zerotact

Thanks… that’s a tiny screw

Work gets crazy and I have to work on things in my downtime… I would have thought maybe some people with others that had factory loran would give input or post photos of where their Waas rated reciever is..

Hiya guys, and ladies .. I had planned to pull the loran then just put a gps antenna in its place… but deeper reading, I should go ahead and put new rg400 cable in… then I find out I should keep my rg400 cable length under 9ft… Are most people just replacing the loran, placing the gps in the same hole? Or, moving the gps further up to get the rg400 cable run shorter?

I’m stumped at how to remove the sun visors … any tips?

Hi, I’ve been looking at getting seats redone. As we know materials come into question, is there anyone that’s been involved with redoing seats know how much material it took to do all 4 seats ?

No, there is no existing gps in the plane or any Garmin products... the beauty of the sky beacon / tail beacon is that the A&P could sign off on the install, keeping you from having to pay for a trip to the avionics shop.. I believe the gdl - 82 is like this as well.. Replacing the transponder in the panel would most likely not prevent this .. this would I do not want to turn a $2000 problem into a $20,000 bill. I just didn’t know if there was a solution I was not aware of..

Hi, Whats the best way to get printed hard copies of the shop and parts manual?

Lets please ignore the fact that I have procrastinated too long on ADS-B. I had originally planned UAVIONIX, But it seems like Garmin has come down on the Prices and the GDL 82 is about the same in price. What has other owners experience been like? I don't want an avionics shop treating this like a cat with a ball of twine, But I would consider more is there was a good reason.

I want to plan new seats for my m20j that has two rear seats and not a bench. I was wanting to know from someone with experience, how many hides or sq feet should this job take ?

I just test ran mine and my gauges hold steady now... i reseated all the wires on the master switch, cannon plug to the regulator and the ground wire in the regulator circuit

I originally had something similar, and found a bad Diode when I took the alternator in to get tested... Fast forward two or more years later, the plane was sitting getting a new engine, At overhaul a Plane power unit was installed. The plane was fine during test flights, then parked. One of the next flights, the gauges are dancing all over, it gets worse with more load, and the ammeter looks like its vibrating its moving so fast. No I too am back to square one, I doubt my alternator is the culprit. Its cold so I have not pulled it out and test ran the engine after pulling and reseating the wires to the master switch and the cannon plug to the VR... Is there other things to look at or is my faster needle wiggle something completely different?

I had a file with the drawings but they came out blurry ... it said it was originally a 2x4ft layout... how can I get high res file of 800330E-6 which covers m20j 24-1214 through 24-1417?

I disconnected the rods and it was quickly evident when I tried to close them... the new metal was not notched out to clear the exhaust....

The cowl flap itself was mostly original but the all the rest of the metal is new ... the whole cowling was a complete overhaul

So, Buttoning up the plane after a lot of work done, The cowl flaps aren't closing all the way. Looking at the mechanism it looks like the only adjustment I have is the rod length that connects to the flap itself. As the bar that the rods connect to are rotating to top dead center and then just a bit past. So the rod length that connects to the flaps is the only adjustment, I say this because the whole from of the plane has been apart and rebuilt and the cowl flaps look equally open but the rods only affect one side at a time.