd give me an antenna for free, but thanks anyway.  It's not low profile but the price is right and I don't think I'll pick up that much more speed.  

 

Jim:   It's just an antenna.   Maybe should I just toss the plane and get an Ovation instead?   Do you throw the baby out with the bath water very often or only with other people's budgets?     No offense, but I think your solution is overkill.

 

Gary:  I agree that fixing issues as they come up is ideal, but since the MSC is 200 miles away and I work nearly every day they are open, getting the plane down there for a minor issue is a huge hassle.   As I build up 'free ride' credit with my fellow pilots I can probably do that a little more often, but unless I have someone to give me a ride it's at least a half day event just to get the plane to them, and another half day to get it back.

 

They have found a couple of other issues in the annual that I'm thinking about in addition to some minor stuff:

 

• The muffler is cracked.  Should I have it welded, replaced, or maybe get a Powerflow exhaust?
• Both magnetos are over 1000 hours since last overhaul.   Should I have them overhauled or treat this as condition based maintenance?
• Rear wing spar is cracked at flap actuator bracket.   I'm not surprised and several folks have talked about this here.   It's about $1,200 to get the kit and fix it.  Painful but I think it's worth it.
• They tried lubricating the prop cable but it didn't help, so I'm now looking at a replacement for about $330.   Not a huge deal and worth it.
• The big one is that the LH fuel quantity indicator gauge seems to be INOP.   Can those be replaced individually?  Is there anyone that repairs them? (Keystone doesn't)   Are there many available on the open market?   I'm considering getting a JPI to replace all the various engine instruments if this turns into too big of a hassle.   Anyone have any opinions on this?  (Boy, asking a bunch of Mooney pilots of they have opinions.... Dangerous)

[jetdriven]

 

jetdriven:  I've done the silicone spray thing a couple of times and it's helped, but I was hoping to find a more long-term solution.   Ideally one that doesn't involve replacing the starter, as someone else had suggested in a different post.   Silicone spray is cheap.  Starters are expensive.  About the mixture/idle, the way you explain it makes it easy to see that they are related.   I'll make sure it's right after the annual.   Since I'm not an A&P I didn't want to try to do these myself.  And I tried to PM you but I think your storage quota is full.   The shop said they'd give me an antenna for free, but thanks anyway.  It's not low profile but the price is right and I don't think I'll pick up that much more speed.  

 

there is a helix UNDER the bendix drive and you have to remove the bendix unit from the starter to access it. I detail the maintenance to be done here: http://mooneyspace.com/topic/10696-starter-issue/page-2?hl=%2Bbendix+%2Bmoly#entry126840

 

Jim:   It's just an antenna.   Maybe should I just toss the plane and get an Ovation instead?   Do you throw the baby out with the bath water very often or only with other people's budgets?     No offense, but I think your solution is overkill.

 

Gary:  I agree that fixing issues as they come up is ideal, but since the MSC is 200 miles away and I work nearly every day they are open, getting the plane down there for a minor issue is a huge hassle.   As I build up 'free ride' credit with my fellow pilots I can probably do that a little more often, but unless I have someone to give me a ride it's at least a half day event just to get the plane to them, and another half day to get it back.

 

They have found a couple of other issues in the annual that I'm thinking about in addition to some minor stuff:

 

• The muffler is cracked.  Should I have it welded, replaced, or maybe get a Powerflow exhaust?

if its cracked send it to someplace like Aerospace Welding Inc. for a repair or OH.  It almost always becomes an OH because of wear,  and I'd guess its 700$ for one. Much cheaper than 3500$ for a Powerflow, although the M20C seems to really improve performance so I'd consider it for one of those.  Re, the AWI muffler, Its really a new muffler but they call it OH. They save one little piece and replace the rest. Then they replace the one little piece.

• Both magnetos are over 1000 hours since last overhaul.   Should I have them overhauled or treat this as condition based maintenance?

With 1000 hours since IRAN I'd have that done before further flight, and again at 500hr intervals. The only real difference between OH and IRAN is replacement of the shaft bearings. unless the bearings are bad, get the IRAN.  For me it depends on the brand. If its Slick, the IRAN can quickly exceed the cost of a new magneto. And Slick mags are nearly a thousand dollars each and if you get 500hr from one, you're lucky. If they are Bendix, IRAN costs arent as much. Repair parts are 1/3rd the cost.  You may be able to buy Bendix cores on eBay and get those exchanged for OH/exchanged Bendix mags for the same money as Slick, but have a more reliable setup. I did that.  I'd specify to replace the nylon gears inside no matter what, they don't always do that. 

• Rear wing spar is cracked at flap actuator bracket.   I'm not surprised and several folks have talked about this here.   It's about $1,200 to get the kit and fix it.  Painful but I think it's worth it.
• They tried lubricating the prop cable but it didn't help, so I'm now looking at a replacement for about $330.   Not a huge deal and worth it.
• The big one is that the LH fuel quantity indicator gauge seems to be INOP.   Can those be replaced individually?  Is there anyone that repairs them? (Keystone doesn't)   Are there many available on the open market?   I'm considering getting a JPI to replace all the various engine instruments if this turns into too big of a hassle.   Anyone have any opinions on this?  (Boy, asking a bunch of Mooney pilots of they have opinions.... Dangerous)

 

[Bennett]

I just dropped off my J at LASAR. today for her annual. Their new shop manager is the most qualified of the managers I have met at LASAR over the 30+ years I have been taking my Moineys there. No squawks of any consequence going in, but one never knows. I am having the GTN software and firmware updated, and they will install a new CYA 100 AOA. LASAR's hangars are filled with Mooneys, and I take this to be a good sign that at least some of our Mooney fleet is being serviced well. LASAR has never been inexpensive, but I always feel comfortable after an annual that the airplane is safe to fly.

[Sabremech]

I admire LASAR for all the parts and STC's they have. I'm sure they do good work, but I'm always comfortable when I fly my airplane after doing the annual myself. I don't think I can trust any shop to be as thorough as I can be since i decide when the annual is completed, whether it be a few days or a few weeks. I think some of our Mooneys are maintained better by A&P owners.

David

[bonal]

Being right across the field from LASAR is kind of fun cause I get to see lots of Mooney's I really appreciate that they permit owner assist saves money and I get to see what's going on with my bird. Dan in parts is fantastic and if you ever get the chance take a look through their parts department talk about a candy store. As for your Washington based bird they offer ferry services.

[1964-M20E]

Congrats on the plane.

I used to own 6943U and E model SN313 only 3 numbers before yours.  My first annual sounds somewhat like yours.  I was fortunate to have an A&P/IA work with me, teach me and let me turn the wrenches.

1. Starter if it's giving you that much trouble get the new lighter starter
2. Muffler you can get a new standard muffler for less that the power flows.  Some swear by them I have not experience with them.
3. ADF if it is working leave it in for now save some $ on removal and learn to use it.   They are fun to play with and still valuable for a few approaches for the time being and you can use it to cross reference your position.
4. Prop control do not forget to lube the shaft of the controller inside the cabin.  My prop control will get sticky sometimes as well.

[mooniac15u]

 

 

 

 

Dawley Aviation in Wisconsin just did a complete rebuild of my muffler for $589.  They turned it around in about 2 days. 

[ryoder]

I would ask for prices on all the lowest cost repairs and see where you stand before opting for 406 elts, powerflow exhausts, engine monitors, adf removal etc. Find out what the minimum cost to get the thing airworthy is and start from there. Of course this is my opinion.

[1964-M20E]

I would ask for prices on all the lowest cost repairs and see where you stand before opting for 406 elts, powerflow exhausts, engine monitors, adf removal etc. Find out what the minimum cost to get the thing airworthy is and start from there. Of course this is my opinion.

+1

[wombat]

I'm doing all of the 'known cost' issues first, including overhauling the mags.

 

They are sending the exhaust out to a welding shop that they are familiar with and at worst case I'll end up with a new non-powerflow exhaust.

 

The one thing that is unresolved is that my left fuel quantity indicator seems to have failed.  There doesn't seem to be a repair option for the gauges any more but I can replace the cluster for about $900.  My plane is grounded until I get this fixed and I have several weeks before I can even think about going flying, so time is not critical.

 

I'm thinking that if it's going to cost that much, I might as well get a full engine monitor and replace them all and as such I'm looking at the JPI EDM 900 or EDM 930.  

 

The 900 can be had for about $3200 plus about 40 hours to install.

The 930 can be had for about $5000 plus about 40 hours to install.

 

Does anyone know what the differences are between them?

 

John:

It's fun that there are few enough of these planes that we can talk about being close in serial numbers.      The ADF wasn't working and has been removed, which is what I wanted anyway.  I did my IFR training in planes that had them and while they do work and are a fun experiment these days, I don't intend to ever fly a NDB approach.

[mooniac15u]

Kelly Aerospace repaired the gauge cluster on my M20D in 2012 for significantly less than than $900. They quoted me a maximum of $675 if all gauges needed repair. I don't know which gauge cluster you have but it might be worth giving them a call.

[wombat]

Thanks, I'll call them.     I'm kind of looking forward to having a new engine monitor, but $3500+ will buy a LOT of avgas.   890 gallons at Chehalis, WA.   That's nearly 100 hours of flight time.  More, if I have a good engine monitor and can run LOP...  Hmmm....  

[mooniac15u]

An engine monitor is certainly a good investment. I also see all the other stuff on your list. I've been there and feel your pain.

[Alhall]

The kit to repair the rear spare center splice should be more like $180 from Laser. Bought one three months ago. $1200 for the kit and repair is no a bad price.

[TWinter]

JPI 900 fits in a standard instrument hole and is certified as primary. The 930 is quite a bit bigger and eats more panel space, however, the display is much larger and is easier to read. It really depends how your dash is laid out. I have a 830, I would like the 930 because it does have the fuel option and is bigger. The 900 is nice, but that's a lot of information in a small box. JPI did have some rebates going.  

[wombat]

I'm also looking at the CGR-30P; it's smaller and looks like it'll fit better.   I guess it depends on what I can do with my existing gauges.

[wombat]

My annual is still in progress, it's been a doozy so far.

 

 

The only unresolved issue is the fuel gauge.

 

They sent it out to another shop in New Jersey to test it and they said it was totally dead and they couldn't repair it.

There are serviceable used ones available which will have basically a $0 install cost, which is a big savings over a new digital system.

 

Does anyone know of any shops that might do a repair or does anyone have a serviceable used one?

[jbs007]

I am redoing my panel soon and really want the CGR-30P.  I can remove so many old gauges with it; It's STC'd to be primary for up to 6 functions I think.  It's gonna clean my panel up real nice.

[HRM]

That's quite the list of issues you've listed there... I've only had my plane a few years but I've found that it's better to work on those squawks as they come up throughout the year than wait for the annual.  It helps spread the costs and leaves you with a better flying plane.  It also keeps from having an annual with a price tag that would choke a horse.

 

Something to think about for your next annual.

 

I let the hangar fairies take care of the little squawks...my IA is very understanding, he makes enough with the basic annual.

[DonMuncy]

If you have a wife like mine, she seems to prefer having several small hits, rather than a Huge annual bill. They are high enough with the things you don't know need attention.