N601RX

Slick produced a service manual that shows all the combination of parts needed to repair both their 5/8 and 3/4 leads for both slick and bendix as well as how to replace the ends. I remember having a very difficult time finding a download of it online but finally located it. I have a copy at work I can email you if you need it. I found the toolkit for installing the ends on eBay, luckily no one else bid on it. Otherwise it's the most expensive pair of vise grips you will ever buy. the spring screws off the pin, the pin that sticks up inside the center conductor may come out with it if not careful. There is usually NOS of these on eBay.

I think you can find them in both rubber and cork. O&N sells cork ones for their bladders that have a hole pattern the same as the factory sender. Also pay close attention when installing them, they have a 5 bolt pattern, but 2 of the bolts are closer together than the others. Make sure all the holes line up.

I can't leave any portable battery equipment in my plane during the summer. The hanger gets so hot it will make the batteries start leaking in a short period of time. I learned that lesson the hard way.

Make 3 D model, print 3D model, test fit, alter model and reprint until happy then machine from aluminum. Heck, printed part is plenty strong to use.

If there are 1000 of these in service a few will eventually break. If all 1000 are replaced a few will be replaced incorrectly or have a manufacturing defect.

The master and starter relay are about the same price from Skytec. Until recently they were not an option. If its the master you will see it show up on your volt meter in the panel during starting. Another thing I've noticed is that some of the large gauge wire on my plane looked fine on the outside, but if the insulation was peeled back there was a lot of white powder inside. I've replaced most of it, but its very unlikely the wire would cause an intermittent issue. The connection between the wire and compression lugs on the ends are a possibility.

I'm working on a clamp on side bracket similar to the welded tab for the pre 68' models that didn't have the factory welded tab. It's going to take a few trips back and forth to the plane to get the curvature of the hole through the center of the model correct. I have the 1/4 front window and there isn't much room between the window and bar.

I made 2 rules for myself several years ago. The towbar is never left hanging on the front wheel for any reason, its either in my hand being used or its put away and the baggage door is either fully open or shut and locked.

I would hope they are both firing the #1 at the same time. The difference is likely due to to if the length of wire depending if it goes to the top or bottom plug. I think the lycoming parts manual show an alternative wire routing for most engines.

When I 1st started flying my wife told me it would be a cold day in hell before she went. After I got my license I started going flying by myself one or two afternoons a week. Apparently things got a little frosty down there, because after about 3 months one day she ask if she could go also. Another guy at our airport had a wife who would not go so he started inviting her better looking friends. It wasn't long before the wife decided she would go also. This also comes to mind. http://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0LEVyv0aOtWxGgAWwrBGOd_;_ylu=X3oDMTEya2E1YmQwBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDQjEzNzRfMQRzZWMDc3I-/RV=2/RE=1458297204/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fwww.youtube.com%2fwatch%3fv%3dNgFhJN4H0T0/RK=0/RS=oAxOpUI8AqHjQk7zjQ_1T7OF04o-

Jpi uses a K type thermal couple. If Mooney used a K type they should read very similar. If it is a J type or resistive them it will not work. You can adjust the jpi value upon or down a few deg in their software.

The outer coating on the outside of the copper braid just protects it. The elecitrical insulation is between the center conductor and outer braided shield. If a wire is damaged close enough to either end it can be cut off and the end reattached if you mechanic has the tool kit to do it.

The 90 deg elbows are nice and help with routing stress as the wire can exit in the direction you want it to go. The cost difference was minimal a few years ago when skytronics manufactured them, but they were purchased by Kelly a few years ago who added $100 to the price of everything in their product line. I think the only choice now is Kelly and Champion. You might be just as well off with your old wires.

Do you have these doubler plates installed? http://www.mooney.com/en/sb/M20-99.pdf here is another cause of cracking. Does your oil cooler lines go up through the engine baffling, or down under the exhaust? http://www.mooney.com/en/sb/M20-110.pdf

I have gathered up most all the parts to do this but have not started it. It involves swapping the cowl, spinner, baffling, and air induction. You will also have to swap the engine mount or have the cowl flap mount hing mechanism welded to yours. Then the cowl flanges and side skins will have to be un-riveted and trimmed back. Once this is done strips of aluminum are slid between the side skin and firewall and rivited back together. The cowl then mounts to these strips of aluminum.

I noticed this a few years ago also. When my 67F still had the oil cooler in the original location it had long bolts and spacers, but the parts manual only showed An3-4A bolts and washers which are only long enough to mount to one side. When I ordered the LASAR relocation kit it came with long bolts and spacers.

A copy of a carefully measured and copied original is fine, but when you get a copy of a copy of a copy things start to get iffy!

Make sure the ground wire to the unit is connected directly to the engine and not the airframe. The slick mags have 2 holes that the rpm sensor can be screwed into. It will only read correctly in one of them. Can you post a picture of the fuel flow transducer mounting?

I like USAirnet, it goes out 3 days and all the parameters are graphical so it only takes a quick look. Also the new MOS reports Foreflight added to the weather tab goes out 48 hrs. http://www.usairnet.com/cgi-bin/launch/code.cgi?state=AL&sta=KTOI

Does the Lycoming parts manual show the bushing or give a Lycoming part number? If it does then it should by available from aircraft specialties. If Hartzell is the only source then you might find one on eBay.

I have a spinner backplate that was drilled at some point before I got it. I think it was a bad idea, but was also concerned about the legality of it. After much looking I found some FAA guidance which said balancing was a minor change and was a logbook entry. I believe it was the form of an AC which mostly said follow the directions provided by the balance manufacturer company. After looking at a couple of balance manuals I found one that said to drill and countersink screws into the spinner backplate. I believe it was a Chadwick manual that said this. The other manuals said use extra washers which seems like a much better option. AC 20-37E

Unless it has changed in the last few years Alabama exempts the sale of an aircraft from sales tax if the sale occurred between 2 private individuals as a casual sale. With both the planes I purchased the revenue dept sent me some forms inquiring about the conditions of the sale. After determining the sale was between 2 private individuals and not an aircraft sales broker or aircraft dealer they said no taxes were due. In the last year or two most of the counties have began to collect yearly property tax on aircraft which is a few hundred a year. I know of a few planes that have been based at airports along the line for the 1st 6 months to avoid this. There are a few tax professions based in Florida who specialize in aviation matters, you might want to talk to one of them to make sure everything is covered. (2) Purchases Outside Florida. (a) There shall be a presumption that any aircraft, boat, mobile home, motor vehicle, or other vehicle purchased in another state, territory of the United States, or the District of Columbia but titled, registered, or licensed in this state is taxable except as otherwise provided in subsection (26) of this rule. This presumption may be rebutted only by documentary evidence that the person owning the aircraft, boat, mobile home, or motor vehicle purchased the aircraft, boat, mobile home, or motor vehicle in another state, territory of the United States, or the District of Columbia six (6) months or more prior to the time it is brought into this state. In order for such property to be presumed exempt as purchased for use outside Florida, the person owning the aircraft, boat, mobile home, motor vehicle, or other vehicle must provide documentary proof that such property was used in other states, territories of the United States, or the District of Columbia for six months or longer under conditions which would lawfully give rise to the taxing jurisdiction of another state, territory, or District of Columbia and any lawfully imposed tax was paid to such state, territory, or District of Columbia before being imported into this state. However, the rental or lease of any aircraft, boat, mobile home, or motor vehicle which is used or stored in this state is taxable without regard to its prior use or tax paid on the purchase outside this state.

You may also want to look at basing it just over the Alabama line and not taking it into Fl for the 1st 6 months. Depending on the purchase price it may save you quite a bit. Alabama has no sales or use tax on private airplane transactions.

Its likely the master relay. You can measure the voltage on the out side of it to confirm.

Can I walk over and get a copy?