Browncbr1

Forget the dislike button. Where is the diarrhea button?

There is simply no reason to fly so slow and flirt with performance limits if you don't have to. A gust or sheer will change things in a split second. It is way easier to slow down or lose altitude than it is to recover. I'm still wondering if this is what happened to houmond and his so from Quebec last year. IMHO

Do yourself a favor and just send your mags to a mag shop. Don't bother with Kelley "overhauled" mags. They will ship you garbage. Make sure you receive the same serial number mags back after a mag shop opens up your mags and irans.

I choose not to fly at night for this and other reasons During the day, I leave my stoves and landing light on continuously, but It still seems as though I have to maneuver to avoid birds every time I fly. Most recently a bald eagle at 2000agl. I'd hate to hit one of those massive birds. I was on the way to ne Ohio a few weeks ago and passed three small birds flying along at 10,000. Eyes outside!

Thanks for the feedback guys.. I too have always had leather seats in my cars and have appreciated the ease of cleanup after children eating stacks and spilling drinks.. I just thought maybe because my cars have always been in garages with good heat and AC, it would be different for a plane sitting out in a shade hangar.. Currently, I don't have any comfort issues... I would like the smell and look of leather, but just wouldn't want to take a step backward in comfort in those hot or cold days because I have absolutely no functional problem with my current seats... I'm leaning toward not fixing something that isn't broken! (not to mention the cost would pay for some nice panel upgrades)

Just curious what people (who have gone from fabric to leather seats) have to say about hot and cold weather. We've had a really hot summer, so these day's I tend to think I'm glad I have fabric seats that breath well.. I'm also wondering about cold weather, if it takes a long time to warm up. with my current seats, there are none of these issues.. In 90+ degree weather, how are leather seats? Do they cause you to sweat a lot? Does anyone have perforated leather? just wondering what experiences folks have had.

i know mine has a drain in the tail.. i'll be out there this week and look under the yoke

I saw in my POH that it was an option and I also read that they are often hidden and not labeled. The plane was certified for IFR... I do have pitot heat, but am unclear if alternate air is just required if flying for hire. In any case, if it's not there, it seems adding a T and valve to the static line would be very cheap and easy to accomplish.

I have a related question. I have a 67 F and a friend said I should have an alternate static air somewhere, but I can't find it... Isn't that required for IFR cert?

has anyone tried an IFD440 with an MFD such as mx20? Is that better than just the IFD550 alone ?

i run my 67F usually at 23" 2300rpm down low (~65%) 25LOP and I get 138ktas when loaded up heavy, but 147ktas if its just me and half fuel. up high, I'll increase rpm to compensate for lost MAP. Fuel burn ends up being about 7.5gph in cruise either way. some people run them harder, but I'm going for longevity. That extra 5ktas seems to demand so much more from the engine. I don't have any speed mods.. oem windshield, etc. Edit; forgot to mention I have a clean top prop that I continually keep clean. Also, condition of paint, wax, and cleanliness of the plane will probably have a greater effect than speed mods imo

Perhaps an edm with FF would have shown warning signs leading up to this. If FF wasn't normal, it could have been quantified leading to a better pilot decision.

imho, a fresh overhaul seems more risky to me than one that has ~400-500 hours already on it.

the #2 CDI in my plane when I bought it was off about 12 degrees... It was an older narco cdi that had a tiny graphite washer holding the OBS card.. I was advised that some of the old units that had this would allow the card to slip out of alignment and the washer is so brittle that fixing it is unlikely as new parts aren't easily available. I bought a used KI-208 for $200, which required new plug termination and the problem was solved. I would check the contacts as bradp suggested, but I would bench test the Nav radio before thinking about getting a new CDI. repairing old nav heads seems to be sketchy.

Pulled this from my plane a while back. I didn't realize these were so much new, so someone might want this on second market. http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/aerocom3.php Works well, has music input and the 4 passenger expansion module. Comes also wired with pilot and copilot ppt yoke switches, but the copilot ppt switch has some cracked plastic where the Velcro loops through. Still functional, but can use some epoxy there. I have some plastic weld in my shop, so I can do it if requested. Can send photo... Cant seem to upload from my iPhone ;(

it's ok with just one person in the front but when i have someone in the copilot seat who is, say 180lbs or more, we hit elbows and i have to tell them to keep clear of the Jbar and flap pump... a small price to pay for the speed in my opinion...

sounds like the lead connected to the mag may have come loose either at the mag or at the DB pin. I had a pin that hadn't fully seated when the installer put in my 830. It was for the oil pressure,,, I pulled the DB connector and saw the pin wasn't sticking out as far as the others, a little push and click solved it,

ask and you shall receive!

Patto, I would humbly suggest a JPI 830 or better. I believe they pay for themselves by saving on exploratory maintenance and help you see things before they become dire, such as sticky valves or ignition issues. I and many others consider a good EDM a must... I prefer the 830 to maintain some redundancy. Navigation wise, there are a lot of opinions to go with big dollar solutions, but I love my Aera 510 mounted at the top of my radio stack. I paid $400 for it second hand and can't think of anything that delivers a better bang for buck. It also helped me identify a leaky altimeter above 7000. you can load and activate approaches (just for sit. awareness). Also, as you are starting on your IR, you might want to think about back up AI and where it will go. enjoy your new toy! craig

Hi David, I think you had mentioned earlier, but couldn't find it... Regarding the oil cooler, are you offering a lower cowl option that is just smooth down there for folks who have the oil cooler relocation mod? I've been thinking about doing that mod because there is a certain airspeed in cruise that stops air flow through there and my oil temp gets high pretty quickly... but this is based on my oem cowl... perhaps your cowl improves oil cooling because of the smaller inlets?? Also, very interested to hear about your discussions at OSH about spinners! Thanks Craig

FYI, the dynon D2 already comes with an additional external GPS antenna, internal battery, and several mounting hardware setups. Gps drives the DG on both units. Sounds like now that garmin decided to double the price, the logical choice for many folks like me will remain the D2. It's amazing to me that garmin would do that.

is it correct that the price of the G5 just went from $1200 to $2500 when the STC was issued?

According to the install manual, the control box goes 2" behind firewall on left or right side depending on model. Mine is a 67 F so it went on the right side. I don't recall seeing any drawings showing it in the tail cone. I don't see any functional difference, but I'm just going on what the manual says. It's possible that many were installed in the tail for simplicity sake irrespective of drawings. If I were at home now, I would have a look at the manual and post here. Regarding the pitch, Jerry says the small box below the larger computer box has a diaphragm in it that can be stretched or worn out, especially if alt hold is left on and overridden to descend. You should have two small plastic reducers on the two large lines going to the elevator servos. Make sure they are there and no leaks there, at fittings, or at servos. You should be able to run the engine on the ground and turn on the alt hold and shit down.... Then go to your servo cables and see if they become loose.

I'll comment on the D2 since I recently bought one... One nice thing is that it puts out a wifi signal that streams all the data to iPad or iPhone. I had an extra iPhone laying around, so I velcroed it to the right panel for copilot use in emergency. It has ground track, speed , altitude vertical speed, everything. In vfr turbulence with a lot of side gusts that cause a lot of yaw movement, I noticed the horizon was a bit jumpy. Up and down turb is ok. It's the side to side where it shows weakness. So, it vfr turb, I just put it on the G force page for reference. It's nice to be able to move it around easily rather than a permanent install. The ram mount that comes with it provides much more options. Currently, mine is clipped in a panel.

That plugged line goes to the pitch indicator or to the on/off valve. I can't remember, but you should be able to find the install manual on here somewhere and it is easy to read. I am pretty sure it goes to the pitch indicator. Also, the entire control box should be installed 2" behind the firewall. The only thing in the tail should be the servos and altitude reference chamber. (The aluminum box at the bottom of the photo... It should actually be on the belly skin.) At the minimum, check your w&b and replace the cracked black hose going to the filter. That install doesn't look legal to me.