M20F-1968

Skeptical John: Yes you can change the size of the O2 tank you have onboard. I installed an Oxygen system from an Ovation (115 cubic Ft) into my F model, but then decided to downsize the tank to 50 cubic Ft due to weight savings. I used a Cessna Oxygen system POH and used that data based on 1 50 c ft tank to write the new fill instructions and usage times. This was previously FAA approved data. The FAA just signed off my new POH. I started with the Mooney Oxygen POH and entered the preapproved Cessna data where necessary. I do not have the O2 tanks, but I do have the scott O2 tank brackets for the 115 cubic ft tank should you need them

When I redid my panel, one of the goals was to allow access through the front of the panel. The circuit breaker panel was designed to come out and flop down onto your lap. It comes out with a few (about 4) screws, is hard wired with no canon plugs, and has a long enough service loop of wire to drop onto your lap. It can be take out to be worked on in 5 minutes or less. If redesigning the circuit breaker, this should be a goal. There is a 0.090" circuit breaker panel into which the circuit breakers are installed, and a lighted overlay with the circuit breakers labeled engraved and illuminated. Some food for thought. John Breda

I have a couple of canopy covers I could part with. Good price. I can take some pictures when next out at the hangar. I also have a set of wing covers I do not need as well. John Breda

I have a plane that I sent to Air Mods that has a good wing. It was parted out by its prior owner as his wife was an attorney and did not want to sell it as an operating aircraft as her husband did all the maintenance for years. It is from a 1967 F. The plane was an excellent F model that needed storage. Air Mods picked it up. It is still there the wing is available. The plan was a joint involvement should we sell parts. You can contact me at (617) 877-0025, or e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com. John Breda

F model ailerons, flaps, elevators? Fuel selector, flap pumps? Please advise John Breda

I have a 68 F, but it has a J model flap and trim indicator (which is DER approved) and is cable driven. I have the trim indicator set so I reference a specific line on the indicator as to where I want the trim for take-off. The broad box labeled "Take Off" from the factory is way to wide a range. The setting I use is not too much different from the general ranges where I fly the plane. I am not vigorously trimming on take off nor on landing, but using the trim to relieve control pressures. The trim is not a control surface! You will want to take the trim indicator mechanism apart and verify that everything moves freely and that the cable is not binding at all. When you put everything back together, use a rigging board to confirm adequate trim adjustment. You will want to rotate at 65 kts. Use 1 pump of flaps for take-off Put up gear first, once positive rate of climb and end of runway obtained. raise flaps only after the gear is up and you have positive rate of climb. Keep full throttle to altitude Climb at Vx or Vy until at least pattern altitude, then transition to cruise climb about 105 kts. To transition to cruise, close cowl flaps, push the nose over, allow speed to build and then make your throttle and prop adjustments. John Breda

This could be an easy fix. I had a similar problem with J model cowl flaps. There is a single spring that attaches on the right side, and can be accessed through the right open cowl. Find a similar spring (I found one locally, same size, diameter and wire gauge) tried it ant it worked. $1.50 fix. Bought another 6 springs for the shelf. John Breda

I installed the Ovation landing lights in an F model, and then installed the HID lights in the Ovation landing light housings. I purchased mine from another supplier, but I was told they are the same that Precise Flight was using. John Breda

I use a device call an IPro Navigator for the Ipad mini. The ipad has never overheated in flight. The cover acts as a glareshield for the ipad. John Breda John Breda

Sorry, I did not mean to say web site, I meant to say my profile on Mooneyspace. John Breda

I felt the need to chime in. I rebuilt a 1968 F model that had sat in a hangar in Dallas for 26 years. It had been taken apart (engine, gear, panel, interior) and then put back together only to have it in one piece. No damage Hx. 1975 hours when purchased. The engine was field overhauled to new specs in 1982, I did an IRAN with Penn Yan Aero. The engine has 200 hours to date, filters have been clean and no problems as of yet. I put a new Hartzell prop on it when the eddy current AD came out. You can see pictures of it now on my web site. Others have commented that the only way you can tell it is an F is by seeing that it has a Johnson Bar. It was recently professionally appraised at $206,000.00. As you can see, you can rebuild anything. Take all the numbers you would expect to pay for something and multiply by 2 or 3 (unless you are doing the work yourself and are confident you can do it correctly and legally). John Breda

I have some additional thoughts on the door mechanism and adjusting it. 1) I believe all the Mooney doors have a circular mechanism that provides for over center locking. 2) You want to adjust the two horizontal rods inside the door so they start as far away from each other initially (forward aspect) and after locking come very close to each other and nearly touching when locked. 3) Once you get the mechanism adjusted so the outside latch closes and remains parallel to the door, then try to adjust the door so that it closes properly when using the inside latch. 4) Then, for those who have this adjustment, adjust the top mechanism (for me it is the clothes-pin mechanism by adjusting how far the both sticks out) until the outside handle works properly. (For others with a top hook, there may be another type of top adjustment for the length of the hook). I had some trouble with my door (which was originally adjusted without interior in but not covered with cloth). As soon as I put the cloth on, the door needed to be readjusted. It is that tight. Now both the outside and inside handles when operated have a positive over center feel and the outside handle definitively pops toward the door and remains flush. John Breda

Give me a call. I have a room in Green Bay but would have to dive there. I would be up to staying nearby. My phone is (617) 877-0025. e-mail: john.breda@gmail.com I have not checked the weather yet. Thanks, John Breda

You will want to use the bearing assembly that is in the last picture. That is current production. To do it right, you might want to TIG weld a steel plate onto you structural cage (horizontal bar) if you do not have something solid to attach the frames to. When I did mine, I had the plane apart. I do not know what degree of disassembly your plane is in. John Breda

I plan on flying in from Massachusetts Monday. I can be a tentative for Monday 6pm if I arrive on time. Otherwise, I plan on leaving Thursday so could also meet on Tues or Wed. John Breda

If it is helpful for you, I have a panel which I originally made using steam gauges and a King HSI to go into my F. I was installed in the F for a ferry flight back in 2009 but then taken out as I changed the avionics to Garmin glass. I have the panel which I will not use. It may save you a bunch of time and money. I have some pictures I can send you with it installed in the airplane with avionics. John Breda john.breda@gmail.com

I am the high bidder of your Sidewinder within the last minute of the auction. The manufacturer indicated that the chrome arm on the unit dates it back at least 3 years. You indicated in the post that it was practically new. I just wanted to contact you to get an update on the history of the unit. Is the battery labeled M28 or V28? How old is the unit? John Breda

I can attest to the Soundex insulation. A link is supplied to Aircraft Spruce in another post and quoted here. It is lighter than most. I used it between the windows and floor and in the baggage compartment. It is just installed between the structural tubes. It is not glued in. I used fiberglass encapsulated in sealed bags in the roof (as it is very light) and it is held in place with aluminum tape. You do not want to use the insulation that sticks to the skin. Makes a mess and you can never inspect the airframe fully again. John Breda

Brian Kendrick works in San Marcos. He has plenty of Mooney experience, years with Mod Works and then hired by Mooney where he was a manager for the Mooney Service Center. PM me and I'll put you in touch with him. John Breda

I took two weeks off to fly cross country. Would like to stop at Oshkosh but I do not want to deal with the craziness. I am considering landing at one of the nearby airports, renting a car and camping out on the North 40 if possible. I am thinking of coming in on Sun and staying until about Wed. Any recommendations? John Breda john.breda@gmail.com

Your best fix is to either: 1) reskin the aileron, or 2) buy a new one\ This is what you have insurance for. To reskin, get in touch with Beegles Aircraft, Colorado. They do great work. Ship it to them and they will take good care of you. There is also another company, Williams Airmotive who can also reskin it. I have experience with Beegles and they are great. I bough new ailerons when I did my rebuild. As I recall I paid about $4000 for the two of them in 2008. John Breda

Mike: I look forward to being there from Thursday night through Sunday afternoon. Count me in. John Breda john.breda@gmail.com

I bought mine off of e-bay as well. It had been in a hangar in TX for many years. I too slipped a digit and was off on my bid by a factor of ten. Negotiated a pre-buy and Russell Stallings took it more apart than it already was. Then I had a couple of guys from the Mooney factory look at it, negotiated a price and then paid for it. Knowingly bought it as a project airplane. The rest is history after many years. John Breda

You can purchase online some Plexiglass type tubing (say in 3 foot lengths). Wall thickness can be about 1/8". Cut it to length, long enough go it can not drop into the tank. Fill tank every 5 gallons, let settle, and make a mark with a file. You can mark it with numbers later (perhaps even a steel numbering set to make a number impression in the plexiglass). That way you have a set of calibrated for your tanks. John Breda

You might try sources of piano wire. John Breda