0TreeLemur

I think I see the problem. Thanks to @LANCECASPER for including that link! My IFD-540 is running S/W Ver. 10.2.4.1 We took possession of this J in January. After reading the Avidyne forums, I learned that the 10.3.0.2 release out at that time had some annoying features (e.g. re-tuning radios to Melbourne, FL each power cycle). It seems that ver. 10.3.1.2 fixed that frequency problem. Vers. 10.3.02 included other upgrades to allow display of ADS-B input from portable devices! That's why I can't do what I want. My unit needs a software upgrade. Does this require a dealer or can a bloke with an engineering degree do it? Thx to all. Fred

Reasonable offers considered. It's not doing me any good sitting in a box.

Aha. That little ol' yellow box explains it and kind of pees on my campfire. My iPad already gets position info from a plug-in Garmin GPS dongle (the only Garmin gear in my a/c btw.) Drat. I see no need to connecting anything wifi to my iPad. I run Foreflight all the time. It's too bad the Avidyne Skynav Pro is so darned expensive. Ok. I appreciate the input. I'll lower my expectations.

For those of you with an Avidyne IFD-540, I have a question regarding possible communications between Stratus and IFD. Recently I figured out how to get the IFD to connect as a client to the Stratus. At least the SSID for the Stratus shows up in the IFD wifi configuration, the wifi icon indicates strong signal, but it remains white not green. The white wifi icon suggests that the connection is not active. What's more, there seem to be no options do display any of the ADS-B information (traffic/radar) on the IFD like I'd hoped to do. Is that an IFD feature that requires an add-on? If not, can anyone point me to a resource explaining how to do it? Thx. Fred

Common solution to an optimization problem in an information poor, flat solution space...

Thanks. Our J has a "Spatial Interior" with no strap on the interior by the top of the door. I miss that feature from our C.

We did the same in our C too. Worked well, but I like the look of the stock ones.

I agree Paul. My statement lacked specificity because both mixture and cowl flap setting and cooling air distribution are confounding effects. However, I was thinking more of detecting changes from experience. Consider the particular case of cruising flight in an engine with good baffles and a reasonably well balanced cooling air flow distribution. In this case an unusual deviation of CHT would indicate a power deviation in a cylinder, wouldn't it? In our J, all engine monitor data since 2020 indicate that #2 CHT consistently runs about 20F cooler than the others in cruise after leaning. CHTs 1, 3, and 4 are typically within about 5F of each other. According to the JPI EDM900, cyl #2 is not the leanest or richest when I lean it out LOP. It seems to me that that this difference results from cooling effects. If I ever see a deviation from that, I'll be suspicious of some change in power production. Does this make sense?

Yesterday the door pull on our M20J broke while closing the door. The material failed at one of the fastening holes near the end. Does anyone know of a source or have some of that material? Thx. Fred

Our J has an Avidyne 540 (WAAS GPS, ILS), KX155 w/o GS, and a Avidyne 340 Mode S extended squitter ADS-B out transponder, plus a Stratus for ADS-B in. Sorry fellas, no big G. Last week I played this game with Fort Worth Radio. It had been over a year since I filed IFR in the air. Very frustrating. After I returned, I found an Avidyne guide that told me that for this feature set my aircraft has: Equipment: BGRS Surveillance: B2, E PBN: B2, C2, D2, O2, S1

This Electronics International graphical engine monitor (CGR-30P) was removed from our '83 M20J as part of a panel upgrade. This unit was installed new in 2020 as the "Basic Package", but was modified by the factory to add display of Oil Temperature, which is not included in the basic package. This unit has about 150 flight hours on it. The STC is downloadable from EI's web page. This would go right back into a M20J with an IO-360 with a McCauley propeller. Reprogramming limits for other engines or propellers by the factory costs about $700. Works great for engine management. AS sells this unit new for 3.4 AMUs. I'm asking 2.25 AMUs. Includes everything as removed. The photo shows the unit for sale operating in our M20J in January, 2023.

Drat, you figured it out already. That was going to be my guess. CHT is the indicator of power production, and a single lower than normal EGT in a cylinder that is making normal power just doesn't make sense in a fuel injected engine. Glad you figured it out.

Sunday returning from New Mexico- avoiding thunderstorms at 7,500 ft. over eastern Arkansas. We cinched up before going under this stuff. To our pleasant surprise, it was smooth as glass.

The mechanism is a simple microswitch. Your contacts are not disengaging when the tab is fully downward deflected. Most likely out of adjustment. Perhaps the ice load somehow put enough force on the mechanism to push it out of adjustment. Perhaps the switch has failed. It requires servicing. The mechanism as I've heard it described is very simple. Mine will sometimes trigger after I wash the wings and catch a rag on it. The next time I turn the master switch on, the warning sounds. The stall horn only goes off if I go outside and push down on the tab. I'm worried that it is nearing an out of adjustment condition. Good luck. Keep us posted so we can learn from your experience.

So we know that -a- is flying. Where is he flying? Anyone know his tail number so we can follow him?

If no insurance, time for every one involved to

When I arrived in the SAF area Sunday after surfing some mountain wave, wind at LAM were 9G18. Diverted to SAF. Enroute, with DA of 10,100 at LAM, calculate 70 KIAS over the fence would actually be 81 KTAS. When I landed at SAF wind was 20 knots right down runway 20.

Fun video @PT20J. I'm flying to New Mexico again tomorrow. Planning to land at LAM, with SAF as plan B. Also planning to control my energy on final better than Harry Bliss!

Update. By using a shallow tray with some 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, dipping the case of the keyboard in and rubbing vigourously with a rough paper towel, pulled off a bunch of black goo. It's quite a bit better now. Another go and it will probably be non-tacky.

Yes, so was the one in my C. I dialed in a great calibration. It changed once over the five years I owned it, and was again spot-on after recalibration. Not sure why I'm seeing randomness in the installation in my J. I was hoping that someone solved this problem already and could give me a hint. The fuel pump doesn't lie.

M20J with no factory engine gauges:

The JPI EDM900 fuel flow sender in our previous C model was dialed in perfectly. It would say 43 gallons used, and when I filled it up, it took more or less 43 gallons. In our J model, the fuel flow sensor it isn't so accurate. Three weekends ago I flew 21 hours over three days. Lots of opportunities to compare indicated vs. actual fuel use. On one long cross country the totalizer said I used 50 gallons, when the actual use was 43. Another time, the JPI said I used 56 gal. when actual use was 62 gal. That's +15/-9% error. Anyone else dealt with this before? Thx.

I've got both. I've taken over several times from George when it has either disconnected due to turbulence, or failed to capture the vertical descent path (typ. due to operator error learning a new system or a slam dunk). I look at the steam gauges to get the quickest sight picture, especially the VSI and altimeter. The glass attitude indicator is easier to read than the vacuum one though.

The prior owner seems to have left it in the airplane, held to the panel with velcro. So maybe @ArtVandelay has the right idea. But I've got a plastic beard trimmer and an ooma VOIP box that both have had the same thing happen to them and they lived their entire lives indoors. Maybe it's humidity? Plenty of that to go around here in 'bama. I'll give it the @DonMuncy talcum powder treatment.

The Avidyne IFD-540 in our J came with a tiny bluetooth keyboard. The plastic on the keyboard case has become tacky (as in sticky feeling, not gauche or untastefully out of date). I tried magnetic tape cleaning isopropyl alcohol and rubbing. While that helped maybe a little, it's still tacky. What's the best way to deal with this? I've got several handheld electronic things that this has happened to as well. Some say baking soda solution. Before playing whack-a-mole, I seek professional advice. Oddly enough, I peeled the velcro off the back of the keyboard and in the area protected by the velcro adhesive the plastic feels normal. Thx. Fred