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Found 101 results

  1. After finishing the written, I recently started training for the IR in my '68 C. This thread serves to address learning snags along the way, particularly those specific to my model. As an initial step, I adapted the "IFR by the Numbers" table in the MAPA Proficiency Course for the C model to my own format: I've found a good experienced instructor who has taught in the proficiency course before, so Mooney ignorance is not a barrier. However the old J-bar birds may present some distinct challenges, and I want to refine my model-specific knowledge and modify procedures based on the real world experience of people here. Two initial issues to address from my lesson yesterday: (1) Configuring for a precision approach descent as in the MAPA guide (2300, 18", gear/flaps up) leaves me WAY faster than the 120mph on the chart to stay on glideslope - more like 140mph. Then I had to chop power and level off to get to the 120mph gear speed, which still put me irretrievably above glideslope. What approach settings do others use, and how do they slow to gear speed around the FAF (assuming they need to keep speed up prior to that)? (2) Going missed with the J-bar has its own issue - I have to get the speed down to <90mph or the gear retract is going to be physically undoable. What procedures do folks use related to getting the gear up when going missed? So far I've left the gear down when going around vfr to keep things simple, so I don't have any hardwired habits to help me. Also any other tips and/or deviations from the above numbers that people find handy in the J-bar C model or similar birds?
  2. steingar

    About time I fessed up

    August 2016 I was delivering my Mooney M20c to my mechanic, Bobby Norman, at the Parr airport (42I) in Zanesville Ohio. I had interaction with Bobby years ago, and he came highly recommended by a number of local Mooney owners. I had thought the field was about 2300 feet (wrong, more on that later) so coming in over the trees I pulled the power to idle, put it in a forward slip and came down. 75mph over the numbers, flared and BANG!. Hardest landing I'd ever done in anything. At the top of the bounce I had a choice, and decided to ride it out. I was uncomfortable trying to go around at a short strip in that predicament. The aircraft bounced a couple more times and stopped, and I taxied back. I had struck the prop in that landing, quite badly. The prop was bent asymmetrically, and the craskshaft busted. I hit hard enough that the force went through the gear into the Johnson bar, wrecking the mechanism that holds it in place (Bobby only figured that part out when he started taxiing. He said it was quite exciting). It took 9 months for the tear down, prop repair, and everything else. The engine repairs were done by a very reputable shop, and the aircraft is now back in service. I just did the first oil change after the teardown. I would have overhauled the engine at this juncture, but it only had 700 hours, and I didn't have the money. What I did wrong: The first thing is entirely insidious. I should have checked the length of the field, since it is now a very comfortable 3k feet. Why didn't I? Because the last time I was there it was 2300 feet! Hardest thing in the world is to override personal experience, but sometimes we really have to. Of course, the other big thing was pulling the power over the trees. Once I got into the runway environment the aircraft didn't have the energy to overcome the sink. Why pull power? Normally in this situation I maintain 12-13" manifold pressure, and use a forward slip. Indeed, most of my landings done this way are well within 2K feet. So why did I change? Worry about a field that I thought (incorrectly) was short. Even if it was 2300, I could have landed the Mooney in it just following my normal procedures. Talk about rubbing salt in the wound. What I did right: riding it out and letting it settle turned out to be the perfect move. I had an asymmetric prop, a badly damaged engine, and I was at a somewhat short and very narrow strip surrounded by hills and mountains. I don't know what would have happened had I put in the power, but it wouldn't have been good. Sometimes its just better not to add extra energy to a bad situation. Perhaps if you don't you'll prang the airplane, but if you do you get to be the one pranged. I recall a fatal TBM accident nearly identical to mine, the aircraft landed hard and struck the prop. The only difference is that guy put in the power at the top of the bounce, and now he's dead. I can't put into words what this did to me. If you noticed me gone for an extended period, its because I couldn't show my face after this. I think one thing might give you an idea, today is the first day I'm thinking I'll actually stick with this aviation thing. I've sort of been on the fence thinking about bailing for the last year. With any luck this will help someone not make the mistake I did. At least it had one silver lining. Hopefully I'll never say I landed worse.
  3. Ok. So I’ve run through much of the forums before I’m asking this question. It seems like a number things have changed recently in general aviation. I got my pilots license back when I was 18 y/o in 1999. I learned on a piper warrior. I really haven’t flown in the past 15 years. My log book has something like 100 hrs on it. Money got in the way. Now that I’m 37 I have some more disposable income and would like to get back into flying. I live in the northeast, close to Boston, MA. I’m a 15 min drive from Norwood, ma airport (KOWD). My mission is to fly my wife and I on weekend trips (as close as Martha’s vineyard or may be as far away as Montreal in Canada) with a couple times a year longer cross country flights. We don’t plan on having kids, so room for 2 adults mostly with the occasional couple in the back seat. I don’t want to rent because I like the freedom of owning (no minimum flying or adhering to a schedule). Here’s where I get stuck. I know the most “economical” route would be to buy a piper Cherokee (possibly 140/160/180), build some time and then get a mooney (m20c). BUT, if I was pretty sure I was going to buy a mooney … why not buy your second airplane first? What keeps jamming up my cogs is I recently got into simulator flying with x-plane and VR headsets with real rudder pedals. WOW. I know its not exactly like flying but because I already have my pilots license, I’m not “learning” any bad habits like other simmers who aren’t pilots and just fly. There is even a program called “pilot edge” that you login to and they have real-time ATC. It really is the future and it very cost effective instead of just flying around the pattern for $150/hr. They have very realistic models of Mooneys … I know, I know … you don’t learn everything in a sim but it really does cut down on learning as I can really narrow down my procedures, talking to ATC, etc Ok, after a long winded preamble … I’m looking to saving up some money in the next 2 years to buy a plane. Why not fly in the sim first, gain as much experience as I can and then instead of buying a time-builder … I can skip that step and go to a m20c? Its the plane I really want. Yes, yes … I know insurance will be higher the first year ($1,800 … higher??) . I think eventually I would get my instrument too because I live in the northeast and the weather can be unpredictable. I’m looking to spend some where between $45,000 to $55,000. I’d rather spend more money upfront and buy a better airplane then sink my money slowly into repairs. Something with good avionics and a 2 axis autopilot … I don’t see flying single pilot IFR without one … Ok … so … fly on the sim for 2 years and gain a couple hundred hrs with real time ATC and a virtual mooney .. and then when I’m ready, buy a m20c, find a good mooney flight instructor and get proficient. OR … tell me I’m crazy and I should still build hrs in my flight sim but get a Cherokee and build “real” hrs and then a few years after that get a mooney. Thoughts? It just seems like the future keeps creeping up on us .. VR will only get better as the years go by and training will be even more enhanced. Thanks, John
  4. Just purchased my 1965 M20C on Friday and had my first flight in it today (transitioning from a C172M). We went for 20 minutes in the pattern and on the second take off the fuel pressure went to 0 in/lbs and the engine started stuttering below 400'. She kept running and we continued to climb so we requested priority (we were currently cleared #2) and asked for the intersecting runway. Yes, we could have declared an emergency but there was no need since the controller was already working with us and we were continuing to climb. We made TPA so we requested the primary runway and made an uneventful landing. My second landing in her was with a hiccuping engine and was better than my first landing. You could say I was committed to that landing. She shows good fuel pressure at idle but if you run her up to over 2000rpms she reads 0 fuel pressure with or without the boost pump on and starts stumbling. I wish I'd thought to run her up on the other tank to see if there was a difference but I didn't think about that when we were testing her out after taxing back to my hangar. When I bought her on Friday my mechanic flew her to my home field for me since I bought it at a 2300' grass strip that was a little rough (my insurance requires 5 hours transition training for passengers so I decided not to fly it at all until I've finished that training). My mechanic had no problem with her, but he had her running on the right tank. The left tank was the fuller tank after I had fuel added yesterday so we used the left tank today. If we had more altitude or she had quit completely I would have switched tanks when she started stumbling, but in my mind a stumbling engine that still climbs is better than a quiet engine so I changed nothing and kept flying. The instructor (first time flying with him) was also telling me not to change anything and giving me instructions. Fuel strainer inspection/cleaning is considered Preventive Maintenance and allowed under Part 43 for an owner so I plan on taking a look at her tomorrow now that I've downloaded the parts catalog and the maintenance manual. According to the service manual a 1965 M20C has the strainer on the bottom side of the fuel selector in the nose gear wheel well. Looks like one bolt and it can be removed and inspected/cleaned according to the manual (Page 149 in the parts manual and 2-4 to 2-7 in the service manual). I'm glad we decided to do the first hour of my transition training at my home field before going anywhere else and I'm really glad that the problem didn't pop up on my mechanic while he was flying it back in between fields. It was only a 15 minute flight for him but putting it in a field would have been a bummer. When we get this sorted out I plan on requesting a VCOA for the first flight so we can stay above it in case it happens again. Am I on the right track on what probably caused this and what I should inspect first?
  5. Paul - M20C

    New to me M20C

    New to me M20C
  6. Hey all, Selling (woefully) my C. Details below. $45,000 TTAF: 1836.02 TTE: 972.32 Compression: ; 72-76-74-76; Extensive May 2017 Annual by Mooney Service Center; Overhauled exhaust (new muffler and riser) 5/2017; Magnetos overhauled 5/2016; New gear pucks 3/2016; Fuel bladders; Fresh IFR recertification 4/2018; Prop hub AD n/a; All logs since new; Located 8NC8; Please text or email • Contact Jeff Owner - located DURHAM, NC USA • Telephone: 727-871-2667 Email: JRReynolds7@gmail.com
  7. First, my name is Kevin and I am a 200hr private pilot that has basically only flown a Cessna 150 converted to tail dragger. Recently I made an offer on an M20E and lost out to a higher bid (A big thank you to Brian Nelson (orionflt) for his assistance and knowledge for that offer). Afterwards, I continued my search until I found a C model that met my needs. The only thing was that this aircraft was over 1,300nm away. I decided I would hire a local instructor (Bob Cabe) and fly it home the next day. Long story short, after 3 hrs and 14 take offs and landings on Saturday 3/24 I was checked out and ready to fly it home. I flew my father, who is a pilot also, down with me to San Antonio on Friday night so I could have a copilot for the trip home. Sunday 3/25 we were finally able to take off at 1pm. We made it 415nm and decided to stop for the night at Vicksburg MS (very nice place too). Yesterday, 3/26 we flew the last 918nm home. The trip home was great (averaged just over 135 knots and 9.8gph) minus a vacuum pump failure (took out the autopilot and I hand flew it the rest of the way) which I will address this weekend. Anyway, pictures are worth a thousand more words so here you go...
  8. Hello all, I'd like to pick your brains on a problem which has been driving me slightly miffed in recent weeks. I own my C model since 2009 and since then, usually start up was never a problem at all. Our procedure as set was always the same: - Electrical fuel pump on, till pressure shows, then off. - Priming 6-8 times with the throttle (cold engine) or 2-4 times (warm engine) - Engage starter and the engine would run. Since this year, start up has become a real pain. I've had to leave the airplane two times unable to start it, had to request mechanic assistance (ext power) twice more and I keep getting feedbacks from the other pilots. The engine turns, most of the time fires shortly but when you disengage the starter,it stops. In subsequent tries,it either never ever fires again or again just once or twice. What we found is that during the start up one has to pump vigorously with the throttle, which sometimes leads to a start. 2nd and 3rd start after the engine has run is unproblematic, even though even then pumping the throttle is required. In two unsucessfull attempts, the engine definitly was drowned, with fuel leaking on the front tyre. Two of the pilots report they have NO problems at all and think we are too stupid simply. Well, it's possible,but we follow the exactly same procedure (one of them filmed it) and have no success. As I said, the previous years we never had any problem whatsoever. Maintenance has looked at it and found nothing wrong, even though they also were unable to start the engine at least once. They report, plugs and magnetoes are fine, carburettor as well. My feel is the engine does not get enough fuel the first start, then finding a good mix for starting in following attempts is difficult. Any idea on where to start looking would be appreciated. We have a major problem with this, as our airport has departure slots and we can't afford dicking around with the engine for hours every time we want to go flying. I also feel this is not how a standard O360 A1D should behave. Thanks a lot.
  9. Does anyone know if Brittain has bellows for a 1965 M20C retractable step. I read a few threads that are a couple years old that mentioned they were having problems with that particular part. I noticed today that I did not hear the unmistakeable "thunk" when I shut my motor off. Investigation revealed a 2-3 inch split on the bottom of the bellows by the pulley wheel. I did a quick repair with 3M electrical tape but it doesn't appear to be working and I can't find a volunteer to stick their head out the baggage door while flying to check on the step... I'll call Brittain on Monday but often times Mooneyspace can get the answer a bit faster...
  10. Hello everyone. We purchased a 1967 M20C Nov. 1,2017, and are getting to know it. The Davtron M800M clock that is mounted in the pilot's yoke is inop. I suspect that the second "M" in the model number is for "Mooney". I took out the two mounting screws to look behind. I has no backup battery and is connected by two wires to what I assume is 14VDC. The unit displays nothing. Looking online, the M800M in the M20C is different shaped than the M800 (no second M) currently being sold. The one in my yoke has two mounting screws and a protuberance in the vertical direction to match the shape of the yoke, while the ones presently for sale are just square, and have holes for four mounting screws. Does anyone here know who might fix this or have one for sale? I want to start doing IFR training in this beast, but need a functioning clock. Thanks. I look forward to receiving some guidance.
  11. Currently have a 1/3 interest available in my other plane 1963 M20C (pictures are in my album on here) for anyone that maybe interested. I think it will be a great deal for someone looking to fly on a budget. Here is the basic details of the partnership. Upfront cost $12k for plane, $500 deposit for maintenance and owners account and around $500 for 1/3 of the insurance. Monthly cost $200 to cover hanger exp, next basic annual (due April), and next insurance pmt plus $20 and hour (dry) for any extra items that come up in annual and future upgrades/rebuilds.
  12. First time caller, but I've been lurking for a bit. It looks like I will be entering a partnership on a 1963 M20C. If all goes well on the annual next week, I'm in. Super excited about it and I have learned quite a bit from this forum already. I am a 100 hour pilot with all of my time in Cessnas, primarily the 172. I'm only a few hours from my instrument checkride and I've been flying quite a bit in the last year. The person from whom I'm purchasing the share is a CFI and we are planning extensive transition training for me. I've been reading the recent threads on landings with great interest. What are the watch outs for me and what should we emphasize in the training? Thanks in advance for the thoughts!
  13. So it seems like every time I fly something else breaks. Today it was my panel lighting. The dimmer switch functions as an on/off and dimmer rheostat. They were fine a couple weeks ago but tonight the switch just turns the lights on and off but no dimming. Pretty sure the switch isn't original as the panel was modded years ago with post lights. Any idea of a particular part number, replacement switch or a way to troubleshoot the current rheostat?
  14. Boilermonkey

    Pattern Work at KHFY M20C

    THANK YOU GARMIN. Starting to have some fun with the Virb that I won at AirVenture. The camera's altimeter is at times about 100ft off, but the picture is amazing. Win have to connect audio next! https://youtu.be/m0XoRCJ_XcU
  15. I am based at Hooks in the Houston area and have recently bought a second plane which has a RayJay turbo. I am very pleased with my purchase seems like she is going to be a really good bird. My problem is that the owner cannot locate any info on the turbo. I have never flown a turbo and do not want to "Burn it Up" first time out. The previous owner mostly flew it without turbo and so far that is what I have done as well. Here are the basics 1976 M20F and the RayJay Turbo also installed in 1976. The pilot who flew the plane down from Utah said it worked flawlessly on his flight. Any help and advice would be great. BTW - I currently have a 1/3 interest available in my other plane 1963 M20C (pictures are in my album on here) for anyone that maybe interested. I think it will be a great deal for someone looking to fly on a budget. Here is the basic details of the partnership. Upfront cost $12k for plane, $500 deposit for maintenance and owners account and around $500 for 1/3 of the insurance. Monthly cost $200 to cover hanger exp, next basic annual (due April), and next insurance pmt plus $20 and hour (dry) for any extra items that come up in annual and future upgrades/rebuilds.
  16. Well after 14 years on the ground I'm back in the game with my new to me Ranger. 10 hrs of transition training and five hours of solo under my belt but a lot left to learn. Huge step up from the 152 I did my PP training in. Only problem so far is starting. When the engine is cold it fires right up no problem. However, when it is heat soaked (landing for fuel and taking off shortly after) it does not want to start. Paying more attention to the stages my starter engages when I turn the key to start but the shower of sparks does not start until I push in the key. Is this wired in reverse? Again it works great when cold but the starter stops immediately when I push the key in on a warm engine. If I go from the start position back to both (bypassing the sos) the engine starts fine. My IA returns from vacation next week and I want to order the parts for him. Picture of the plane all tucked in.
  17. I always look over the NTSB databases when I get a new airplane (all three times...) and did so not so long ago. What struck me was for my aircraft (M20c) with but a few exceptions all the accidents in the East were survivable, most without serious injuries. Fatal accidents, nearly all of them, occurred out west or in mountains. Haven't yet checked for any other Mooneys.
  18. I have started to question anything done on my airplane and since I can't get to my mechanic on a day to day basis - I turn to the mooneyspacers for info. Today's questions: 1965 M20C Oil Cooler. The fittings are facing inboard...is this correct or should they be on the outboard side? 2nd question: The aircraft has a fuel flow transducer installed between the fuel pump and the carb. The fuel line has has a 360 degree loop when it looks like the hose could have run directly from the transducer to the carb. Is it more proper to have the big loop or should I have a hose made that runs directly from the FF transducer? Lastly - is that an indication of an exhaust leak at the muffler? - (its a minor leak at the junction of the adjacent fitting) Bottom line - None of the hoses have manufacture dates, test dates or other info on them or any data plates so they are going to be replaced before annual because they could be from 1965...or who knows when.
  19. I am looking at buying a M20D converted to RG and I was wondering what to expect for cruise speed? My first flight was around 135kt indicated, not sure if that is slow or reasonable. I would like to know if I would expect different results from a true M20C. Secondly, Anything I should be aware of in owning a M20D? Thanks much!
  20. I just pruchased an M20D what converted to an M20C. The overhead fresh air vent is not operating properly. After remove the headline it appears the cable has disconnected at the door. The knob side cable is connected and appears to move when the knob is rotated. I'd like to reconnect or replace this cable however there doesn't appear to be a way to remove the water tight aluminum enclosure around the vent to access the cable termination/vent mechanism without removing the rivets that hold this enclosure to the top of the fuselage. Am I missing something? Is there a way to access this cable end without removing rivets? Thanks.
  21. The title may say it all... still educating myself on the breed. I still think I'm looking for an E, but I'd like to learn as much as I can on the unique traits of each model. For example, they built a lot of C's, but ended production of D's after a fairly brief run. I kind of wish Gordon Baxter was still around, I remember he was a real champion of Mooney and he'd probably have a lot to say (still). Thanks.
  22. Hi, I'm looking for some Mooney specific training in the Chicago land area. Does anyone know of any good CFI's that I can get some training from? I have my PPL and need to get my complex endorsement. A CFII would be a plus as I am looking to get my instrument rating as well. Thanks! Paul
  23. I live in Davis, CA and would like to either join or start a partnership with 1 or 2 other pilots. I would be interested in a Mooney M20C/E/F/J. I will plan on flying 60-80 hours. I am VFR rated only but will be getting IFR this year. Message me on here if you would be interested. Thanks!
  24. New member owner of 62 M20C. Power supply to wingtip strobes is dead. Anyone have an extra laying around for sale or any options on a reasonable conversion to LED? Thanks