Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'm20c'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General
    • General Mooney Talk
    • Modern Mooney Discussion
    • Vintage Mooneys (pre-J models)
    • Miscellaneous Aviation Talk
    • Bug Reports & Suggestions
    • Videos
    • Avionics/Panel Discussion
  • Group Specific Forums
    • Florida Mooney Flyers
    • Mooney Bravo Owners
    • Mooney Caravan
    • European Mooney Pilots
    • Mooney Summit
  • Trading Post
    • Selling Aircraft
    • Avionics / Parts For Sale
    • Selling Hangars / Aviation Real Estate

Blogs

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.

Categories

  • Engine Reference Manuals

Categories

  • Articles
    • Forum Integration
    • Frontpage
  • Pages
  • Miscellaneous
    • Databases
    • Templates
    • Media

Categories

  • New Features
  • Other

Calendars

  • Community Calendar

Found 93 results

  1. About time I fessed up

    August 2016 I was delivering my Mooney M20c to my mechanic, Bobby Norman, at the Parr airport (42I) in Zanesville Ohio. I had interaction with Bobby years ago, and he came highly recommended by a number of local Mooney owners. I had thought the field was about 2300 feet (wrong, more on that later) so coming in over the trees I pulled the power to idle, put it in a forward slip and came down. 75mph over the numbers, flared and BANG!. Hardest landing I'd ever done in anything. At the top of the bounce I had a choice, and decided to ride it out. I was uncomfortable trying to go around at a short strip in that predicament. The aircraft bounced a couple more times and stopped, and I taxied back. I had struck the prop in that landing, quite badly. The prop was bent asymmetrically, and the craskshaft busted. I hit hard enough that the force went through the gear into the Johnson bar, wrecking the mechanism that holds it in place (Bobby only figured that part out when he started taxiing. He said it was quite exciting). It took 9 months for the tear down, prop repair, and everything else. The engine repairs were done by a very reputable shop, and the aircraft is now back in service. I just did the first oil change after the teardown. I would have overhauled the engine at this juncture, but it only had 700 hours, and I didn't have the money. What I did wrong: The first thing is entirely insidious. I should have checked the length of the field, since it is now a very comfortable 3k feet. Why didn't I? Because the last time I was there it was 2300 feet! Hardest thing in the world is to override personal experience, but sometimes we really have to. Of course, the other big thing was pulling the power over the trees. Once I got into the runway environment the aircraft didn't have the energy to overcome the sink. Why pull power? Normally in this situation I maintain 12-13" manifold pressure, and use a forward slip. Indeed, most of my landings done this way are well within 2K feet. So why did I change? Worry about a field that I thought (incorrectly) was short. Even if it was 2300, I could have landed the Mooney in it just following my normal procedures. Talk about rubbing salt in the wound. What I did right: riding it out and letting it settle turned out to be the perfect move. I had an asymmetric prop, a badly damaged engine, and I was at a somewhat short and very narrow strip surrounded by hills and mountains. I don't know what would have happened had I put in the power, but it wouldn't have been good. Sometimes its just better not to add extra energy to a bad situation. Perhaps if you don't you'll prang the airplane, but if you do you get to be the one pranged. I recall a fatal TBM accident nearly identical to mine, the aircraft landed hard and struck the prop. The only difference is that guy put in the power at the top of the bounce, and now he's dead. I can't put into words what this did to me. If you noticed me gone for an extended period, its because I couldn't show my face after this. I think one thing might give you an idea, today is the first day I'm thinking I'll actually stick with this aviation thing. I've sort of been on the fence thinking about bailing for the last year. With any luck this will help someone not make the mistake I did. At least it had one silver lining. Hopefully I'll never say I landed worse.
  2. So it seems like every time I fly something else breaks. Today it was my panel lighting. The dimmer switch functions as an on/off and dimmer rheostat. They were fine a couple weeks ago but tonight the switch just turns the lights on and off but no dimming. Pretty sure the switch isn't original as the panel was modded years ago with post lights. Any idea of a particular part number, replacement switch or a way to troubleshoot the current rheostat?
  3. First time caller, but I've been lurking for a bit. It looks like I will be entering a partnership on a 1963 M20C. If all goes well on the annual next week, I'm in. Super excited about it and I have learned quite a bit from this forum already. I am a 100 hour pilot with all of my time in Cessnas, primarily the 172. I'm only a few hours from my instrument checkride and I've been flying quite a bit in the last year. The person from whom I'm purchasing the share is a CFI and we are planning extensive transition training for me. I've been reading the recent threads on landings with great interest. What are the watch outs for me and what should we emphasize in the training? Thanks in advance for the thoughts!
  4. Pattern Work at KHFY M20C

    THANK YOU GARMIN. Starting to have some fun with the Virb that I won at AirVenture. The camera's altimeter is at times about 100ft off, but the picture is amazing. Win have to connect audio next! https://youtu.be/m0XoRCJ_XcU
  5. Does anyone know if Brittain has bellows for a 1965 M20C retractable step. I read a few threads that are a couple years old that mentioned they were having problems with that particular part. I noticed today that I did not hear the unmistakeable "thunk" when I shut my motor off. Investigation revealed a 2-3 inch split on the bottom of the bellows by the pulley wheel. I did a quick repair with 3M electrical tape but it doesn't appear to be working and I can't find a volunteer to stick their head out the baggage door while flying to check on the step... I'll call Brittain on Monday but often times Mooneyspace can get the answer a bit faster...
  6. Currently have a 1/3 interest available in my other plane 1963 M20C (pictures are in my album on here) for anyone that maybe interested. I think it will be a great deal for someone looking to fly on a budget. Here is the basic details of the partnership. Upfront cost $12k for plane, $500 deposit for maintenance and owners account and around $500 for 1/3 of the insurance. Monthly cost $200 to cover hanger exp, next basic annual (due April), and next insurance pmt plus $20 and hour (dry) for any extra items that come up in annual and future upgrades/rebuilds.
  7. I am based at Hooks in the Houston area and have recently bought a second plane which has a RayJay turbo. I am very pleased with my purchase seems like she is going to be a really good bird. My problem is that the owner cannot locate any info on the turbo. I have never flown a turbo and do not want to "Burn it Up" first time out. The previous owner mostly flew it without turbo and so far that is what I have done as well. Here are the basics 1976 M20F and the RayJay Turbo also installed in 1976. The pilot who flew the plane down from Utah said it worked flawlessly on his flight. Any help and advice would be great. BTW - I currently have a 1/3 interest available in my other plane 1963 M20C (pictures are in my album on here) for anyone that maybe interested. I think it will be a great deal for someone looking to fly on a budget. Here is the basic details of the partnership. Upfront cost $12k for plane, $500 deposit for maintenance and owners account and around $500 for 1/3 of the insurance. Monthly cost $200 to cover hanger exp, next basic annual (due April), and next insurance pmt plus $20 and hour (dry) for any extra items that come up in annual and future upgrades/rebuilds.
  8. Well after 14 years on the ground I'm back in the game with my new to me Ranger. 10 hrs of transition training and five hours of solo under my belt but a lot left to learn. Huge step up from the 152 I did my PP training in. Only problem so far is starting. When the engine is cold it fires right up no problem. However, when it is heat soaked (landing for fuel and taking off shortly after) it does not want to start. Paying more attention to the stages my starter engages when I turn the key to start but the shower of sparks does not start until I push in the key. Is this wired in reverse? Again it works great when cold but the starter stops immediately when I push the key in on a warm engine. If I go from the start position back to both (bypassing the sos) the engine starts fine. My IA returns from vacation next week and I want to order the parts for him. Picture of the plane all tucked in.
  9. Hello all, I'd like to pick your brains on a problem which has been driving me slightly miffed in recent weeks. I own my C model since 2009 and since then, usually start up was never a problem at all. Our procedure as set was always the same: - Electrical fuel pump on, till pressure shows, then off. - Priming 6-8 times with the throttle (cold engine) or 2-4 times (warm engine) - Engage starter and the engine would run. Since this year, start up has become a real pain. I've had to leave the airplane two times unable to start it, had to request mechanic assistance (ext power) twice more and I keep getting feedbacks from the other pilots. The engine turns, most of the time fires shortly but when you disengage the starter,it stops. In subsequent tries,it either never ever fires again or again just once or twice. What we found is that during the start up one has to pump vigorously with the throttle, which sometimes leads to a start. 2nd and 3rd start after the engine has run is unproblematic, even though even then pumping the throttle is required. In two unsucessfull attempts, the engine definitly was drowned, with fuel leaking on the front tyre. Two of the pilots report they have NO problems at all and think we are too stupid simply. Well, it's possible,but we follow the exactly same procedure (one of them filmed it) and have no success. As I said, the previous years we never had any problem whatsoever. Maintenance has looked at it and found nothing wrong, even though they also were unable to start the engine at least once. They report, plugs and magnetoes are fine, carburettor as well. My feel is the engine does not get enough fuel the first start, then finding a good mix for starting in following attempts is difficult. Any idea on where to start looking would be appreciated. We have a major problem with this, as our airport has departure slots and we can't afford dicking around with the engine for hours every time we want to go flying. I also feel this is not how a standard O360 A1D should behave. Thanks a lot.
  10. I always look over the NTSB databases when I get a new airplane (all three times...) and did so not so long ago. What struck me was for my aircraft (M20c) with but a few exceptions all the accidents in the East were survivable, most without serious injuries. Fatal accidents, nearly all of them, occurred out west or in mountains. Haven't yet checked for any other Mooneys.
  11. I have started to question anything done on my airplane and since I can't get to my mechanic on a day to day basis - I turn to the mooneyspacers for info. Today's questions: 1965 M20C Oil Cooler. The fittings are facing inboard...is this correct or should they be on the outboard side? 2nd question: The aircraft has a fuel flow transducer installed between the fuel pump and the carb. The fuel line has has a 360 degree loop when it looks like the hose could have run directly from the transducer to the carb. Is it more proper to have the big loop or should I have a hose made that runs directly from the FF transducer? Lastly - is that an indication of an exhaust leak at the muffler? - (its a minor leak at the junction of the adjacent fitting) Bottom line - None of the hoses have manufacture dates, test dates or other info on them or any data plates so they are going to be replaced before annual because they could be from 1965...or who knows when.
  12. I am looking at buying a M20D converted to RG and I was wondering what to expect for cruise speed? My first flight was around 135kt indicated, not sure if that is slow or reasonable. I would like to know if I would expect different results from a true M20C. Secondly, Anything I should be aware of in owning a M20D? Thanks much!
  13. I just pruchased an M20D what converted to an M20C. The overhead fresh air vent is not operating properly. After remove the headline it appears the cable has disconnected at the door. The knob side cable is connected and appears to move when the knob is rotated. I'd like to reconnect or replace this cable however there doesn't appear to be a way to remove the water tight aluminum enclosure around the vent to access the cable termination/vent mechanism without removing the rivets that hold this enclosure to the top of the fuselage. Am I missing something? Is there a way to access this cable end without removing rivets? Thanks.
  14. The title may say it all... still educating myself on the breed. I still think I'm looking for an E, but I'd like to learn as much as I can on the unique traits of each model. For example, they built a lot of C's, but ended production of D's after a fairly brief run. I kind of wish Gordon Baxter was still around, I remember he was a real champion of Mooney and he'd probably have a lot to say (still). Thanks.
  15. New member owner of 62 M20C. Power supply to wingtip strobes is dead. Anyone have an extra laying around for sale or any options on a reasonable conversion to LED? Thanks
  16. My gear horn decided it doesn't need to wait until 12" to come on anymore. It varies, but is usually 14-15", although a couple of times it started buzzing around 16", which is totally unacceptable. Where is the stinking microswitch located??? I've taken apart the throttle quadrant but didn't see it. Today I looked all along the carb and no dice behind it, either. Where is it hiding? For what it's worth, my C is all electric, 1970. Thanks, ya'll.
  17. WTB 69 or below M20C

    Hey everyone, I'm on the hunt for a decent M20C from the year 69 and below. Looking for an airplane that is a regular flyer and not an airplane that has flat tires and hasn't seen 2000 feet in 10 years. Looking for a plane with maybe some newer avionics, not glass cockpit but maybe an autopilot system, and a Garmin 430 or newer. Finally, looking for a plane with a newer paint job, but if not thats fine! Im located in BC Canada but will be willing to fly to get a decent airplane. Thanks!
  18. looking at this aircraft now. asking $59,900.00. what you guys think?
  19. 1969 N9371V M20 C Ranger asking for $69,500 from MD advertised on Trade a plane. http://www.trade-a-plane.com/search?category_level1=Single+Engine+Piston&make=MOONEY&model=M20C+RANGER&listing_id=2200345&s-type=aircraft
  20. Great shape, complete logs, no damage, maintenance current, and ready to go! Please email Cynthia for more detail cschanno@jcaviation.net or 651-688-6634
  21. FOR Sale: Hartzell Top Prop and Composite Spinner including logbook and all accompanying documentation. For M20 A-G. TTSN 65.3 (2400 TBO) and in excellent condition. Installed in December 2015 and removed in Sept 2016. This prop was on our new-to-us M20E and was incredibly smooth for a two-bladed prop; there were / are no issues with it whatsoever. The prop's model number is HC C2YR 1BFP/7497 PRICE: $7450, shipping included (Lower 48). These kits can be bought new excluding shipping for about $9400 from Hartzell or $8400 from a dealer. The prop itself can be used on a J model but it appears a different spinner is needed. Please message me via this site or call (360) 281-7022 with questions or to request additional photos.
  22. Throwing this out for fun but largely pointless discussion: Kerrville stopped putting dorsal fins on the M20C in my year (1968), and this omission remained through the last year of the model in 1978. As far as I can tell, every single other metal wing M20 ever made has a dorsal fin. So why the heck did they take it off all the later Cs? They started making some other cost cutting changes that year, but i can't imagine not riveting that simple aluminum piece on one model saves very much. Google says dorsal fins add yaw stability. My short body has many wonderful traits, but yaw stability in turbulence is NOT one of them. In turbulence, the tail wags quite a bit and helps rear sear passengers who sit further off the CG axis get all pukey. But I would imagine adding yaw stability also decreases rudder effectiveness? So, has anyone here put a dorsal fin on their '68-'78 C model? Does it improve anything, other than help the plane feel like it fits in better with its siblings? It's a $500 Lasar mod part that I bet is easy to install but hardly seems like a priority.
  23. Beautiful 1965 Mooney M20C. S/N 2825, 180HP, 2510 TTAF, 1007 SMOH, Full IFR, Electric Gear, 3 Blade Hartzell Prop, Nice paint, Leather Interior, Garmin GNS 430, Strobes, EGT, Dual PTT, PS Engineering Intercom, KX165 Nav/Comm, KT76A Transponder, Century IIB Autopilot, Always Hangared, Full Logs, Engine pre-heat. This is a super nice updated and maintained M20C. 9/9. Pro Pilot Owned. July Annual. • $49000 360-269-8270
  24. Howdy fellow Mooney owners. The time has come for me to list my beloved C model, and I would greatly appreciate some assistance in determining a reasonable asking price. Currently altered priorities make it difficult to justify continued ownership. Fortunately, a friend of mine is looking to get into a partnership in a newer Mooney in about 2-3 years and that should fall in line with when I'll be looking to own a plane again. Since the vintage mooney valuation tool is no longer maintained, I thought I'd ask you guys for some help. Edit: I probably should have mentioned originally, that the engine has solid compression on all cylinders, and doesn't use oil (or any more than any other lycoming that I've ever flown.) Specifics are as follows: Times Tach Total Time: 3821 Tach Time SMOH: 1800 Tach Total Flight Time: 2200 Time Since Prop Overhaul: 500 Time Since Prop Reseal / Repaint : 50 Time Since Mags Overhauled : 50 Time Since Tank Reseal: 4 hours (right), 50 hours (left) General No Damage History Continuous Logs Intact and Available (Hard Copy and Digital) Corrosion Free Panel PS Engineering 8000B Audio Panel - With audio recorder / playback and Auxiliary MP3 input Garmin GTN-650 WAAS GPS / Nav / Comm Garmin GI-106A CDI / Glideslope TKM MX11 Digital Secondary Comm NARCO NAV-122 Secondary NAV/ILS/LOC NARCO TSO 150 Mode-C Transponder Strike Finder Digital Tach Digital Davtron Chronometer / OAT / Voltmeter Upgrades LASAR 201 Windshield - Less than 100 hours on new windshield Upgraded 1/4" Windows Whelen LED Landing Light Whelen LED Beacon Whelen High Intensity Belly Strobe Retrofit standard 6-pack instrument panel Alternator conversion STC (factory power was via generator) Aero-Comfort Custom Leather wrapped yokes with dual PTT SkyTec Lightweight / Highspeed Starter Brittain Accutrak II coupled to primary and secondary nav Precise Flight Backup Vacuum System LED Ring lights on instruments (dimmable) LED Interior Map Lights (dimmable) New Prop control cable and modern vernier New Mixture control cable and modern vernier CorrosionX treatment Powerflow Exhaust
  25. I've been on here quite a bit looking for a solution to the high CHT problem with my C. A related problem was leaning. Sometimes I couldn't get below 11 gph and EGT's were all over the place. CHT's were also all over the place with the front cylinders up to 60 degrees cooler than the rear, or specifically #4. I've been told C's just run hot. I used up a tube of RTV plugging every hole, seam, etc in the baffling. It was suggested the the carburetor might be wrong or need overhauling. I even thought I should switch the O360 out for an IO360 to be rid of the carburetor. I've experimented with all types of power settings and mixture settings. The only thing that seemed to help at all, was to reduce prop RPM as early as possible and as low as possible. And I'd never been able to close the cowl flaps without raising the CHT's too high. The solution I recently discovered is throttle position. At WOT and Full Rich mixture, everything is fine. But as the mixture is pulled back, the CHT's would go way too high, and I know the engine's not meant to be run full rich at say, 6000 ft. Solution: Prior to pulling the mixture back, pull the throttle back just until the MP needle moves 1/2", then push the throttle back in just enough to get the 1/2" back. Leave the throttle there and adjust mixture as required the rest of the flight. Now I can leave the Prop RPM high or at least around 2500 throughout the climb. CHT and EGT's are all much closer between cylinders now, and CHT's are lower across the board. I've tested this on four different 1.5 hour flights and two 4+ hour flights with excellent results. It's been said on this board before, that WOT with the O360 carburetor opens an additional port or jet dumping extra fuel. It seemed counter intuitive to me to reduce that extra fuel as a means of reducing CHT. And I'd tried pulling the throttle back just a bit, but it obviously wasn't enough. I have to pull it back enough to reduce MP and then put it back just enough to get the MP back. So now I'm speculating that the extra fuel works fine at full rich mixture, but when leaning, it's somehow messing with the distribution of fuel, and putting some cylinders too rich and others too lean. This picture is at 12,500 nicely LOP and running smooth as butter. I neglected to get a picture of the CHT/EGT screen but will do that on the next flight.