0TreeLemur

Along those lines: can anyone point to a previous thread(s) here on MS with photos showing a proper recoveries after mishaps? Horror stories are interesting, but improved understanding of how to do it correctly would be valuable (and FAQ worthy).

Full disclosure. When I duplicate my work, I often catch mistakes too. Using spreadsheets created by others is risky. Sometimes the sign in formulas (+/-) is the opposite of what the user assumes based on a column header.

Evidence suggests otherwise. Even without adhesion on the bottom of the capsule, those have stayed in my J for years (decades?). There isn't one "right" way to do this.

In my opinion Jake from Bevan Aviation is a living GOD. His willingness to share his experience on this site has helped many, including me. Knowing that he exists helps me sleep at night. As the owner /operator of a KFC-150 a/p this PIREP warms my heart. Thanks for sharing @Will.iam

"Never weigh an airplane. Nothing good comes from it." - my dear departed A&P/IA Dave. A basic paint job weighs at least 30 lb. If not stripped when re-painted, this adds a lot of weight. In my experience, A&P's struggle to make accurate W&B calcs. Probably because they don't have time to check their work. I duplicate their work and catch mistakes every time. Digital scales sometimes lie, even when recently calibrated.

Yes, silicone. As you can see, the person who installed the ones that I removed used too much. They almost filled the receptacle, and most of it was not in contact with the indicator capsule. I tried not to use too much. Just put a small bead around the outer edge of the capsule that makes contact with the recessed rim and install it. I used painters tape on the face of the dial so I could insert it without having to hold it by the edges.

Hmmm. Never claimed to be. But I have "walked" in Lunar and Martian gravity and logged over 10 h of 0-g time in the NASA Vomit Comet, 25 seconds at at time. Next fly-in should include name tags, and they should include our MS screen names!

From the theory: The airspeed indicator is just a pressure gauge with a particular set of marks on it to correspond to the solution of the equation V=sqrt(2*delta_P/rho) where delta_P is given by (P_pitot - P_static), and rho is sea-level STP air density. What's causing delta_P in terms of mixture, etc., cannot affect it. My guess is that while you were doing your test, you flew into a different air mass having a different wind component. That's a more likely explanation.

Here's another pic showing a pretty good job of alignment done by the ground crew! The first one is our "new" J.

Our J has an IFD 540. Transitioning to it from a Garmin 430W was painful for the first few flights. There are quite a few good videos on YouTube, and a good simulator for the iPad that help figure it out. A few practice flights and an IPC with it cleared up most of my issues. It's FMS capabilities are really powerful. Its software provides a lot of options with dynamic buttons depending on what you are doing. I too like the fact that you can do everything with buttons in rough air. It drives the KFC-150 a/p just great.

Except the G5 flies backwards!

Should have been more clear. I got one of these but didn't pay that much for it. It comes with no mount, or it got lost at my A&P's shop... By "external" I mean not internal to the stratus, not on the outside of the airplane. There is an extra L-band antenna on the bottom of my bird from a since removed DME. I'll connect to that someday when she's sufficiently disassembled.

The one and only time I flew into Fisher's Island, N.Y., located in Long Island Sound, it looked like a postage stamp. 2300 with beach at both ends. Definitely changed my perspective.

In my experience a little velcro goes a long way.

Our C had an Appareo transponder connected to a Stratus 2i ads-b receiver. This was awesome, because the Stratus was connected to one of the ships' an external L-band transponder antennas. Our J has no such thing. I have a Stratus 3 sitting on the glareshield and the ads-b reception (FIS-B and TIS-B) is not nearly as good. It doesn't detect as many nearby aircraft either. So I bought an external L-band ads-b antenna for it, which came without a mount. How do folks mount their external antenna?

I use miles to buy airline tickets well in advance of important trips. Cancel up to 24 hours in advance, and they just put the miles back in your account. I use Windy.com. They show output from several different weather prediction models (NOAA GFS and EMCWF). With an 16 hour time forecast lead time you can browse output from NOAA's High Resolution Rapid Refresh (HRRR) model run, giving you a pretty detailed forecast of tomorrow's weather tonight. That will show you how organized the convection will likely be. You can watch forecasts diverge as you increase the forecast lead time. Beyond 5-7 days forecast lead time- forget it. Just because a model gives a forecast for days 7-14 doesn't mean that it has much if any value.

One other thing. I was surprised to find that the trim/flap indicator light on our J is on the glareshield light dimmer, not the panel light dimmer. I wonder why they did that? I'd prefer it be on the panel light circuit, because I don't ordinarily use the glareshield lights.

Done. Here are the steps I took on the second one, because I learned a bit from the first one. Here's a HOWTO in the style of @carusoam, with supporting photos. 1. Tools: carpet knife, two thin flat blade screwdrivers, plastic scraper 2. Target: crazed sight gage lens 3. Score lens with knife until through 4. Insert small blade screwdriver through plastic lens where scored through 5. Gently pry to break out lens in chunks 6. Insert small screwdriver around perimeter and gently pry up 7. Once you get it up far enough to insert a second screwdriver, pry sequentially to extend gap 8. At some point you'll hear the silicone bonds start to break 9. Lift old gauge out 10. Bottom of gage receptacle is full of dried silicone 11. Use plastic scraper to remove 12. It takes some elbow grease 13. Viola!

Works now. Replaced bulb this evening. Used a 3/8" open end wrench to back out the socket. Thanks @PT20J for the guidance!

Both are IO-360 with minor case differences. Regarding fuel servo I don't know, probably the same I'd guess. From my experience with our C, I do know that the O-360 used in the C&G uses takeoff ff of 18 gph for 180 hp to keep the CHT's below 410. Therefore, for 200 hp with the IO-360, the take off ff should be nearer to 20 gph.

Your takeoff fuel flow looks like it might be too low. It should be closer to 20 gph when taking off near sea level. In my J it is close to 20 gph and my CHT's are below 350.

Hover your cursor over the icon for the user, and an option will pop up "Ignore". Click that.

The list format gives -a- away.

A month ago I read that one of the strengths of chat-gpt is in writing code. Over the past few weeks I've been testing it. It can write simple code to do ordinary things. That's good. But when given a challenging problem, it makes assumptions that are silly, and/or violate the problem statement. I tried leading it around the block and found that each iteration it would sometimes forget where we had been and make the same silly assumptions once again. I remain unimpressed.