Oil temperatures

[markejackson02]

I just put an overhauled engine in N201TK.  I have been running at high power for the first few hours to break the cylinders in.  At 4500, 25 squared, 100 ROP I have had a very hard time keeping the oil temps in the green.  Two flights ago I had to open the cowl flaps keep it in the green.  Pressure and CHT are normal albeit a little high since the engine is running hard.

 

We fixed up the baffling and adjusted the cowl flaps to trail 1/4 inch in cruise, after which the temps stayed green but at the high end (like 215-225).  New cooler, new vernatherm, fresh overhauled engine.

 

Is there anything obvious to check that would help bring the temps down?  This isn't going to work in South Texas in the summer when it's 110 on the ground.

 

Also, my cowl flaps only have the open or close position.  Open at cruise makes everything in the plane shake.  I can trail them by holding the handle open an inch but it is hard as heck.  This is a 1977 201 (24-0048) so an early model.  Is it possible to trail them manually?

 

Mark Jackson

[PLN_FXR]

Mark - How was the original break-in flight flown (what power settings, how much ground-run time prior to flight, etc)?  Was the oil cooler overhauled or replaced at overhaul?  Were new oil cooler hoses fabricated and installed and, if so, were they verified clear prior to installation?  I'm trying to determine if your rings seated properly (the engine cannot cool itself until this happens) and to look for obvious issues.

 

Back in the late 70's I operated 201PZ and it's been too long for me to recall the cowl flaps, but I don't remember them being just open or closed ... but memories can play tricks  . 

[The-sky-captain]

Mark- I have a 77 J and have a trail setting on my cowl flaps that is about half open. You may look into it. Is your oil temps coming off of the factory gauge or an engine moniter JPI type instrument?

[markejackson02]

Mark- I have a 77 J and have a trail setting on my cowl flaps that is about half open. You may look into it. Is your oil temps coming off of the factory gauge or an engine moniter JPI type instrument?

 

These are the factory gauges

 

Mark - How was the original break-in flight flown (what power settings, how much ground-run time prior to flight, etc)?  Was the oil cooler overhauled or replaced at overhaul?  Were new oil cooler hoses fabricated and installed and, if so, were they verified clear prior to installation?  I'm trying to determine if your rings seated properly (the engine cannot cool itself until this happens) and to look for obvious issues.

 

Back in the late 70's I operated 201PZ and it's been too long for me to recall the cowl flaps, but I don't remember them being just open or closed ... but memories can play tricks  . 

 

The first 1.5 hour flight was at 2,000' 25.5/2500 which is ~75 power for 45 min, then 23.5" ~65 for 30 min then 25.5/2500

[orionflt]

You said new vernatherm, it may need to be adjusted.

[carusoam]

Some people may suggest full rich for break-in at low altitude...Varying power settings at 15 minute intervals.

Could be a Continental procedure though.

Best regards,

-a-

[David Brown]

Some of us would suggest that full rich is better indeed. Run around at say WOT 2500 and full rich, or if you can fly a bit lower do it at say 2500' and WOT/2500 and 40-50dF LOP.

 

Much better way to break in the engine.

[Guest]

You should be breaking in the engine per Lycoming S/I 1427C.

Clarence

[RocketAviator]

When needing partial cowling flap position I used length specific cut piece of semi stiff fuel hose spiral split the slip over knob shaft worked great for me. I still carry in plane for hot day operations but rarely have to use it.

[bonal]

Most of my experience is with auto and motorcycle but I noticed you mentioned your pressure was a "little high" as a newly overhauled engine if the tolerances are too close you will see an increase in oil temps I would recommend and oil analysis to check for Bering material. As we all know air cooled engines rely on oil flow to aid in cooling. Your problem may go away after you build up some hours on the OH.

[Guest]

Mark,

Is the new oil cooler the same brand as the original? While you may have an approved unit some brands of new production are not as good as the original. Your vernatherm valve is not adjustable, it should be regulating at 180 degrees, that's not to say it can't be defective.

Clarence

[orionflt]

Mark,

Is the new oil cooler the same brand as the original? While you may have an approved unit some brands of new production are not as good as the original. Your vernatherm valve is not adjustable, it should be regulating at 180 degrees, that's not to say it can't be defective.

Clarence

You are correct clarence, the vernatherm is not adjustable, I was thinking oil pressure not temp when I answered earlier, 

Mark, 

looking back you said your pressure was up even with the high oil temps? did your pressure go up after the oil got to operating temp?

i ask wondering if you have a blockage somewhere or was a gasket installed incorrectly blocking an oil passage.

[MB65E]

Yes, Just make sure it's the filter housing gasket and not the pressure screen gasket...

But I now have a new vernotherm, hoses, OH cooler, and the filter housing gasket.

With the wrong gasket, mine would be ok until the vernotherm closed... Then once it totally closes off oil to the cooler the temp would redline (at or below) . Powered back it was ok until the vernotherm closed.

-Matt