hypertech

Parts removed from upgrades to a 2000 M20R June 2020. Prices are best guesses - make me an offer if you think the price is off. Four fuel senders (2-PN 610242-1, 2-PN 610242-5 overhauled May/June 19 by Air Parts of Loch Haven. Were run for a short while and then ended up coming out for an upgrade to Cies senders when the avionics shop got under the panel (victims of while-you-are-at-it-itus). Also two fuel processors PN 857905. And one JPI 790802 resistive fuel quantity module. Senders $200 each, fuel processors $50 each, JPI module $20, take it all $750. Aerotech components CV1J4 air filter (don't believe these see through filter casings are made anymore) $40, Rapco RA-D9-18-1 filter with Parker IJ7-I filter adapter $40, Sigmatek 1U128B vacuum pump $150, Parker 2H3-39 vacuum regulator $50. Take it all $200. KI-256 overhauled March 2019 by Bob Bramble at Aerolab aviation (for $2000). Now yours for $1000 KI-525a $500 KG-102a directional gyro with KA51B slaving accessory and kmt112 magnetic azimuth transmitter $500 KA33 Avionics cooling kit SOLD King instrument combo: $1750. REDUCED TO 1700 KFC225 autopilot with kcm 100 config module $1500 KS270C pitch servo $750 KS271C servo $750 KS272C trim servo $750 Assortment of mooney mounting plates (can check / list part numbers if needed) $500 The King Autopilot Combo: $2500 Davtron M800 clock SOLD Mid-Continent MD26-28 DC-AC inverter $125

The only heat is the center floor vent. If you have the overheads or knee vents on, you are just mixing in cold air. Under the copilot dash is the mixing valve where the outside and heat air flappers are before being directed to the floor vent. Open this up and look at it. A number of them have holes cut in the flapper such that there is always outside air mixed in. I'm told this was done at the factory out of a monoxide concern (the solution to pollution is dilution...). Get a Sensorcon and cover those holes up with a piece of baffling or tape. It helps but the heat for the front row is still not super duper strong. I often wonder how people fly in the flight levels without their toes falling off. Also, if you are flying LOP and are cold, switch to ROP, get the EGT's up and you might get more heat.

There is a set screw to adjust the level indicator somewhere. I've had the float repaired and that adjusted at least once. Here's the thing though - if its winter and there might be ice, I fill it full all the way till it starts to overflow (outside the hangar). Then I do the ground preflight and make sure all the panels are fully wet. And then I top it off till it hits the overflow again. The last thing I want is to be flying an approach at the other end of a 4+ hour flight and find out that I run out. So, to me, the level indicator is nice, but I don't rely on it.

There are smarter people than me when it comes to definitions of psychology, but is this really expectation bias? Expectation bias would be, I put the gear handle down, I did a GUMPS check and I expected the light to be out because its burnt out. However, the gear actually failed to deploy but I didn't know because I expected the light to be out. On the other hand, you just got distracted on final and forgot to put the gear down or do a GUMPS check. Expectation bias doesn't really come into it - it just wasn't done. With an indicator out, I don't know how you do a GUMPS check without looking at the handle and/or the floor.

Are the control rods really that strong? I would have guessed that the pin holding the yoke would come off before a control input could break the wings.

In this instance, market value is only half relevant because you aren't selling a share. You need a price this person is agreeable to that is representative of the value in the partnership, which also probably takes into account any reserve funds, etc. I'd start with what you insure it for and work from there. After all, that is the value the partnership agreed to accept and walk away with if there was a total loss.

Probably already done, but be sure you are on the latest software. There was a version where it would stay alive after shut down but with the screen off, which would run down the battery. I noticed this when one of mine was always low when I started up but the other fine. Software update fixed it. I've also noticed that if you power up but only briefly for something, sometimes they turn on and stay on (but at least after the update the screens are lit so you know it).

In addition to the low claim value, it may be an uphill battle proving you actually have a claim. I'd probably just pay to fix it and move on. Take it as a lesson to plan ahead next time and not park next to the lightening.

paging @Parker_Woodruff Generally agents all quote the same sources but there might be some companies that are available with certain agents and not others.

They didn't mark the price up 50% with the aviation sticker. It must not be the same.

I did one a couple years ago. It was a very good experience. I'm going again this year in September.

KHFD at least used to have a few cars available at the FBO. Its not exactly next door but also not all that long to new haven from here.

http://www.glapinc.com/ I sent mine to them, they did the trimming and practically nothing but drilling the holes was needed on my end to replace them. If you don't have it, they will also supply you the correct bit you need to drill holes.

Are you worried about blowing the hot air exhaust right onto the avionics? At least in my plane that's where the transponder other things are mounted.

I took the CFI I planned to do my transition training and instrument rating with to look at planes. I figured he had seen far more Mooneys and knew how they should behave than I had. The first plane was local and got the red flag. The second plane was not. It was well worth paying his day rate and for an airplane ticket to do that.

When my mounts were new, they put up a hell of a fight to put those bolts in. I wonder if it would be easier now that they have some time on them. I think I may go call my MSC and see if they concur.

Has anyone actually done this on an Ovation and had it work? I also replaced my mounts when I did an overhaul and the engine is in the exact same place. I've been told its normal and can't be shimmed by two MSCs.

bkool and a bag of ice will get you meaningful cooling for taxi and climb out. And by meaningful I bet like 10 degrees - its not a cold AC. If you want real AC, Kelly Aerospace will sell you one.

If you have the copper tube, see if it wiggles - it breaks all the time. Replace it with the steel version from CAV or there may be one available in stock at Total Aircraft at HFD. not sure about your install but on the long body there is also a hose from the firewall to the slinger body. Check that. Sounds more like it’s loose at the firewall.

Same happened to me but we didn't catch it before the garbage lifters scored the cam. Consider yourself lucky and to have dodged the bullet. I ended up with an overhaul.

That's it. And when you get your EDM900, you have 10 hours to program in the number of hours and the "true" speed or it has to go back to JPI. I didn't realize that, the shop forgot to do it, I flew 8.6 hours home and got lucky. My timer in the baggage compartment stopped spinning when I got the EDM900 upgrade. Not sure if that's how it is supposed to go or not but that's how mine got put in.

I have 4 that were overhauled not long before they were pulled for a Cies upgrade.

I have an entire KFC-225 in a box that I need to list for sale. I'll look tonight and see if its the same part number. No reasonable offer refused. It needs to go.

@AGL Aviationis a good shop. They just completed my annual on a 2000 Ovation yesterday. If they do a prebuy for you, make sure you ask them to pull a lifter or two and look at the cam. This probably is a good plane at the right price. You'll have to decide for you what the right price is. Mine was not sitting this long and it didn't save me from having to do the engine and having to chase a few gremlins. Its nothing time and money can't fix, right?

My plan is to use a grout sponge stuffed in the window to stay sealed and let the extension cord through, but your solution looks much more elegant.