Browncbr1

I would be interested to find out if rainX is a fourine compound also.

I'm in the apparel manufacturing business.. We manufacture technical outerwear for some pretty big action sports brands. Most of what we make for them has a DWR flourine coating applied to the textile... I had often wondered how this would lend to spraying on an airframe. .. Here is a link to some basic info on this chemical.. http://www.greenchemistryandcommerce.org/documents/7.DuPont-DWR.pdf Basically, it inhibits water's ability to break surface tension at stick to anything. I guess RainX is just basically rebranded DWR. I do know that textile will hold only 80% of DWR after 20 machine washes, so it is definitely not permanent. But, this stuff should be able to spray on (and let it dry), rather than rubbing in like rainX. It can go on clear probably with a garden weed killer spray bottle that you pump up. My uncle flies in ice fairly often with his C401.. He has hot props, but he had toyed with wax and rainX on props and wings and noticed a helpful difference. I dare not fly near ice in my mooney, but just thought I would chime in with info above.

yea, that's him.. Aaron is great..

The older slicks seem to have a better reliability record. I think he decent ones are from the 90's. If you have good ones, do not send them to Kelley or QAA. They will send you back a completely different mag with different serial numbers. This is where all of my problems started. There is a good mag guy in TX you can search my other posts in this forum where I mention his name and contact. Can't remember right now. He will Iran and return your actual mags. If you have the 4345, then it sounds like you have 20 degree timing setup. Many on this forum, including me, much prefer 25degree timing. Regarding your vacuum pump, I wouldnt mess with it unless you aren't getting steady acceptable suction. They have a high infant mortality rate.

If anyone is interested, I had been talking to the fltplan Guys about why I couldn't seem to connect my iPad using their app to my d2 for ahrs data, etc... They immediately called dynon and dynon sent them a d2 unit to work with on their next version release probably in about a month. Just wanted to give a shout out to these two companies for woeking together to make us CBs happy! Just another reason for me to wait for the d10a and 100 mooney STCs.

Rzr is a very nice new Airport. I've been there a few times. Super nice FBO.

http://www.avweb.com/news/redundant/storing_your_airplane_for_winter_207881-1.html Hoping to keep thread on point and not turn into an oil debate. Saw this and thought it to be relevant to this thread.

Avblend smells like hard core alcohol. Definitely not just mineral oil. Basically, I think the main thing is that it really helps keep containments suspended in the oil so sludge will not develop. It also soaks into metal parts. I've had several A&ps tell me they torn down 3000 hour plus engines that had been running avblend and they literally looked new inside.

I don't touch my prop because I think pulling it through doesn't generate any splash or oil pressure to lubricate anything. If nothing is being lubricated, then it could only mean oil is being removed from key areas, namely the cam lobes... So, I fly at least once per week. I let my dip stick breath after every flight until steam stops. In high humidity times of the year, I use my home made dehumidifier. I don't use CG, but I use Exxon elite (every 20-25 hours) which has additives similar to those found in CG) and I also use avblend to help suspend the filth, thus keeping everything nice and clean. As someone posted above, cams are far more precious than cylinders.

Thank you Andy!

I have the hardwire kit for my Aera510 that has all the color coded data wires. Somwhere, I read that the GPS data output wire is blue and could be connected to the GPS input grey wire on the JPI... I had my avionics shop make the connection, but the JPI still doesn't seem to calculate estimated remaining fuel, etc... and no GPS data is recorded by the JPI.. I assume it is not the blue wire that is the correct output from the garmin... Does anyone know the correct wire color that should be connected to the JPI?

Awesome! Looking forward to your F with top prop solution!

thanks

do you have a source for a resistor or rheostat to get the dimmer working with LEDs?

I still can't figure out why someone would buy a brand new plane to begin with. For less than the cost of a new mooney or cirrus, you could have a nice King Air.. I get that operation cost is higher, but if you're ok with throwing down half a million, then I don't know why it would be an issue..

Mine started getting a little stiff when the weather just got cooler. My A&p said try some LPS2 or a little motor oil and it will work in there overtime. There are also tools to clamp on the cable to pressurize lubricant into the cable housing.

the cowl deck is the stamped aluminum piece that goes in front of the 201 windshield. It basically replaces the instruments access panel when the 201 windshield is installed. I was talking about installing a 201 OEM cowl a while back and this came up. To get an OEM 201 cowl on a 67F, significant sheet metal work is required on the firewall where the 1/4 turn fasteners are. While you're doing that, it would be stupid not to do the 201 windshield in the process, and I was advised to just buy the OEM cowl deck from mooney... Even though I had the 201 Cowl available locally for $500, I didn't do it because of all the costs of making it actually happen. It is SIGNIFICANT labor on the OEM cowl around rear fasteners and also the aluminum firewall area. none of this is obvious until you really dig deep and start accounting for everything before starting the project. To do it right, the cost would end up being $5-7.5k... just ballpark guess on labor based on what I was advised by someone who did all this.. I recall he said he bought the cowl for less than $1k, then had about $5k into the cowl alone before it was ready... not counting all the work done to the plane to enable install. I resolved to thinking that it isn't worth considering unless you could get the OEM cowl given to you free. Just so much work involved and it cannot be undone if you decided to change to another cowl down the road.

I plug in my tanis heater for a few hours or overnight before changing oil. Makes oil flow much quicker.

Some of you may have seen this, but thought I would post here if other have not.. long, but good and informative to help familiarize us with our engines... For those of us who enjoy continuing to learn.. some of it is pretty basic,..

don't forget to rotate your washers and check them with an ohm meter while you're working on your spark plugs!

i use wash&wax blue for top of plane and red for the bottom. lots and lots of paper shop towels tip: wheel wells will stay much much cleaner if you make sure to hit the breaks before retracting gear.

blaahaha.. I'm printing this for my office

glad you found the metal in the filter before owning it!

The oil is on an intake riser. Replace the intake gasket. The gurgling is fuel expanding and bubbling in the lines as it is heating up after shut down because there is no air flow. Hot cowl is normal after shut down in summer. I would be changing oil more often, ~25 hours ... Retorque nuts and bolts since you see the loose one.

booo hissss.. should have looked at F's usually around 1040 useful.... just kidding.. slick looking Bo.. enjoy your new ride!