M20F-1968

I am looking for a Ground Power Unit (GPU) to allow running of avionics, updating software, etc... without running engine. I have a Battery Minder, but that does not supply enough power. I am thinking 25 - 50 amps of clean power. The aviation ones run about $600.00. There is an automobile company that makes an aviation product (available from Spruce) for about $250.00. Are there other sources of power supplies that can do the job, but do not have the "aviation" word attached to them that raises the price to 1/2 AMU? John Breda

I am looking for a Ground Power Unit (GPU) to allow running of avionics, updating software, etc... without running engine. I have a Battery Minder, but that does not supply enough power. I am thinking 25 - 50 amps of clean power. The aviation ones run about $600.00. There is an automobile company that makes an aviation product (available from Spruce) for about $250.00. Are there other sources of power supplies that can do the job, but do not have the "aviation" word attached to them that raises the price to 1/2 AMU? John Breda

I have a Robotow electric towbar/tug for sale. I has gotten minimal use as I bought for a second hangar I have in NH (was going to be commuting for a job in NH but that fizzled out) I am now renting the NH hangar. It is part No. 6404, sells new for $1456.00. It is in excellent condition, has Robotow Tug, battery and charger. Charger holds full charge. I have posted some pictures. I am asking $1075.00 plus shipping. You can e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com or call me at (617) 877-0025. It makes short work of moving the plane, is stored easily in the hangar, and will fold and can be put in the baggage compartment if going on a trip and will need to move plane while away. John Breda

I guess I have to chime in on this one. I bought a 1968 F model that sat in a dry hangar in Texas for 26 years. I bought it after speaking with some Mooney shops who suggested I walk away. I then hired Russel Stallings (SW Texas Aviation) to go look at it. He took it apart more than it was already apart, and reported that it was a clean airframe, without corrosion, damage or hail. I knowingly bought it as a project airplane. I can still hear Russel saying to me, "Project airplanes are great, you get what you want in the end." The hardest part of buying a non-flying airplane was finding mechanics on the field who were knowledgeable. When you have a non-flying airplane, you are limited to the local talent, or lack there of. I went through three A&P mechanics who could not do the project at hand (and were less than honest as well). I ultimately found good people. I used a sheetmetal mechanic from Gulfstream who did excellent work, a DER from Eurocopter, two I&A's and A&P and got the airplane flying. Once I got it flying, I found some of the best mechanics and used them, and turned the airplane into what has been appraised as a one of a kind airplane and "probably the most expensive F model out there." I spent the first half of my life as a professional symphony orchestra musician competing for one of 20 positions nationally and was tenured in a position for 8 years. Then I decided to take a more proven route and went to medical school at age 37. The complete restoration of my airplane was at least as difficult as each of my careers (although both more frustrating and more fun at the same time). A mentor of mine told me when I was in my 20's, that it is not the having that is fun, but rather the road to getting there. There is truth to this as well. In the end I have a one of a kind airplane which represents a model that Mooney never made (looks like a modern Mooney, with an IO-360, RayJay turbo, Ovation interior, glass cockpit, a dream panel, onboard Oxygen, Johnson bar and hydraulic flaps) . The avionics are superb and does everything you would expect a J model to do, and more. You have to be sure that you have the time, patience, stamina, finances, love of the project and desire to see it through to the end. My saving grace is I had the resources to turn a difficult project into the end product that I have. If I spent as much time and effort to turn it into an average airplane, it would not have been as rewarding. You will not be able to assess the extent of those resources needed now, but will be clearly apparent when you are involved in the project Your best guess of what it will take to make this into a nice J is only a guess at this stage. My guess is, you will not be able to make this an nice and reliable aircraft for an additional $20,000.00. I would double or triple that amount, and this is only to restore the aircraft back to what it was when it was flying. That does not include any upgrades. That being said, the rebuilding of the plane can be a rewarding experience. You will need a hangar in which to work, and all the shop tools necessary to work on anything on the airplane. You could even use your the experience, under the supervision of your local A&P, to build the hours to get your own A&P license. Then you will have accomplished the restoration of your aircraft and more. Hire good people to help you, and treat them well. My mistake was I hired and managed people from a distance. Bad move. That all got better when I hired excellent mechanics when were good honest people. I hope that helps. John Breda

I spoke with Brittain 2 days ago. They have a mold which produced rubber parts that were took think. They are working on that issue and wxpect to be able to supply parts soon. They have a waiting list. I would put yourself on that list at this time. It will also help them assess the demand for the parts. John Breda

I Last year I needed to add a third antenna and the manufacturer (a well known maker on the west coast but will not be named) couldn't be bothered with the alteration. Given that I am in Boston, I went to a RI sail maker and got the work done in about three hours locally. No shipping, no hassle, no arrogance. John

Depending what equipment you will be putting in, I have a panels which I made but did not use in my F rebuild. One is for steam gauges, and another is for Garmin G600, etc stuff. If you want to send me an e-mail I can probably dig up some pictures. The panels may be useful. John Breda

I have a Robotow tug which I am not using so I am offering it for sale. It is in excellent condition and used very little. These sell new for $1456.00. I am asking $1100.00 plus shipping. I naturally comes with the battery and charger. The battery holds a full charge. I can post some pictures in a few days once I get to the hangar. You can call me at (617) 877-0025 or e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com Thanks, John Breda

Can someone post pictures of the needle and tow limit placard, or other such placards that seem to work. It seems that you would need a direct indication, and no one will take the time and thought to determine what 15 degrees of center really looks and feels like.

I have a Robotow (electric) which works well but I am not using it - for the right price I would consider selling it. I also have a Powertow which I am not using that I may be willing to sell as well. I am using a Sidewinder, which is more expensive, also works well, but can be folded and taken apart for traveling. If interested in the Robotow, give me a call at (617) 877-0025, or e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com John Breda

As a result of a recent thread, I watched Don Maxwell's video on hot starts. He suggests essentially leaving things alone from the last shut down (As is the essential procedure in the POH) but also ads that you can use the mixture as a throttle. I tried this 3 times, the engine started all 3 times, but also backfired all 3 times. Perhaps I has heavy handed on the mixture, but I don't like the backfiring. Any thoughts? John Breda

I will be arriving Wed late afternoon. I would be up for a meeting later in the week as well. John Breda

The process is: 1) Rebuild the airplane completely so you know where everything is, what the parts are and what they do 2) By more tools than you need so you will have what you need when you need it 3) By more hardware than you need for the same reason in #2 4) Fix everything once, so you now know the best way to work on the airplane when it is together recognizing that nothing is as accessible in the same way as when it was apart and being rebuilt. John Breda

I have a checklist that I have been working on. It is in a booklet format. It included the usual stuff, plus some more, as well as the performance charts from the 1968 POH. I can share. Perhaps others have some ideas. I was able to print it out in booklet format when I was using PC's. Now that I am using a MAC, it is more difficult. Anyone who has a M20F (or even J) checklist and/or POH in electronic format, I would be happy to receive it to my e-mail which is john.breda@gmail.com Easier to go through e-mail than upload/download here. Thanks, John Breda

I bought a Cool Scoop used but have not installed it as I do not want to put something permanently on the window. Given the cheap investment, I was going to try to cut it up and make it so it will not fall outside of the window, insure the window was protected, and simply put it in place manually while on the ground to increase air flow into the cabin. Has anyone tried something like this?

I will not be there until Wed night (7/26), leaving Sunday (7/30). Anything going on later in the week? John Breda

The answer is simple, if you make them you can make them out of any material you want (and whatever shape/dimension you want). I was questioning in my mind if a hard plastic or nylon would be preferred, and maybe even concaving the outside of the roller to confirm to the shape of the rail. They may roll easier however if the outside is flat given less contact area. John Breda

Tim: I thought I would say welcome. I am the owner of a highly modified F (now essentially a turbo normalized J, with modern avionics and manual gear). I am located in the westerns suburbs of Boston (Newton/Needham/Wellesley area. Not knowing what your situations is, a turbonormalized F or J can be a great airplane for simplicity, maintenance and without compromising much else. John Breda

OK guys, I my past life as a symphonic clarinetist, I used to make clarinets and parts. This required a 6 foot South Bend lathe and the associated machine tools which I still have. I can make a bunch of these if there is interest, cheaper than the current suppliers. Maybe $5-$6 apiece. Need to find a good material to work with. I can make them preety much out of anything including the plastics, nylon, even soft metals like aluminum or brass. Making them out of metal would be a bit more time intensive. Can someone send me the diameter, thickness and center hole size? My seats are from a 1998 Ovation. I would think the diameter should be similar to the originals as the pins only stick down so far. As for the seat stops, use a cotter pin and bend the long arm up and over the seat rail. John Breda

I can only comment relative to Skybolt fasteners as when I did my rebuild I used all Skybolt. I have two sizes 4000 series which are adjustable and give no problems at all. I also have 2000 fasterners and have the large that will not pull through. There is only a few thousanths of an inch in hole size which keeps the fastener on the cowling when removed. I discussed this with Skybolt and they sent me a nylon washer which works well. It is installed on the 2000 series fastener, inside the "T," between the T and the barrel. When the fastener and cowling are installed, the nylon washer fits between the 2 cowling parts (thus also offering some wear protection). When the cowling is removed, they keep the fattener from falling out of the hole in the cowling. I have the part No. but just not here. John Breda

Here is a solution you might try which has helped significantly for me. I have the seat belts from a 1998 Ovation. Since they are made by Amsafe, I look to them for a solution and spoke with one of the engineers there. Installing a longer belt (from floor to buckle) will move the buckle toward the pilot's lap, but will also disturb the geometry of the shoulder belt. Installing a shorter belt (floor to buckle) retains the geometry and moves the pilot's buckle down and away from his offending thumb. The belt is now about 3" shorter and has essentially solved the problem. A repair station for AMSAFE and my DER assisted in the creation of the shorter seat strap. John Breda

Great idea and great job compiling the data. Please add me to the map and send me the interactive link. John Breda

Marauder: Very clean install and offering good functionality. The L3 units are a nice addition. ..You forgot the TIT gauge though and all the hardware necessary to make it work... John Breda

Hard part to find. I got mine on a set of Ovation yokes that I purchased. You probably will need to get it from Mooney. John Breda

I am in the Boston area and would like to meet if I have the day off. Please advise when meeting. John Breda