M20F-1968

SOLD

I have to chime in on this one as I have done just as DBX said. My airplane is a 68 F. It is a forever plane. I started out trying to make it a very nice F, then decided that I liked some of the modifications the factory had done over the years. I found a 1998 Ovation at Dallas Air Salvage with 400 hours total time. I bought many parts from that plane and incorporated them into my project. I hired a DER and changed the structural cage to make it like the new planes so I could install center stack radios and an instrument panel bow, retrofitted the Ovation interior, installed on board oxygen from the Ovation, landing lights in the wings, Ovation wheels, parking brakes, long range tanks, speed brakes, LED lights/strobes, installed a turbonormalizer, J model cowling and windshield, one piece belly, all J speed mods except inner gear doors, made an Ovation/Bravo style panel and used the Ovation glareshield, defroster system, installed new Ovation style door locks. Then chose avionics, G600, GTN-750, GTN-650, GTX-345, S-TEC 60-2 with alt. preselector (1/2 of this system came with the plane), Avidyne TCAD, GDL-69, WX-500, ect (see pics). It has a Jar bar (Last year produced) but importantly, it has a J bar that is different from all the others (only on the 1968) and works much more easily and hydraulic flaps. As a 1968, it has a twisted wing (it really is not that "wierd"). It was an attempt to improve handling in a stall. My goal was to build an excellent IFR plane, that had relatively simple systems that were not maintenance hogs. Given the manual systems, I can always make a push-rod. A gear motor or back-spring not so much. I broke it down to a hull, and started with a clean airframe. (see pics attached). It achieves near 231 speeds on an IO360A1A engine which has historically been one of the most bulletproof GA engines (simplicity is good). It is a 160-185 kt airplane depending upon altitude, runs ROP or LOP, and has an endurance of 7 hours plus reserves 100 ROP. It is a great retirement airplane in that it is not a maintenance hog. This can all be accomplished with a "cheap" airplane, but keep in mind, cheap only lasts until you get fully involved in the rebuild. Then you realize you are building a forever plane and you must fish or cut bait. I decided mid-project to turn this airplane into a very nice Mooney. This lead to several awards, including a Lindy award (best of class) at AirVenture last summer. A project of this type requires persistence and a good supply of AMU's. By the time you are done, you could have bought something else that is very nice. The advantage I have is a plane with all newer equipment, new wiring, new systems and a plane that I know completely. There are no surprises. My engine was rebuilt to new specs in1982 (chrome cylinders) and sat from 1982 until 2003 when I bought the plane. I sent the engine to Penn Yan in 2003 who did an IRAN and replaced anything that they thought needed to be replaced. I gave them carte blanche to do what was right. The engine then sat for almost 6 more years before the plane first flew for the first time in 26 years. The engine has 400 hours on it now since Penn Yan's work. Compressions 80/80 in all cylinders. You can do the same work on the plane you are looking at, BUT, you must be doing it with an eye to make it one of the most unique Mooneys out there and turn it into something that can not be bought. That is really the reason to take on a project airplane. In the end, I made a model Mooney that didn't quite exist. cabin.bmp inside-tailcone.bmp instrument-bay-2.bmp Lindy 2019.html

It really was a no brainer. It cost the same to ship two used cylinders from OH to MA as it did 4 cylinders. Shipping was close to $200, the cylinders were $100 each. 300 cubic foot cylinders, $20 each to fill. Bought the gauges, hoses, etc. on line at a welder's supply outlet. No rental. No brainer. I have only needed to use one cylinder so far. Onboard tank is 50 cubic feet. John

These can be easily rebuilt. Contact Air Parts of Lockhaven. Keep a back-up set so when one needs replacing, you can immediately replace it and send the removed one for overhaul. John Breda

I have a 4 tank cascade, 300 c foot bottles. Could someone describe an ideal management technique for filling? I'll post a picture when I can. John Breda

If you are using the 115 cubic foot O2 bottle from the Ovation as a basis for an inboard system, I have a pair of the Scott factory brackets that I am not using. (I downgraded to a 50 cubic foot bottle to save weight). Let me know if you need them. John Breda

Reportedly the Mooney Miser used to hold a cover over his fuel tanks by using this Dual Lock product (like velcro only stronger): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVSMQKA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 John Breda

Mike: Great idea. I have it on my calendar and will be there. I may be able to get enough time off to fly the Mooney down this time. But, for those flying commercially, the Tampa area is much more accessible. The Tampa area is great, wonderful airport and the area offers more supports for the Summit meeting. Great problem solving! John Breda

Just saw this post on another web site: Love my Halo's. Just bought one for Teresa, my wife.IRT the OP concerns:- be aware that the proper mic orientation is to have the LARGE single hole towards your mouth, and- urge caution with trimming the tubes, the length is tuned to best transmission to the speakers and contains a transducer of some description (easily seen in the tubes) I tried them with the side that has several smaller holes directed towards the lips. What is correct? john Breda

Ok, still having issues with the Halos. Took the plane out today and made sure the microphone was facing in the correct direction (although even when it is positioned, it still wants to rotate downward toward the floor). It does seem quieter thn my David Clarks, but ATC is still stating that my transmissions to them (with the Halos) is scratchy, unclear and difficult to understand. I purchased two, one is slightly better than the other, but still with issues. After 40 minutes or so I took them off, plugged in my DC ENR, and was told "read you loud and clear." Pros: They are light Hearing yourself when transmitting is different, more like you are listening in a reverberant room, but I can get used to that They seem to be quieter Receiving ATC transmissions seems to be OK Cons: ATC tells me transmissions are just not as good as with the DC. I question what they will do in severe turbulence in terms of stability on your head How what? Has anyone actually check with ATC or another plane to see how the transmission is compared to their conventional headset? John Breda

I bought a pair of Halos and tried them on a short flight today. ATC kept stating that they could not hear me, and there was static. They were good enough to put up with my calling and getting reports of the transmission quality. Then I put my David Clarks on and they immediately said, "that was the first time we really heard you." The microphone boom on the Halo is too short to get it to touch my lip. Perhaps the microphone does not have the directionality of the Dark Clark dynamic microphone. They seem to be quiet, but I did not have a real chance to test that aspect because the transmission quality was such a problem.. Any Ideas of what could be the problem. Any special guidance in setting them up and using them? I have heard very good things about these headsets. Also, the side tome (if I have that term used correctly - when you hear your own voice when you are transmitting) is echo-like and very different from what I hear with my DC. Any ideas? John Breda

I am upgrading to a GTX-345 and will be removing my GTX-330ES in 2 weeks. If any of you still need ADS-B out and have a WAAS GPS to provide position information, the GTX-330ES is a good option. It is of course ADS-B out only. My unit has 400 hours on it and is pristine. Feel free to make offers. These are on e-bay for prices in the $2500 - $2900 range as Buy It Now Prices. There is only 1 up for auction with several days left. Feel free to PM me, or e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com or call me at (617) 877-0025. Thanks, John Breda

The GTX 330 does not give you ADS-B in and neither does the GTX 330ES (Extended Squitter) which will give you ADS-B Out (but not in) and will make you compliant for the Jan 2020 mandate. I am actually taking out my GTX 330ES (which will give ADS-B out) and replacing it with a GTX 345 (which will give both In and Out). If anyone is looking for a way to be ADB-B compliant by January, my GTX 330ES will be for sale when I take it out in about 2 weeks. If interested please e-mail me at john.breda@gmail.com or call me at (617) 877-0025. Thanks, John Breda

Now is the time to clean everything up, take care of any surface corrosion, take out old insulation, get rid of the plaster-like stuff they put on the skins if you can and epoxy paint the interior. I have a 1968 F, pictures are attached of the interior before we started rebuilding. You only get one chance to do this. Then we starting rebuilding it into a new model Mooney. John Breda cabin-3.bmp inside-tail-2.bmp

I made my own and you should do the same. The strap Hector makes is too light. I took a leather belt I bought at a Goodwill type store and had some leather left over from my seats. I wrapped and contact cemented the the belt to the leather which left only one edge. I then bought on E-bay some straight leather punches. They punch holes in the leather and are made in different lengths (3 holes, 5, hols etc in a row). You then use two round (not pointed as you already have holes in the leather) leather needles with some heavy thread, passing the thread through the pre-punched leather part. This will give you a sewn look with straight and evenly spaced stitching. You can hold the leather strap on edge in a clean vise. Drill an appropriate hole on each end. Price = next to nothing, and in the end you have learned how to do some leather work. John Breda

When I was doing my rebuild I used Bill Wheat as my go to person. I asked him what voltage regulator to buy and he gave me one choice, Zeftronics. I have had no problems with it at all. John Breda

A touch of back pressure is a no brainer. I can picture a touch of rudder, if countered by a touch of opposite rudder - because without both you would not be on centerline. I don't really like the idea of being cross controlled near the ground for any unnecessary reason. But it seems what you are doing is adding drag so you can also carry a but more power without floating. Some of my best landing have been done with speed brakes and have been done in windy, gusty, and crosswind conditions because I want and need to carry more power. The wing feels heavier. It seems you are doing the same thing with the controls. John Breda

I have to move the clock back a bit. I learned to fly in 1985 in Portland, OR. I do not think I few any more than a few months without a headset. I know that in the 1985-1988 time frame portable battery powered intercoms were available and were being used. I got my first one in 1989. Still have it. John Breda

Let me add some numbers that are in between these 2 models. My highly modified F (now a turbonormalized F) bridges this gap. 200 hp, altitude to 18,000 ft easily (critical altitude about 20,000 ft I am told, have not been there). Useful load 985 lbs, 90 gallons of fuel. 10,000 ft, 75% power, 100 ROP 160 kts on 10.5 ghp = perhaps just under 7 hrs flying with reserves. full throttle 168 kts 17,000 ft, 75% POWER, 100 ROP, 175-180 Kts 40 LOP, 8.5 gph and about 5 knots less = about 8.5 hrs flying with 1 hour left in each tank. I like the manual gear and flaps of the F. No extra weight for motors, no electrical stuff o fail, no issue with parts availability and lower maintenance. What you feel in your hand is what you have. Fuel management in the Mooney is much easier than the Bonanza. With modern avionics, I think I have found a very capable retirement airplane that is efficient, safe, stable and provides for precise instrument flying. What I am saying is that one can look at all the generalities made as to Mooney v. Bonanza in this thread. In the end, you have to look at the specific airplane that is available to you at a given price and condition, and decide if it is what you want, or decide if it be made into what you want. The F can be landed on grass, but I do not take it there. The Bonanza will do a better job of that. The big generalities are: Mooney = speed and efficiency Bonanza = a little more speed and greater useful load. John Breda

When you loosen the nut on the J-Bar handle, you will need an open end wrench ground down to fit into the hole in the Johnson Bar. You may be able to grind dows the sides of a box wrench as well to make it fit. HOWEVER, remember to put some tape on the underside of the wrench and stick the nut to the tape when installing the nut, or use the tape when taking the nut off. Otherwise, it will fall inside to Johnson Bat never to be seen again. John Breda

I may have some parts depending on what you need. The parts I woud have are from a 1968 F. John Breda

Here are pictures of the Do Not Tow device - John Breda Here are the p John Breda

Locate the holes by using machinist's hole finder pins. They can be purchased or made yourself given that you only need a low level of precision (as opposed to +/- 0.001" that a machinist may require). They are essentially a machine screw (or in this case a sheet metal screw) with the head removed, leaving a threaded shaft, one end of which is ground to a point. Install the threaded shaft into the hole in the aircraft with the pointed end facing toward the plastic to be installed. Screw them into the aircraft so they stick out about the right amount as needed for the finish installation (so everything is where it would normally be when installed) and hit the plastic with a rubber mallet or similar device to mark the backside of the plastic. Then, drill your holes. John Breda

I have a RAT (air driven alternator) that uses such struts to push open a door to get the turbine into the wind (mounter on the avionics bay door). The company makes them in many sizes. I am sure one can be used for this purpose. I'll look for the manufacturer's name. John Breda

Why not use a pneumatic piston. This is more of a hardware part. Does it really have to be factory part or copy of a factory part? John Breda