M20F-1968

I bought a pair of Halos and tried them on a short flight today. ATC kept stating that they could not hear me, and there was static. They were good enough to put up with my calling and getting reports of the transmission quality. Then I put my David Clarks on and they immediately said, "that was the first time we really heard you." The microphone boom on the Halo is too short to get it to touch my lip. Perhaps the microphone does not have the directionality of the Dark Clark dynamic microphone. They seem to be quiet, but I did not have a real chance to test that aspect because the transmission quality was such a problem.. Any Ideas of what could be the problem. Any special guidance in setting them up and using them? I have heard very good things about these headsets. Also, the side tome (if I have that term used correctly - when you hear your own voice when you are transmitting) is echo-like and very different from what I hear with my DC. Any ideas? John Breda

I am upgrading to a GTX-345 and will be removing my GTX-330ES in 2 weeks. If any of you still need ADS-B out and have a WAAS GPS to provide position information, the GTX-330ES is a good option. It is of course ADS-B out only. My unit has 400 hours on it and is pristine. Feel free to make offers. These are on e-bay for prices in the $2500 - $2900 range as Buy It Now Prices. There is only 1 up for auction with several days left. Feel free to PM me, or e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com or call me at (617) 877-0025. Thanks, John Breda

The GTX 330 does not give you ADS-B in and neither does the GTX 330ES (Extended Squitter) which will give you ADS-B Out (but not in) and will make you compliant for the Jan 2020 mandate. I am actually taking out my GTX 330ES (which will give ADS-B out) and replacing it with a GTX 345 (which will give both In and Out). If anyone is looking for a way to be ADB-B compliant by January, my GTX 330ES will be for sale when I take it out in about 2 weeks. If interested please e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com or call me at (617) 877-0025. Thanks, John Breda

Now is the time to clean everything up, take care of any surface corrosion, take out old insulation, get rid of the plaster-like stuff they put on the skins if you can and epoxy paint the interior. I have a 1968 F, pictures are attached of the interior before we started rebuilding. You only get one chance to do this. Then we starting rebuilding it into a new model Mooney. John Breda cabin-3.bmp inside-tail-2.bmp

I made my own and you should do the same. The strap Hector makes is too light. I took a leather belt I bought at a Goodwill type store and had some leather left over from my seats. I wrapped and contact cemented the the belt to the leather which left only one edge. I then bought on E-bay some straight leather punches. They punch holes in the leather and are made in different lengths (3 holes, 5, hols etc in a row). You then use two round (not pointed as you already have holes in the leather) leather needles with some heavy thread, passing the thread through the pre-punched leather part. This will give you a sewn look with straight and evenly spaced stitching. You can hold the leather strap on edge in a clean vise. Drill an appropriate hole on each end. Price = next to nothing, and in the end you have learned how to do some leather work. John Breda

When I was doing my rebuild I used Bill Wheat as my go to person. I asked him what voltage regulator to buy and he gave me one choice, Zeftronics. I have had no problems with it at all. John Breda

A touch of back pressure is a no brainer. I can picture a touch of rudder, if countered by a touch of opposite rudder - because without both you would not be on centerline. I don't really like the idea of being cross controlled near the ground for any unnecessary reason. But it seems what you are doing is adding drag so you can also carry a but more power without floating. Some of my best landing have been done with speed brakes and have been done in windy, gusty, and crosswind conditions because I want and need to carry more power. The wing feels heavier. It seems you are doing the same thing with the controls. John Breda

I have to move the clock back a bit. I learned to fly in 1985 in Portland, OR. I do not think I few any more than a few months without a headset. I know that in the 1985-1988 time frame portable battery powered intercoms were available and were being used. I got my first one in 1989. Still have it. John Breda

Let me add some numbers that are in between these 2 models. My highly modified F (now a turbonormalized F) bridges this gap. 200 hp, altitude to 18,000 ft easily (critical altitude about 20,000 ft I am told, have not been there). Useful load 985 lbs, 90 gallons of fuel. 10,000 ft, 75% power, 100 ROP 160 kts on 10.5 ghp = perhaps just under 7 hrs flying with reserves. full throttle 168 kts 17,000 ft, 75% POWER, 100 ROP, 175-180 Kts 40 LOP, 8.5 gph and about 5 knots less = about 8.5 hrs flying with 1 hour left in each tank. I like the manual gear and flaps of the F. No extra weight for motors, no electrical stuff o fail, no issue with parts availability and lower maintenance. What you feel in your hand is what you have. Fuel management in the Mooney is much easier than the Bonanza. With modern avionics, I think I have found a very capable retirement airplane that is efficient, safe, stable and provides for precise instrument flying. What I am saying is that one can look at all the generalities made as to Mooney v. Bonanza in this thread. In the end, you have to look at the specific airplane that is available to you at a given price and condition, and decide if it is what you want, or decide if it be made into what you want. The F can be landed on grass, but I do not take it there. The Bonanza will do a better job of that. The big generalities are: Mooney = speed and efficiency Bonanza = a little more speed and greater useful load. John Breda

When you loosen the nut on the J-Bar handle, you will need an open end wrench ground down to fit into the hole in the Johnson Bar. You may be able to grind dows the sides of a box wrench as well to make it fit. HOWEVER, remember to put some tape on the underside of the wrench and stick the nut to the tape when installing the nut, or use the tape when taking the nut off. Otherwise, it will fall inside to Johnson Bat never to be seen again. John Breda

I may have some parts depending on what you need. The parts I woud have are from a 1968 F. John Breda

Here are pictures of the Do Not Tow device - John Breda Here are the p John Breda

Locate the holes by using machinist's hole finder pins. They can be purchased or made yourself given that you only need a low level of precision (as opposed to +/- 0.001" that a machinist may require). They are essentially a machine screw (or in this case a sheet metal screw) with the head removed, leaving a threaded shaft, one end of which is ground to a point. Install the threaded shaft into the hole in the aircraft with the pointed end facing toward the plastic to be installed. Screw them into the aircraft so they stick out about the right amount as needed for the finish installation (so everything is where it would normally be when installed) and hit the plastic with a rubber mallet or similar device to mark the backside of the plastic. Then, drill your holes. John Breda

I have a RAT (air driven alternator) that uses such struts to push open a door to get the turbine into the wind (mounter on the avionics bay door). The company makes them in many sizes. I am sure one can be used for this purpose. I'll look for the manufacturer's name. John Breda

Why not use a pneumatic piston. This is more of a hardware part. Does it really have to be factory part or copy of a factory part? John Breda

You will be using insurance dollars to get this work done. The vertical stabilizer (and the Mooney flap) are two of the thinnest control surfaces in General Aviation. Beegles has jigs and the experience working on Mooneys to do the work correctly. I would still suggest them as a first choice. They can also get the work done as quickly any anyone (not sure about their availability to do the work however). You likely will want Mooney Engineering to weigh in on if the plane is able to be ferried. John Breda

You have no idea what the internal structure is like in a used vertical stabilizer from a scrap yard. I would "repair" yours. The shop to go to without question is Beegles Aircraft, Greeley, CO. They have been doing structural repairs for a long time. John Breda

The 3M product I used to help make the velcro stick is 3M "Primer 94". It works well. I was at the hangar yesterday but did not get the part number for the Velcro. I will do that as well if anyone wants it. It was a specific 3M velcro for aviation use (I assume meaning the adhesive was different). John Breda

I put my caret in with Velcro. I used a 3M product that makes the surface (carpet and floor) sticky, and used a 3M Velcro product that has a different adhesive and is designed for aircraft. It has worked great. I can get part numbers if anyone would like them. John Breda

I replaced mine less than a year ago. One problem is that the thread length is not long enough in many of the switches. Also, if you have other stuff, such as an auto-pilot disconnect switch and an electric trim control switch on the same side of the yoke you will need a sub-miniature switch (very small). The part number is: ALCO TPC13CO SPST-N/O Momentary Mini Push Switch Aircraftspruce used to sell them for a little over $20.00. I bought a couple extra and may be willing to sell one for $15.00. My mechanic (very Mooney experienced) correctly stated that you do not want a PPT switch to have a click. Too much throw and work to repeatedly activate. He also told me that he has used these Alco switches for may years without problems. This switch feels great in action. John Breda

I do not want to hijack the thread, but is anyone wants to go the extended squitter route for ADS-B compliance, I will be replacing my GTX 330ES with a GTX345. The GTX 330ES provides ADS-b out and can make you compliant. My cell is (617) 877-0025 and e-mail john.breda@gmail.com John Breda

Without an STC option for a second alternator, you might look at this option. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/turboalt1428.php I have this in my plane as I am turbonormalized and need to keep a scavenger pump on the accessory case. John Breda

XM Weather v. ADS-B Weather? I currently have XM weather, and will be installing a GTX345 which will give me ADS-B weather. As for traffic, I I have an Avidyne TCAD which is active traffic and the GTX345 will give me ADS-B traffic. In the case of traffic information, the GTX345 takes command of the Avidyne TCAD and looks at both traffic sources. If information is duplicative, then it shows one traffic target. if one source augments something that is not coming from the other, it shows that single traffic source which the other did not show. I'm not sure how to whether sources are handled. I suspect one would be able to switch between one source and the other and visually compare them. I also suspect that the XM weather is more reliable than the ADS-B whether. Comments are appreciated. John Breda

To those of you that are looking to be ADS-B Out compliant by the end of the year: I have a GTX330ES I am taking out of my plane as I recently purchased a used GTX345. The GTX330ES is in like new condition and will solve your ADS-B compliance issues for 2010. I am removing it as I am doing some other work behind the panel and found a used GTX345 which will augment my TCAD and XM-weather by giving me ADS-B In and Out. I can be reached at (617) 877-0025 or at john.breda@gmail.com Thanks, John Breda

I do not want the retaining rings that keep these attached as these have to come all the way off to remove the cowl easily. If you use the Skybolt 2000 series, there is a nylon washer that they see that can be put over the back side of the camlock (over the T end) that will allow the camlock to be retracted easily for cowling removal but keep the fastener in their respective holes and stay on the top cowling when it is removed. This is a big help as the length of the camlock used may be different in adjacent holes. You are correct, you do not want the star shaped washer that slides onto the camlock barrel and holds it in one place only. You want the Camlock to move freely in the hole, but not fall out of the hole. John Breda