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McMooney

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Everything posted by McMooney

  1. I got somewhere between 3 and 5kts out of the lasar closure, one of the better upgrades i've done. can't say the same for the hubcaps. best upgrade was just waxing the plane, before the cowl closure that easily gave me 3 to 4 kts.
  2. you know, when i had my 2nd class i flew above 18k then a month later i got basic med, wth is the diff? magical grim reaper waiting at 18001? an increase to useable turbo altitudes would be appreciated.
  3. i fill my portable at the local gas supply, had to force the guy to take 20$ last time
  4. I"m a surefly convert, wish i could have dual. the thing just works. when doing a mag check there's barely any drop on the surefly. flying at altitude lop is where it shines, i flew from montgomery to klch on my way to ksgr and due to flying super lop,l i needed something like 20ish gallons for a top off. mag overhaul damn near cost as much as the surefly, 2 would dwarf the cost of the surefly. there was a time i lost my alternator lead, even at 10volts, 2hours in, the surefly didn't even blink. given a backup battery i'm good
  5. good to know, i just got mine a couple of months back. also a new to me avionics master, hehe never knew how bad i had it till i got a switch that turned everything off at once
  6. what test can a dpe not administer now on basicmed? I was told by my dpe taking the commercial with basic is just fine? 28k would be nice
  7. did the batteries in the g5's not work? why turn them off ?
  8. 2x gi-275's are basically a complete panel, they can replace all flight instruments, g5's cannot
  9. I've noticed ever since getting the g5's something about having the numbers seems to cause me to fly more exact. It's not actually reading of the numbers, my brain seems to just better respond to the movement of the display rather than the analog instruments. I'm a computer guy so that probably has something to do with it.
  10. personally, i'd keep the original radio and spend the cash other places. I thought about upgrading my kx170b/mx170b until i realized it does the exact same thing as a newer radio. I will need to replace it for an 8.33 radio in a few years. so if the tail beacon is working for you, i'd go 2x gi-275 and gnc 355 put the rest of the money in my pocket till after overhaul. dynons are really nice btw. If you have an ap/ia buddy that can look over your shoulder, id go that way. dynon or trutrak will eventually get their stuff together, maybe 8)
  11. 30 TO 35K, is a bit tight these installers want all the money now a days. i'd do 2x gi-275s, you get all the glass minimal change to your panel. gnc 355 second comm and waas gps gtn 375 adsb in/out and backup gps. for ifr training and light stuff you don't absolutely need an autopilot, absolutely great to have but not necc. by itself, quotes i received for the gfc500 were all in the neighborhood of 30k. but those could've been go away prices.
  12. I"m guessing it isn't just me, all the independent CFI's i've contacted want to wait till Sept/Oct before helping me with my commerical
  13. So day 2 couple lessons, 1. epoxy primer is TOUGH, feels stronger than the aluminum. think i'm going to skip the epoxy for the rest of the touchups. paint only needs to last another 4 or 5 years anyway. now when i redo the whole plane, if not chromate, epoxy will def be the base. It's like coating the aluminum in impenetrable plastic. 2. set a limit as to what you will do, i originally started trying to fix a really bad spot, now i'm sitting her wondering how long it'll take me to sand and pre the rest of the cabin
  14. Someting has changed, been working in the hangr @100+, yesterday i noticed, that except for needing water, i really didn't fell "hot". wasn't cool like ac or something ust that "feeling" of hot was missing
  15. Yes, just hand sanding for now, really didn't want to get overly aggressive with it. mostly used a scotch-brite pad, then some 400/600 grit paper to make sure the primer had a surface. the primer is a ppg epoxy primer to seal the surface. my first time using it, hoping it sands really well. next will most likely be some buildup primer then a sealer prior to paint.
  16. MS, seems i went crazy today. started off thinking of going flying ended up with parts of birdy covered in primer. originally was gonna be just the door but that paint just kept flaking. prob take another few days to get her totally primed and sanded.
  17. honestly sounds like a perfect reason for owner produced part... I'd source one of same volt/amp/duty cycle or take it to the local motor rebuilder. 20k is extreme in the least
  18. Wife named her Birdy
  19. Gp logging import was pretty straightforward, no real difficulties but i did have a nice csv to start. as for tying to a subscription, i make it a point to export my logs to cloud and computer atleast twice a year.
  20. honestly, everytime i get in the plane it's my ass on the line; I value my ass very much. 8) yes i'd trust me working on it, even more than i trust the ap/ia. If experimentals don't decrease in value, why would my mooney? I'm gonna sell at a price i'm good with, some guy doesn't like it, uhmm see ya
  21. every shop that's taken my interior apart has left somethign up, from broken lights to missing screws, without FAIL, from the mooney guru to the random shop
  22. when i purchased my plane, i just found a good shop on field totally unrelated to the seller. gave them a list to check for corrosion, everywhere, including the tube sbs and check the engine and gear. then i had that same shop annual it after they checked my major items.
  23. it's really easy, kcwf usually has inexpensive gas and they may just let you borrow the crew car. klch is ok
  24. I can understand the seller, mechanics and planes = trouble, esp if you're taking her apart to any extent. When I sell birdy, i'll let you bring your guy to the hangar or even use a shop on field but she's not flying anywhere till someone's paid
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