Hank

This is how mine was done, by one previous owner or another. Easy to reach with my left thumb while holding the yoke. Front and back photos for reference.

I have a trip this weekend, AL-NC-AL, I'll grab some pictures in climb and cruise. It's higher in climb, of course, and warm weather seems to be back again, but Pil Temp usually has a good margin below the top of the green line. My baffling was freshened a couple of years ago, and seals off pretty well now, which has to help.

But albatross soar. This little guy was 4 months old, and flapped his wings for 11 days without pause! Absolutely amazing! Plus he found New Zealand.

"Never underestimate the power of human stupidity." "Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool." Not my original thoughts, but I heartily agree with both of these, and their underlying sentiments.

Just be sure to use blue Loctite and not red!

I had my towbar powder coated, it still went into the gear leg easily.

I thought he wanted the panel itself, not the instruments to mount in it. The last time I was at the avionics shop, they had a whole pole of used panels that they had replaced. Check around with some, see what they have.

What part of this made you think it's OFF??? Or is there a benefit to having the landing light on during annual, or for the entire pitot static test instead of turning it off halfway through?

I know Whelen makes one to replace the large PAR46 bulb in the cowling, because I bought one in 2014. So far, I'm only aware of it being turned off twice since then, once during annual and the other time halfway through the IFR instrument tests. There are several good options. Mine is a Whelen Parmetheus, but now there are two additional Parmetheus versions out and I don't know the difference between them. I've heard of people buying generic PAR46-sized LED tractor lights and using them [what about radio interference?] but can't recommend that option, even at 10% the price of Whelen. There are other vendors, too, with good LED bulbs, just make sure you get a Landing Light and not a Taxi light! Oh, wait--"Whelen" has now become "WAT". Seems there is someone here who is a Whelen distributor . . . . If I remember, I'll add his username. Gallagher rings a bell, but isn't listed.

@mooniac58, seems to be a problem with Donations

I bought my C five weeks after my PPL checkride, and had 62 hours in my logbook [all in C-172s]. Insurance required 15 hours dual, including 5 hours real / simulated IMC with an instructor that they approved. The next day, I took my wife 140 nm across WV for lunch and back, and later in the week we went to see her parents in NC [270 nm away, after work]. The important things are to stay in student pilot mode and learn the airplane; have a good instructor who knows Mooney airplanes; get the procedures down pat; and fly by the correct numbers [which your Mooney CFI will teach you]. Most new Mooney pilots have trouble slowing down to pattern speed, so plan to be at pattern speed 3-5 nm from the field and use that distance to slow down. Good luck in your search, and fly safe!

Check with @Parker_Woodruff for your insurance questions, he's our guru for that. I went out with a CFI last fall while my plane was down, in an Arrow. You'll llike the Mooney, the sight picture is similar but a little different. Do watch your speeds, especially in descent. I frequently pull my power to idle on final approach ~1/4 mile from the threshold, with no change in glide path, so you do have a few things to look forward to!

On the Home page here, click the black "Browse" button, then Downloads. There's a whole section for POHs, on Page 3, I found this for you: Happy reading, hope it all works out well for you!

Maybe he will auction one at the Mooney Summit? @carusoam?

Just scroll down on the home page, there are four (4) sections to the Trading Post. Now that you're a supporter, there should be a big button on all of them. I've helpfully circled it in red in this screenshot: Good luck with whatever you're selling!

Measure the width of the old one in front, make sure then right is the same size. Then buy a piece of aluminum angle and cut to the same shape. Trace the existing one on a piece of paper, then turn it over and trace the mirror image onto the aluminum. Then give it to the upholsterer. I'd recommend some padding, too. Redo both front ones if you mess up the old one.

You're more likely to find the field has a ditch or two across it, or even a fence in the middle of it. I remember a C model ran out of fuel near AVL a few years back, landed in an open field and was doing well until hitting the barbed wire fence separating the field in half . . . . Just for fun, I sometimes count the wires crossing the rural roads around me. It can be 40+ on straight stretches less than a mile long. Aim for a divided highway, the more lanes the better. Not only do they have fewer crossing lines, but the signposts are only on one side, no mailboxes, etc.; on a standard two lane road, our wings will hit signs and mailboxes on both sides. Lanes are 12' wide, call it 2' from white line to speed limit sign, that's 14' from the center line, or 28' wide. Our wingspan is 36' . . . .

See you in Tampa this fall?

That's what most of us are. But it's impossible to keep bots from searching and reporting back to lowlife imbeciles like this one, so he can try to squeeze in between seller and buyer. Know who you're sending money too, don't just fling it at some weird email.

I have both, too. AccuFlight follows the heading bug, great for straight-line flight. AccuTrak follows whatever I program into my WAAS GPS--straight lines, turns, instrument approaches, etc. But neither one does anything with the elevator, you still have to watch and manage your altitude.

Many of mine are riveted in, so I remove all of the ones with screws. I keep one unpainted screw in each; it is loosened, the painted ones are removed, and the panel swivels out of the way. Then I can never mix them up during reinstall, and cuss because the screw holes are not all perfect matches. Seems like I remove about 4 panels per wing.

Bah humbug. Our politicians are mandating electric motors for everyone anyway, then during summer telling us to not run home AC or charge the electric vehicles they so badly want us to buy . . . . It's all about control, same as G100UL vs Swift94 vs 100LL. We will likely all end up paying more to use the fuel pushed the hardest by the most politicians . . . . Whether it works in our engines or not, it will be the only thing whose sale is permitted. Control!

Sounds like you already are! Mine's not too bad . . . .

Wow. Broke out of the clouds ~1000 agl, in a 4.8g spiral; two seconds later, passed through 8g and broke the wing spar at both main gear mounts!

I don't think an auto shop has ever damaged my vehicle when working on it. And I don't drive "high end," just basic stuff like Honda Accord, Ford Ranger and now a base model Nissan Altima. Fortunately, the A&Ps / IAs that I have used on my Mooney have not caused cosmetic damage that I've noticed. It was painted two owners ago, sometime in the 90s, and I think it looks pretty good still. I have had to ditch one shop due to quality and quantity of work, doing unapproved work, and stupid rates [we took your wheels off, decided your bearings are bad, then put it all back together. We want to charge you to jack up your plane, remove, clean and disassemble the wheels, replace & lube the bearings, then put everything back together.] After that experience, I needed a Ferry Permit to go to Joey Cole's and have the plane rerigged; he said I was lucky the gear came down to land, to say nothing of how out-of-whack the elevator was. [dumbass replaced the tie rod ends when I told him not to, because he didn't have rigging boards to make sure everything was right.] So far, four good ones and just the one bad apple.