Hank

Ah, the belt and suspenders approach to keeping your livestock from wandering away . . .

Well, sorry to hear you're doing so poorly lately. And here I thought you were young . . . I do know some "older" pilots who still fly their Vintage Mooneys. Maybe a good workout program will get you in shape?

You can get inside a tractor?? Wow . . .

But cattle guards are expensive! A gate only requires one extra fence post, cut off at ground level, to attach the barbed wire to, and two loops of wire around the far fence post. Fancy gates are metal,mouth hinges, latches, etc. really fancy pastures have cattle guards.

Sorry, I've been tied up with major home projects and visiting parents. To top it off, the new computer at work won't run our old AutoCAD, and I've been losing the fight with ProE. But that class is next week, so it will get better. Here is a quick hand sketch of a center-mounted visor with additional flexibility beyond that offered by my often-inadequate [but heavily crazed!] factory visors. Being a quick sketch, details of the hinges and attachment are not shown, but rotation at both ends of the rods are required. Mounting the visor to the arm is also not shown, simple Adel clamps as discussed above should work fine. In the excitement of the initial idea, I thought it would be possible to combine both shades along the side of the cockpit, but alas, that is not to be. They can be combined across the front corner, though, as shown at the bottom of the page. The curve at the top eliminates on of my pet peeves about sunvisors in the plane. The ones in the car, even in my old truck, seal pretty well against the ceiling and block sun above the visors. The ones in our planes don't do this . . . Experiment with cardboard and wire to get the curves right, to fit your windshield when mounted wherever on your center post your block can go. Oh, that's right, I didn't show any details for this piece, either, as several are discussed above. The joys of wiring in a workshop in the basement while ripping out part of the finished basement ceiling for access to the plumbing. All of my copper piping is pitted and leaking, and about to be replaced. Without these two concurrent projects occupying my time, along with the CAD issues at work, I may have produced a decent drawing. But this is enough to get you started if you think it's worthwhile. Hmmm, picture won't upload. "There was a problem processing the uploaded file -200" Drag and drop wont work either. Resized it really small, maybe it will take now. 428 kb

I don't "pull back on the stick" in the pattern, but I also don't freely let the nose fall while banking steeply, either. I like a steady, continuous descent, controlled hands-off with trim. So my stall speed in turns will be higher than Vs by some amount, but probably lower than shown in the Stall vs. Bank Angle table. But with no AoA or G meter, I treat it like it's still Vs and hold 90 mph with less than 30° bank.o Sorry, F, you'll not find much support for your "bank as hard as you want in the pattern, just don't pull back in the yoke" approach here. You also won't find it in PHAK, either, nor from any CFI/CFII that I've ever flown with. And no, I don't want to ride along with you while you demonstrate. It's the very antithesis of a stable approach, which is what we should all have from TPA to touchdown, a whole 1000' of steady descent. Flying a level pattern with steep banks and descents in the turns, then trying to figure out how much descent is actually required on final doesn't sound good to me. I much prefer to roll wings level on final, a half mile or so from the threshold, and see the PAPI lights half red & half white. Your Mileage DOES Vary on this one. Please fly safely.

Yeah, me too, but intermittent and decreasing frequency. It's irritating having to delete a previous post so that I can enter a new one. So irritating that I'm hardly posting since the update.

The wonderful orange display on my KT97 is going out, looks like the plastic is breaking down. It's readable at night, though, just not in daylight without shading it with my hand. I need to make sure that they are interchangeable without new trays, rewiring, etc. If so, color me interested.

Oscar, mine is 700075. I'd email the Maint Manual, but it's too big. Has anyone checked the Download section here?

Try it and see. Some noise will leak in, but the gel seal will accommodate a thin phone pretty well. This c ability is the only thing I miss since changing to Halo headsets.

I've taxied by flashlight before. It's hard to illuminate things beyond the prop arc even with your arm out the storm window. With deent ground lights, it's better to taxi without the flashlight, your dark-adapted eyes can see pretty well. BTDT, both of 'em.

My guide shows "Always in my Heart" with Walter Hudson and Kay Francis. Doesn't sound like a flying movie . . . oh, checked your time zone (MST). At 0800 CST / 0900 EST IS "Captain if the Clouds." DVD set! Thanks for the heads up.

LASAR sells lots of parts, and ships them everywhere. I can't imagine they wouldn't sell you the STX and the kit, for your A&P to install . . .

Requirements for the safety pilot above is PP-ASEL with valid medical, any class. Same category (airplane) and class (single engine) are required. Same as the requirement to be safety pilot in my Mooney. It's interesting to fly with other pilots, to see how they do things compared to how I do them. Getting an instrument student to fly as my safety pilot can give them insight into how things are supposed to work, as well as comfort that they don't have to be perfect.

Theynjustmbrought it back from MS 1.0 I guess. I use my phone and iPad enough that I've not seen it in a long while, until this software redo. It was always there on my PC; now it's on both.

Based on my experience, I'd asked for IFR departure from East Bum F*** (KBFE) to the Nowhere VOR (NWH) then on to somewhere I could land (now that's KBFE, a great luxury). I'm getting spoiled now at an airport with several approaches and a nearby VOR that's on the list to go away at some point; before, I needed to shoot an approach into the neighboring Class D and come back Special VFR, conditions permitting. Then I moved to where I am now. I've not made a departure in IMC down here yet, but I have come home and broken out on approach. I have taken off on IFR flight plans, but with high enough ceilings I could climb and contact ATL Approach to open my flight plan. In your scenario, you'll need a Departure Clearance with a void time, and they'll give you initial course and a frequency to check in with.

Why shut down? Grab the cell, shove it under your headset and call the national Clearance Delivery number. Taxi out and runup while you wait. Go when they say you can.

OMG! A $3.00 aircraft part! This looks like one of the two springs that keep the lid to the center console of my car open. Why isn't the aircraft part priced more like $103?

I used live in the pointy part of Ohio, 45 Mooney minutes south of TZR. Winter starts were difficult to do unless I plugged in the engine heat for about an hour, or parked in a warm hangar. Had nothing to do with the battery and everything to do with firing. That was before I OHed the carb and the SoS. The colder the weather the more I had to pump the throttle, too. Be sure to give the cold fuel time to vaporize: pump throttle vigorously at least 5 times, then put on and adjust headset, wind and set the clock and the red hands, then crank. The Concord AGX with extra cranking amps really helps. When I put it in, I could've sworn it spun the prop fast enough to taxi. Just be sitting down when you check the price . . . If it helps, I put it back in Dec 2010, and still going strong at annual last month. P.S.--I never used a battery tender of any sort. But I did buy a cell switch, eliminated those snowy drives to the airport to unplug the engine heat when I couldn't fly. Overnight is wonderful, but realistically, for a breakfast run I'd call the switch when I got out of bed and always cranked immediately.

Ever seen or heard of a bureaucracy that ever shrank, much less went away? They exist only to grow and multiply, so that the ones in charge can build their kingdoms and wield more power.

I've done my share, but never in Tejas . . .

Dang, nothing like a quick response! But what were you two doing up in the middle of the night? Craig gets a break, he's on Mountain time.

Be sure to find out what is included. This can account for much variation in price. How does your engine get to the shop? what parts are replaced? which replacement parts are included? do they do anything to the accessories? If so, which ones? how is the engine test run before returning it to you? is return shipping included? how long are they quoting? (It will be longer) what warranty is offered? Labor only, parts too, must return there for work, fix anywhere, etc. check both calendar time and hours, it can make a difference. Just my musings from what I've heard and read. Hope it's a long while before I have personal experience. Good luck with yours,mans be sure to follow the breakin procedure they give you.

My towbar lives on the baggage floor, or wedged between the baggage and the back seat. That way I can get it out easily after I land. The cover in its bag lives on a shelf in the hangar; when I need it, the bag goes on top of everything else in the baggage area, helping to hold it all in place. The hat rack is where my aluminum travel chocks live, along with fuel cup, dip stick, first aid kit, tie downs and ropes live, along with a fold up umbrella, extra hats, windshield rags, spare headsets, etc. I do try to hold down on clutter and reproduction on the shelf, though. Every now and then it gets a good cleaning out, and not everything goes back in. All in all, it's a handy spot! Now that I use Halos instead of headclamps, though, I find I have plenty of room to wear most any hat I want, short of Hoss's 10-gallon hat. Passengers complain when I wear a sombrero, though.

I think the wing is the same for all models, M20 - M20V.