Browncbr1

Flew for a while yesterday at slightly higher power settings as suggested. About 24/23.5 (due to top prop restriction) ROP ~ 10gph.. CHT never went over 335 on hottest.. Although I shouldn't be, I was actually kind of surprised how much faster it is.. I was down low at 3000' and making 150-155knts with full fuel and 2 aboard with bags. Thanks for encouraging me to run my mooney how it was designed to run..

yes, 66' F OEM cowl/ filter/exhaust..

warm air holds more moisture than cold air... the problem with oil pan only heaters is that it warms the oil and the air while the cylinders are relatively cold. The cylinders only need to be dew point of the warm air inside the engine. If you have cylinder probe heat elements to go with the oil pan heater, then I wouldn't worry about leaving it plugged in continuously if you are flying every week.. If oil pan only heater, I would not leave it on continuously... IMHO

What altitude is your home base? I get about 29" here at about 1000msl, ram air closed

It is my understanding that zinc chromate is a rust inhibitor only. Not a rust converter. If you spray it over rust, it just encapsulates corrosion that will continue to be active. Eastwood and permatex both make rust converters in various forms. For hard to access areas like yours, I would use the Eastwood aerosol version. But, it is worth the effort to get in with a small Dremel sanding ball and get as much as possible first. Any rust will turn completely black, which is what they claim confirms the rust is now dormant. Then, spray over it with zinc or paint. If this isn't done before zinc or paint, it will eventually bubble and flake down the road. Heres a link to the Eastwood stuff http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-converter.html?SRCCODE=TXT00010&adpos=1t1&creative=164110199694&device=m&matchtype=e&network=g&gclid=CNn-opPihtECFdgGgQod4OQKYg

After checking my jpi data, there was only a single data point that shows 47psi.. maybe it went lower than that or maybe the alarm is set for 50psi.. see attached rpm drop and oil pressure drop then come right back up. I didn't touch anything ... EGTs went down with RPM, so it seems unrelated to ignition. FF was stable as well.. hmmm... all other data looks normal flew again today with no issue. I ordered new gaskets for the oil pressure relief valve and suction screen so I can remove and clean out..

i was trolling the homedepot website to see if there are other versions and found that there is a 2000kw sportsman that has dual fuel setup for propane... i haven't been able to find a propane kit for this small one, but it seems that whoever makes this brand might have a kit available since it's on the other models

I supposed 51gph doesn't seem to hurt so bad when you're doing 310kts. enjoy the performance! awesome that you built it yourself!

ill double check. As far as I recall it is hooked up according to JPI install manual . I'll grab a photo

Too bad they didn't donate them to a few aviation trade school.

I've been watching this thread and might grab that 19lb generator. My tanis pulls 250watts total and I have a little 300watt ceramic heater for the cabin. Looks like a Nice little package for cheap... Maybe Santa will read this!

I was reading the JPI and it's difficult to say if it matches the garwin gauge exactly but I didn't see any fever able difference between the two. To be honest, I didn't cross check by the time the alert went away. I had the vernatherm replaced about 18months ago as I was trying to trying to keep oil temp down in the hot summer... Generally, that helped oil temps since then.

It wasn't gusty at all. This felt like leaning to the point of starting to lose power. But what got my attention is the oil pressure alert in the JPI, which I have never seen before. Not even at completely closed idle with hotter oil. I'm going to pull the data because I saw on past flights OP could be in the 40's when landing but I never saw the alert before. Weird

I flew over to a nearby airport early this morning. I had preheat on all night and startup and flying over was normal. I started it back up to return and temps were normal, pressure normal.. I was taxing to the run up area and i noticed rpm dropped by 50 or 100,... at first i thought maybe I was lead fouling a plug or something, then my jpi blinked red oil pressure warning caught my eye.. it was reading low 50's at about 1000rpm... after a few seconds it went away and rpm came back up with OP normal.. oil temp was about 145F. OAT 21F.. Did my run up paying close attention to OP... normal.. ... I determined that perhaps a chunk of carbon or whatever had momentarily inhibited the pressure relief valve ball from seating all the way and whatever it was had since blown through and been collected in the oil filter... so I elected to take off while keeping a close eye on OP... at 2700rpm, OP was 90.. normal.. as I climbed up over 1000AGL and reduced MP and rpm, OP reduced normally to low 80's by the time I settled on 2400/21" to cool it slowly before landing 10 miles away.. landed and taxied with about 60 OP... everything normal and making great power.. I have not removed the oil pressure relief valve for inspection yet, but I have read in the past that this sort of thing can be a symptom of not running these engines hard enough..chunks of carbon floating around in the oil.. . In another thread, I had talked a little bit about internal lead buildup and had discovered I really should be running mine a little harder, at least from time to time. Most of my recent flying has been low power shooting approaches, etc.. ... Has anyone else had similar experience? Was I negligent in electing to take off? Was I naive to come to the conclusion that I did before taking off? Just trying to get other's ideas for future reference in safe operation.

harbor freight has a light and quiet 2kw for $500.. http://www.harborfreight.com/engines-generators/gas-engine-generators/2000-peak1600-running-watts-28-hp-797cc-portable-inverter-generator-carb-62523.html

+1 on sloppy baffles.. too much material there.. +1 on the less than safe location of the FF transducer.. Looking at your JPI, and that rear two are new cylinders, it doesn't seem too bad to me.... my #3 is hottest, while my #1 is coldest... ... but, definitely need to clean up that baffling.. IMHO

Yea, if you have good auction and the DG goes off a bunch during straight and level, I would send it in. I set by DG maybe once every 20 minutes when in cruise. And the adjustment is less than 5 degrees. When I am going missed and turning to an option heading, I got in the habit of looking at GPS track until I complete the turn, then reset DG. That usually gets me pretty close. You could also do a timed turn

The vacuum gauge switch looks to be hooked up directly to your DG behind the blue vac line fitting in that photo. So, if your gauge or lights are normal, then the DG is getting normal vacuum.

Just got an email from dynon there is a $100 rebate on D2 pocket panels until 12/31/16

Not mine. Don't know him either. Just took a photo of the flier I saw on the cork board because I remembered someone was on here looking for a c in the $30's.

I nearly forgot how ugly the tail is on the 71... Then I saw this thread and started shaking my head. What a bunch of clowns the marketing guys must have been that year.

At some point, was there an SB or something that changed the static port lines to go to the top of the tail cone before going to the T? mine doesn't have a drain valve and the T is on the roof of the tail. water would have to pressurize and travel up the static lines about 18" before arriving to the T.. ???

Simply, you need to not care about $10-15k per year if you want to fly without thinking about it. That's if you get a good plane that had been wel cared for and doesn't have corrosion and just in a shade hangar. Peace be with you.

When does in error? If you are doing approaches and going around in the pattern a lot, then that is normal. Accelerating and climbing after a stabilized approach usually gives me 20 degrees or so error Ina matter if just a few seconds after missing. Especially if your turning while climbing back out. If it holds pretty good in level flight at stable speed, then it should be fine. If if there are wires going to that fitting, then it is a suction switch that will turn your vac light on.

I just bought this one and it is very impressive. Much better than I expected. I recently posted some videos from it. I use a small laptop and let it sit on my cowl while I work the cord into the cylinder. Use safety wire to fold it back on itself. The wire is pretty easy to work with. Go for it. Best money you can spend.