bradp

I can recall when the CT turnpike was a toll road. It converted to free circa 1985. In 1983 a section of a bridge in SW CT literally fell out and a few vehicles plunged into the river below.

I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks in advance to PTK for some tips. Almost forgot the most important part ...

Mine are installed in the front just like kevinw's, flush to the sidewall on each side. Each is just a little fwd of the lowermost edge of the panel, so unfamiliar pax sitting in the copilot's seat often can't find the thing. The rear pax have flush against the spar (just below the seat). Minus is that the ports open up, so dust dirt etc falls into them. If I had to do it again I'd put the copilots' flush against the center pedestal (copilot needs to be unplugged or put on dash to avoid getting tangled in the headset on the way out) and make sure that the rear ones are turned with the plugs horizontal instead of vertical. Hope this helps and welcome to the space. -Brad

Oil, extra light bulbs, leather man tool, cheapo 3/8 socket set, cheapo torque wrench, duct tape, two spark plugs, spark plug washers, wire, cable ties.

Bob did you end up going with the .250 or the thinner .220 windshield? Smoke Grey with the UV coat or with the tint alone? Not to thread hijack too much but relevant to what the OP had asked ... I've convinced myself to replace the windshield before the plane goes in for paint in April. I live about 25 min from LP aero's location, so if I do this in my hangar with the AP, I can run the old windshield down to them and they will trim the new one exactly. Also, someone had mentioned using Chief for LP products. I got a quote from them yesterday that beats the socks off of GLAPs published unless there are deals to be had (SnF?). Given I have a more ambitious interior project planned, and that the J models don't require the use of screws through the windows or the fuselage exterior, I only have to worry about the presence of new paint and it getting messed up with the windshield replacement (please correct me if I'm wrong). I will likely do the interior when it's warmer and after paint and don't expect to have any real chance of ruining new paint. So, I'll have a grey windshield and green tint side windows for a while. Eventually I think I'll do the pilot and co pilot window in grey and the rear pax windows in the much darker grey tint available from GLAP. Anyone have recommendations for thickness for windshield and side windows on a J? I'm not sure I want to add more weight for little benefit. Looks like capthaak also has a 201. I spoke with Henry Weber folks and they indicated the .250 is not a big deal on an M20J but can be a real pain on short bodies with the replacement windshield. That sound about right? Thanks Brad

Tap the brakes immediately after you lift off. If it stops the vibration suggests that one or the other wheels is out of balance. Then you can tap one and then the other to see if you can localize it to a specific side. Ill go with the Anthony disclaimer. Just a PPL. Brad

Wish I wasn't working tomorrow. Have fun!

I was just tying to be cheeky with that comment, thus the ;-)

Also be sure to review your insurance policy exclusions. Mine excludes unpaved or unimproved (language along that line, approximately, the key being the use of "or" instead of "and"). I don't mind right now, but this would be something that would need to be addressed if my flying habits change.

So what Dave is saying is that if you slip up on your crosswind landing you should be ready to crab into the wind during your go around. Clear as mud, see ;-)

The $600 surcharge is for a swear jar. The tech swears and you pay. There has to be some disincentive for the avionics shops to recommend an Avidyne slide in unit that takes ~1hr total to install, much of which is configuration and paperwork, than the several hours of shop time that are part and parcel of the installation of a 650/750 installation for re-wiring the same I/Os to a different dsub pin configuration. Same me thing goes for the new 335/345 transponders. Why create a form factor that is not a direct slide in replacement for your previous model? Just wondering...

Anthony after I was used to your bullet point writing, the new writing style I'm not used to again :). The only appreciable difference I can tell between the control inputs of a fwd slip and a side slip is in the former you drop the nose and use full rudder input to lose altitude or airspeed. For those of us without air brakes, this, gear and flaps are our air brakes. The slip to land is done using primarily aileron, just enough rudder to correct and a flared angle of attack. Gentle like.

Also one for Chris. I couldn't find a C-5 for rent, only a C-17. And it's not in NJ.

So just like a Mooney, then :-) To provide a not so successful simulator counter example, my cousin, who flew CH-53Es, put me in their simulator last spring. I could take off, move around, and hover okay but transitioning to hover to land was entirely different. Couldn't get used to the sight picture at all, struck the tail rotor, etc. Not pretty.

I didn't like paying for it ether and then I switched to the $9/month "yacht plan" and don't mind so much. So aye aye captain. Arrrg. I have both ADS-B on the stratus and the GDL-69 for XM because I get no cell reception in my hangar. I don't have a stormscope. Only use the radar for strategic avoidance (I set a 40nm wide corridor limit, no line penetration ever even with a gap, must be VMC i.e. avoid embedded risk). Accidentally once penetrated a small isolated cell for about 30 seconds when IMC (SCT CB and some layered stuff obscuring visual on the tops) and nothing was showing up on the radar at all... Showed up on XM about 5 min later behind me as a blotch of "red". I remember on a trip from Boston to Pittsburgh flying into Vermont to go around a line and controllers wondering WTF I was doing not asking for a vector through . I'm more conservative now.

Plus one for SSI. It's great. There's a barbecue joint right on the end of the runway that has real good stuff. I don't think I'd be too interested in the arrival slug during the event unless the field was IMC. Seems like a Vatsim fly in. I'd also consider the availability of solid tie downs that you'd be more likely to find at places other than LAL. Not just for you but for everyone around you. Remembering this... Take care and have fun no matter which way brad.

Chris your video is like the Blair Witch Project of cockpit videos :-). However your procedure turn is like calligraphy and mine are like my toddler took pen to paper. Aspen is nice and smooth. -Brad

Hi all, As soon as it warms up enough to be reasonably warm and/or I am willing to inhale propane fumes for a prolonged time, I'm going to pull the interior and do a few projects including: 1 - repair and repaint old interior Royalite, replace carpet and re-do arm rests and side leather. 2 - 2 runs of RG 400 in anticipation of ADS-B upgrades 3- pull old / unused wiring 4- pull old fiberglass - there is still some lurking and inspect tubular frame 5- if its as painful as I think it will be to pull the interior, I may replace the side windows then vs coming back later In terms of replacement foam, there's a number of kits available from spruce, etc. The cheap bastard in me says why on earth would I pay ~ 0.9 AMU for some pre cut foam. Spruce also have polyvinyl nitrile rubber foam as another alternative but this lacks the aluminized mylar backing that I would want to create a vapor barrier. My question to the group is 1) has anyone used actual acoustic dampening foam in an install? If so, what shape is best for the type of noise spectrum that our planes produce. I liked the idea of trying to deaden as much sound as possible as I value my toddler's future hearing and can't get her to keep the headphones in or earplugs on for more than 5 minutes a go. They go back in, but it's a struggle. I found a source here: http://www.usafoam.com/acousticfoam/acousticfoam.html The advantage seems to be that it has a fire resistance classification and has been burn tested (typically used in small enclosed spaces in California studios I suppose - so lots of regulation there). Also available in both rolls and 1-foot squares. Also unexpectedly cheap. The unknown is whether this type of has any propensity to retain water vapor. It's gotta be better than that pink $hit that's still lurking in there. Any opinions from the group? The same source also has what they call "gym foam" which is the same stuff that spruce sells minus the mylar wrapping. Figure that may be an easy addition with contact spray and aluminum tape. Plenty of instructables for aluminized mylar uses from the good folks of the "hydroponic" community. If I end up going this route, I'll post some details / pictures for the ultimate CB redo foam installation. Thanks and take care, Brad

High speed taxi to blow off the snow? Reminds me of parking the plane in Boston winters. Good job SP.

Deleted. Wrong topic iPhone misclick.

If you're set on it, start looking for a Brand M. Long bodies require slightly different landing technique. I'd recommend doing primary training in an Arrow while you look for a Mooney. It will ease the transition significantly, you'll have high performance and retract time, and you can beat up someone else's landing gear while you learn how to land. You need to have well above average landing technique for your average student pilot to land a Mooney acceptably ... on average. This is important because off speed and forcing the plane on the ground can / will result in a prop strike. Brad

If thinking Baron go twin Mooney ... Aerostar. You actually get 45 more KTAS for that extra burner. And it will fly one one engine for real. And it lacks wing spar ADs. And there is no airframe hour limit.

Yes I recall a light comes on when you push the button. Tested it during swing at owner assist annual a couple of years ago.

Don't forget about the hangar elves. They don't like to be left out.

Any landing you can walk away from and not fill out forms about ...