231MJ

John, I have tried to do it without taking the spinner off but 75% of the time it did not work well. Now I just take the 10 minutes of time to take the spinner off. Peter's approach is close to mine - I have a large box and a big piece of foam I put under the cowl and then lower it down - kinda hinging it from the back. The reverse works well to get it back on. Patience seems to be the trick for me. I can do the whole cowl in a little about 30 minutes now.

Really frustrating and the Mooney certification estimate keeps getting pushed to the right. I love my HDX but sans autopilot makes only half a system...

MS is great! You guys have provided some good ideas. In my situation, Coy Jacobs took the rotating beacon off about 20 years ago to gain 0.3 kts of speed and I don't want to put it back on at this point. The turn coordinator did help remind me about the master switch, especially when the bearings were going bad, but it's gone now with the new glass panel. Leaving the strobes on is a great idea, I'm gonna try it.

I did a simple on-field relocation last week and left the master switch on for a few hours. I was in a hurry. This resulted in the battery being too weak to start. Embarrassing and a pain in the butt. Have any of you installed a device to remind you that the master is on? Buzzer based master being on and no oil pressure? LED in prominent location when the master is on? I realize getting field approval might be difficult (impossible) but I'm interested to know if there is a solution - other than religious use of the shut-down check list. August

I had the same issue and a rebuilt starter made a big issue. Mine was about 15 years old. New battery and cleaning all the cable connections did not help. Rebuilt starter is not terribly expensive.

Thanks, 231BN, there are several fuse holders on the copilot side, I'll start there. The schematic is also great but takes young eyes and patience to trace, but I'll try. Back to the hangar this weekend. I'll keep you-all posted as to what I find. August

Hobbs meter not working. Airplane = M20K 25-0308. Would appreciate advice on trouble shooting. Specific questions: 1. What drives the meter - oil pressure switch? 2. If I put 12V to the meter, should it run? 3. Is there a fuse or CB in the circuit? 4. What am I not asking that I should be asking? Thanks

The servos were not installed but all the wiring was installed while the interior was out and the wing panels were open. Should make the final install more efficient.

The Dynon website now shows Mooney certification in the first half of 2021 and the progress bar has not moved much, if any. I'm enjoying the heck out of HDX but not having an autopilot is a real bummer. This is really disappointing news. Picture of the panel in the climb out of HWD...notice the blanking plate where the AP head should go...UHHHH.

SOLD to Mr. Ross Taylor. I had an E before the K and loved the heck out of it. Flew it everywhere!

I know...no one needs a standby vacuum pump anymore...so, anyone want this for just the shipping cost? That's $20. I'm hoping this goes to someone that can actually use it, otherwise it's going to sit in the hangar for the next 10 years, which is a waste.

Pump removed as part of Dynon conversion. In 10 years I used it once (other than periodic testing) - not in IMC but it was nice to throw the switch and the gyros came alive again. $100.00 plus $20.00 shipping.

A while back a bought a set of boots from LASAR - they probably still have them.

Thanks, Larry. Yours look a lot better than my beat-up panels and not putting those little strips back in make sense - really can't see much of em anyway. Did you buy yours in black or paint them?

Sold. Use in good health and clear skies.

Thanks, Anthony. This is a picture of the copilot side panel covered in blue leather. The seats are gray leather and I thought the blue leather would be a nice accent and it matches the exterior blue accent stripe. My work is not perfect, but the imperfections will be covered up by the time it's installed. The leather was kinda inexpensive, about $300 for a full hide and one hide did both side panels and the panel under the rear seat. I also had three pockets made - they will attach with snap fasteners. Aerocomfort did the seats and covered the plastic panels - what a fantastic job. Hector is an artist. But this interior stuff is a lot of work...

Removed for glass upgrade. United Instruments part #8125, don't know the Mooney part #. I think the speed lines are fairly clear in the pictures. $100 and I pay shipping. Money back guarantee.

The Niagra Air Parts guys know the T drives very well. They have worked on mine and strongly recommended NOT going with a light weight starter. Interestingly they also recommended using a "less slippery" oil, I was using Aeroshell at the time. A year a go my starter was cranking slow so I installed a rebuilt starter and it was a great improvement.

I used the same side panels but covered in an accent leather rather than carpet. I should have just made new panels that go to the floor and covered it all in leather. I think SEM paint is in my future unless I can dream up something else. Anthony, please send me a picture of your interior when it's done and I'll do the same. I also have a 262 and enjoy the heck out of it.

Anyone do anything interesting with these side kick panels? Cover in a vinyl wrap? Reproduce in carbon fiber? Replace with something else? I have a new interior and hate to put this back in.

Art, It is a better view without the compass in the way, for sure. From the view I see the hurricane has passed . Do you know why the compass was surface mounted rather than flush mounted? Not enough room in the back? I like the panel!

Has anyone converted to a panel mounted compass? Good or not good conversion?

The rails from Mooney are really expensive - I remember getting a quote 10 years ago and it was crazy expensive, like $800/pair so a few more holes went into the old rails. The 231 has an advantage on the right side because there is a support underneath that holds the stack. Not sure if these are any cheaper for if they work for the Mooney. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/radiorax.php?clickkey=3294974

There's 3/4" foam insulation that goes over the skin and therefore over those two squares - that's what those glue marks are. That would provide electrical insulation but I could see where it's not foolproof. The sonoalert has rubber boots over the connectors and the speaker is in a plastic housing. The lights are in a separate housing in the headliner. I'm not saying you're wrong but it just looks unusual to me. Perhaps a Mooney mystery, if only Bill Wheat was still with us...

There are 4 squares stuck to the inside of the cockpit - what are they for?