Hank

Myntarget speeds around the pattern dont change, but I aim for 75 mph - 5 mph per 300 lbs under gross over the numbers. I'd imagine for a J that you'd use the same numbers but in knots. @donkaye, MCFI will know, it's his advice advice that I'm using, unless it's something I picked up at a Mooney Summit one time or another.

Its been beautiful for the past couple of weeks, right up until lunchtime today. These were taken Tuesday; temp was 66°, and I was climbing at 1500 fpm from 686 up to a bit over 1500, when it began slowing towards my normal 800 fpm. Winds were 3 knots.

For my 1970 C, the Owners Manual says the green stripe is "the normal operating range" and makes no mention of stall. You really need something like the table I posted before, but for a model year closer to yours, since control throws changed over the years.

Then how do you explain THIS: Power Off CAS = IAS - 1 at low speeds, climbing ti IAS - 3 at higher speeds.

To read what he wrote, I have to select a random spot and click on "Select all". Otherwise it's just invisible writing.

I agree with @Jackk's AI's invisible comments . . . .

@ptwffz, I've attached the relevant page from the Owners Manual for myn1970 C, but there were many changes made from 1964-1970. Do you have a similar page? There are additional Owners Manuals available in the Downloads section, you maynfindnine for a C with this information from a year closer to yours; I think I've seen a 1965 book there. P.S.--Pay attention to the offset note under the Airspeed Corrections table.

I climb WOT / 2700 at Vy all the way to cruise altitudes, whether 3000 or 9500 msl. I retyped the checklists from the old, brown book into Excel, and selected "Print in Booklet format," which fits perfectly onto my Sporty's kneeboard. It also left enough blank pages to retype most of the Performance Tables, which I refer to when setting power (including ATC level-offs when climbing and descending), but after a couple or three years I found myself using pretty much the same ones: 4000 and below: 23" / 2300 4500 - 7000: 22" / 2400 7500 and up: WOT- / 2500 The "WOT-" is what i described above, pull throttle back until the MP needle wiggles. Up high, I lean to peak then richen just a bit, as peak gives best efficiency. But I don't have fuel flow, I measure at the fuel pump after landing and divide by flight time. The single CHT needle stays near the top of the green band. Like in this old photo (I don't have many that show the gages at the top of the panel):

Hah! I'll hit it at a young 90!

I was watching, and still missed my own Post #20,000 . . . It was easier when your post count was in the avatar. I bought my Mooney in June 2007, then found and read all of the MAPA articles and as much of Coy Jacob's Mooneyland as I could stand the colors! Then in the fall of '08 I stumbled onto this site and it still sometimes becomes obsessive compulsive to visit, most days more than once. Got to fill in that lunch hour, eating at my desk, right?

Our Cs tend to run a bit warm. The Powerflo exhaust will make this tendency worse. What happens if you keep 2700 in the climb? Cruising at 8000 and up, I generally get 8.5-9 gph. For LOP, there are several things you can do to help: Reduce throttle just enough to make the MP needle start to move. This can be a surprising amount of movement, to cock the throttle plate and create turbulence inside the carb for better fuel atomization and mixing. Add a little Carb Heat. When things are going well, this lets me reach beyond 25 LOP smoothly. Go over your doghouse and make it seal as tightly as possible. This can involve sheet metal repair as well as high-temp RTV. Add a guppy mouth closure to that huge opening behind the prop, if it hasn't already been done. Studies have shown reversed airflow out the front of the cowl if the opening is not partially closed. Good luck with everything, and enjoy your new ride!

Isn't fuel pressure ~30 psi? My little C runs ~2 psi into the carb.

Try opening your door in the pattern at a nice, slow pattern speed. Then make a normal landing, close the door, takeoff and leave the pattern; return near your typical cruise speed and try to open the door. Slow down and make a normal landing. Did your door open far enough to shove out a burning iPad? My money is on "NO." Of course, you can hold your cool, non-burning iPad and twist it around while leaning over the empty right seat.and manage to get it out the narrow opening, but you won't have the time (and may not have the empty right seat) to do that with a burning piece of electronics.

Keep the flaps and gear up, bank 45°, then lower the nose to get back to cruise airspeed or higher if necessary. This will be a faster descent rate than going slower. If I'm in an emergency descent, I'm going to prioritize getting on the ground, so the higher the descent rate the better. Level off, aim for somewhere open and relatively flat, drop flaps and gear and set her down.

There are two kinds of emergency descent: 1. Straight ahead, cruise configuration, push to descend a d stabilize airspeed just below Vne. I'll save this for an external engine fire, hoping to blow it out. 2. Reduce power, bank 45° and spiral down rapidly at cruise airspeed. This has pegged my IVSI at well over 2000 fpm, plenty fast enough from my typical 7-10K cruising altitude. Not only does the second get me down quicker, it's also more fun to do! And doesn't require keeping as close of an eye on the ASI or anything else on the panel.

I've stacked oil on the horizontal stab, then my wrench roll and several bound approach plate booklets. Keep adding stuff until the nose gets very light, then have a helper push down on the tail and hold it in position. This works only for short periods.

Your best chance is to quickly throw it out the storm window. Open it with your left hand, toss it with the right before it gets burned too badly.

It would be difficult to maintain 13" clearance from occupants in both front seats. Although long bodies could out in the far back window and keep it away from both front seats and one rear passenger. Us Short Body owners can only maintain clearance from either (but not both) front seats.

There's always the poor E with the dropped battery pack that caught fire while taxiing for departure . . .

I don't want to be in any Mooney while someone sprays Halon anywhere . . .

FTFY.

Our Mooney doors only open ~2" in flight, you won't toss burning electronics out of it. And finding and opening a bag to carefully drop that flaming thing in will be very difficult to do in flight. Check your tablet and see if it will fit out the storm window. My Galaxy Tablet fits (I set it on the panel during preflight / loading through the storm window). That will make a quick, easy open and toss motion, not requiring fumbling around for a bag or leaning across and pushing hard on the door.

I just put one in a year ago. I'm still usually routed around the ATL Bravo, but did get cleared through in both directions on my first trip with it.

No, he unhooked the morse key and plugged into the wire.

Mooney wasn't using Dukes then, unless it's been replaced. My 1970 C has ITT