Browncbr1

I gave up on numbers a long time ago.. but, I can say, where the n/a mooney really shines is on 300-600nm missions with all seats full. My rule of thumb is that if you can drive in 3 hours, then there is no real time difference, hence it would be just for the fun of it. For me, that is usually worth it.. haha This might be different for people who live in high traffic congestion areas..

Now that has to take the cake for bureaucratic handling! Amazing! Did they ask to see it and pull the stub off when you stepped up on your wing walk?

I love how you kept the paint and interior original.. i love seeing mooneys in their original 60's glory.. never get rid of that interior! ... never get rid of that plane!

I think I've decided to just hold this system for a while until I decide for sure what to do. I think the only way this will be worth it for me (based on what I intend to fly in), is for me to install myself with sign off. If someone here wants this system, I would probably let it go for what I have into it..

thanks for all the response. I guess I should add that i don't have a ifr gps or anything fancy.. I just have navcoms, an Aera510, ipad mini, stratux with 987UAT and 1090ES. i originally thought this strike finder would be in good harmony with by adsb in, but based on the unexpected higher cost, I'm wondering if there is another route that might be a higher and better use of a CB's capital. I am just about to take my IR check ride, so i'm still really green and have no desire to fly hard IFR.. I guess it all comes down to if I can find someone who will sign off on owner assist install...yea, it's not a critical and will not be heading stabilized... I figured I could just press clear any time I turn. I had figured that if I could get this in for under 1AMU, then it would be worth it in my mind... 2AMU, not so much..

I recently acquired a serviceable when removed insight strikefinder with the antenna and connectors. The sensor cable would need be purchased new from insight for $235 plus shipping. I took the unit over to a local avionics shop to get it bench tested and tagged, but I found out that only Insight can do that. I also talked with the avionics shop about installation costs and he also said that nearly no one installs them anymore because of other newer things available. I'm starting to vacillate on installing this, as the cost seems to be much more than I had originally thought, and I don't even know where it could fit on my panel without moving my Dynon D2 off of the panel. Does anyone have any advice for me? I called insight and they said they could bench test the unit and antenna and tag it for a flat $400... suddenly, what I thought would be a fairly cheap addition to my panel would end up being around $2500, if I assist in the install. Am I better off trying to resell this and going in a different direction?

You have a better chance of getting a shade hangar come spring when the additions are supposed to be complete at DKX. I have been on the list for 2 years at DKX and still 8th on shade hangar list. 43rd on community hangar list. TYS has a shorter list.. I'm at a shade hangar there now. I was in the DKX FBO yesterday and saw a Flyer on the cork board for a C. I do t know if you have seen it or if it is even online. I recall the price was asking $39 and the engine was around 4-500 hrs. I didn't look too closely. It had a shotgun panel though.

Hi Wayne, good luck in your move to Knoxville. You had better get on a hangar list first. there is a long list going. I too liked the J's, but found that for my mission, the F is a better way to go. The extra back seat room is not the only difference from a C. You get more gross weight, fuel injection, and some say better pitch stability than short bodies. They seem to go for just a little more than a C or E, but much less than a J and you can find them with Johnson bar. Many have been modded with J cowls and windshields.

+1

Hi Aaron, As you know, the Tanis costs a few hundred more, but I've been very happy with it, even far north in MN. http://www.tanisaircraft.com/piston-preheat/tsp4cyl-2925-115.html If you fly once a week or so, you can just leave it plugged in continuously so it's always ready and you don't have to bother with anything. Some would debate that.. I usually call the FBO and they will plug it in for me if I haven't left it plugged in. I am not sure about the forced air systems and how well they work when it's windy. I know the placement in the cowl is pretty critical, so there is that concern as well. I think the guys on the line would be a little hesitant to set one of those up if left unattended. One of those would probably grow feet and walk off if left unattended as well. Apparently, we had a little problem with that kind of stuff going on lately. With the Tanis, there is nothing to steal and the elements transfer heat directly to the sump and cylinders rather than via air. Timely post, as I used mine for the first time this year, earlier this morning. I would recommend getting cylinder heater elements also if you do the oil sump, as some have said the warm oil could emit moisture to condense on cylinders and cam... I don't know if that is a problem if you are only using immediately prior to a flight though.. BTW, the guy who stole your wheel chalks got busted by the ramp police. craig

they are also foolish business people for letting their emotions run wild to ruin their careers by alienating customers.

jpi 830 will work without any panel mod... you get FF and will integrate with GPS to calculate reserve at destination, MPG, etc... It would fit nicely in the hole where your 700 is with the screen horizontal... very nice plane! enjoy!

Thanks for all the warnings guys.. I appreciate everyone looking out for each other's safety. I pulled the cowl off yesterday and found some wetness around the oil pressure relief valve... I just gave it a little half-grunt torque. All push rod housings are dry.. One way or another, I will need to clean all the oil off the engine before making any kind of determination as to where it is coming from. I think it's just a little coming from a number of places.. Piloto, I think you are correct about LL film. I also used MEK when I addressed my previous case leak. I just prefer to use 100LL to get most of the oil off sense MEK eats plastic and rubber.

Flame thrower indeed if one were to spray on a hot engine or hot electrical circuits! Anyhow, all the ferries around here do this and it cleans things up pretty well. . This isn't a recommendation to anyone though.

flew today from TYS to BNA and back... IMC until west of HCH, but even west of there was poor. haze top was around 6000.. TYS metars had been 6 and 5 miles vis, but when we arrived, it was more like 3 vis at localizer minimums... between 4000 and 6000, it was 0-0. valley is better than north or south though.. for sure...

I don't know where else the oil could be coming from. I'm going to have another look this afternoon though. Engine has a little over 500 smoh. I can see clearly that the mag is secured and not leaking. If anything is leaking there, it is the gasket between the flange and case. The only other thing I can think of leaking that high up is the oil bypass valve. Thank you for the warning clearance. I ordered an air hose degreaser gun to spray 100LL and get everything good and dry to have a better chance and finding the leak(s). I'll report back

Already gave it a good tug. And I supervised the previous install using new washers. It seems like there is a flange that sits between the mag and the case with a gasket in between the flange and the case. I'm wondering if that is the culprit. It drips on the #3 intake riser flange and bolt. That's rather high up for it to be coming from the prop gov.

I'm glad this conversation came up because I'm going to need to figure out why I keep getting oil on the inside of my right cheek and on my exhaust pipe. I think it might be from my right mag case seal though.

I have 5amp klixton CBs like the one in the link if needed. (10 of them). I don't have any 2amp CBs though. Pm me if needed.

You used loctite 271 on the stud also?

I found a bottle of rainX in my garage. It says that it repels snow, sleet, and ice in addition to rain. It even claims to keep bugs off. It also says not to apply to painted surfaces. Probably just a disclaimer if discoloration happens. I'll probably put this on my prop and see if it makes any difference with bugs and paint.

fltplango already put out an update today solving this. From their email blast.. You can now transfer your flight plans both to and from FltPlan Go and Dynon Skyview avionics and receive ADS-B weather and traffic data. We have also added support for Dynon D2 so users can stream AHRS data to the FltPlan Go app for improved attitude awareness.FltPlan Go also connects to Dynon L3 NGT-9000, Avidyne IFD540 and Freeflight Rangr avionics systems to stream ADS-B data, including NexRad, textual weather, and traffic.

Nice find, that may work better.. indeed the application is different. My case bolts do not thread into the case.

The purple loctite I mentioned earlier (515) is specifically formulated as flange sealant for these kinds of applications up to 300 degrees. It does not lock threads as the brand name suggests. I definitely would discourage use of red locktite 271.

Guys, please consider trying gooping the studs and holes with purple Loctite 515 after cleaning surfaces with acetone or 100LL.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004H358O4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I could not find this locally at any autoparts or hardware stores... So, I bought from the link above. This successfully stopped the leaks I had at case bolts about 100 hours ago.