231MJ

I'm one of the fortunate few to own a 262 and it's been a great traveling airplane. The basic benefit is going high and fast with long legs and low fuel consumption. The 231 has similar features but in a 231 you tend to fly the engine and in a 252/262 you fly the airplane. In IFR, this makes a big difference. I have been out of the airplane market for a long time and don't know the price difference between a 231 and a 262 but I think a reasonable premium for the 262 is well worth it. If you can afford a 252 by all means get it - it's a better airplane! I think most 262s came with dual alternators, back-up vacuum system, big O2 tank, and long-range fuel tanks so safety/reliability and range were key considerations when Coy developed the 262. Because the 262 is a 231 skeleton, the plane looks it's age and it takes $$$$ to improve on the basic 231 airframe (it will never have the inner gear doors of a 252). I would much rather have a 252 but I have other needs for my disposable income so I'm going to stick with my 262 and it probably is my "for ever" plane. This summer it's getting an avionics make-over and then a new interior some time in the future. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

Can someone share the details of the blade antenna that matches to the ARTEX 345 ELT. Like some of you, I thought this was a simple replacement using the same antenna that was already installed (naive!). Need antenna manufacturer and model number. Thanks

The Garmin 345 is about $2,300 more (with GPS receiver). The 345 does offer a lot more features but not sure it's worth the extra money, plus the install is more involved. The $400 Garmin rebate on the 335/GDL52R combo is good until the end of the year - need to keep researching.

Does anyone have experience using the ForeFlight Sentry box for in-flight weather (and related data) and traffic (ADS-B-in)? I'm getting the Garmin GTX 335 transponder and wondering if I should add the the Garmin GDL 52R to the package (Garmin is offering a rebate on the GTX 335 and GDL 52 of $400 if purchased as a package). I'm wondering if the data from the Sentry box is as good as from the GDL 52.

Greg, does the GDL-82 qualify for the $500 rebate from the FAA?

I have the MB engine and agree that it can be removed out the top. Careful with ignition leads and the wires to the mags but it can be done. I have dual alternators and the back-up had to be removed. It's easier if the left mag is removed but it can be done without removing it. Two of the three nuts holding the alternator are a bear to get at - taking off is much easier than getting on. Have fun and be patient.

I talked to TruTrak today for an up-date on the Mooney STC. It seems the date is slipping to about the end of the year. Not too bad as long as it does not slip further, I'm tired of flying without an AP. Their sales are brisk, which is a good sign. Very friendly people - and they actually answer the phone - how refreshing is that!

I got the following email from Dan in parts. It sounds like all is ok at the airport. Lake County has seen three major fires over the last 5 (or so) years - lots of loss, terrible. "it has been one hell of a ride. Still not over on the north end of the lake. The west side we are on is basically burnt up just outside the city limits. Firecrews saved almost all the houses. Today is the first day we are allowed back at the airport. Hope to be back up and running on Monday. No damage here at the airport."

Thanks Don, encouraging. I might not screw this up. I suspect getting the old adhesive out is 80% of the job. JLW314, you have to admit that "over squeeze" was a good description of the potential problem. Thanks for the funny u-tube. That led to Jerry Seinfeld and Obama in a funny episode of comedians and cars getting coffee. Really good. August

231SM, Have you started the windscreen replacement? I'm interested in riveting needed to put all the metal back in place. All the same size rivets? Can you over-squeeze and cause dimpling? Also, how did you remove the old adhesive? Got any pictures? Thanks

You might try Spruce. I just changed brushes on my alternator but I have a Continental gear driven alternator so I'm sure yours are different. The alternator shops will probably have them also.

As usual, Paul is right. The throw on the less expensive one is too long (there seems to be a baffle in the bottom of the sump) so it won't open. You'll see the wrong one on ebay soon ;-)) I wish someone sold the tapered o-ring that forms the seal - that's all I need to stop it from weeping.

I need a new autopilot - my Century II is not holding heading on a consistent basis and I'd rather put the $$ into a new system than troubleshoot the old (and I mean old!). I'm sure others of you are others in the same boat. Is anyone considering the Trio? Has anyone offered their plane for the Trio test program? I'm not sure which of the current non-certified systems will be certified for the Mooney first (Garmin, Trio, Dynon). What are others doing in this situation? August 231MJ

Thank you, Paul. Your insight is always helpful. One of these days I want to talk to you about flying to Mexico. It's on my bucket list. August

I started a previous discussion about trouble I was having with hot starts. I got good advice and have had less trouble recently. In that thread it was suggested that using the high boost pump to fill the fuel lines will not flood the engine because the fuel is recirculated back to the fuel tank...but that's not how my set-up works. Here's what I'm seeing: With the fuel lines empty (hot start conditions) and at idle-cutoff, it takes about 15 seconds to fill the lines with high boost After 15 seconds of high boost and still at idle-cutoff, fuel begins to run out the drain lines (its a healthy stream) Adjusting the idle-cutoff in by about 1/4 to 1/2" does not stop the fuel from running out the drain My engine is the MB version. The fuel pump has been rebuilt twice under my ownership (17 years) So what's going on here? I'm trying to understand how the system is working so I don't start messing up the hot-starts. Thanks

I found the repair kit on the Aviall site. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. August

Thanks, Andy. I have searched the internet for the Bendix repair parts and just can't find a vendor. Do you know someone that sells the Bendix switch repair parts? Thanks

Has anyone used an ACS ignition switch to replace the Bendix switch? The price difference is significant (ACS = $140 and Bendix = $460 at Spruce). Side note: I did not make Oshkosh this year - hope everyone had a great time. The new avionics are really exciting.

I'm also due for a new windscreen in my K. With modern ANR headsets, is it worth going 1/4"? Anyone know what the labor time/costs are?

I'm looking for an Apollo GX50 in working condition. Don't need the tray or antenna - just the box. Thanks for helping. August cell: 650-465-0688

The hot start procedures kortopates spelled out above keep working for me. The initial firing is a little rough (like only 2-3 cylinders are firing) but hitting the primer and a little more throttle gets it all running smoothly. Thanks again to all for the suggestions - this has been a big problem for me in the past and now problem solved!

PIREP Went for a flight today, visited a few airports where I did stop-n-gos to get everything hot. Then I went to a third airport for fuel (paid $3.99/gal which is good for us in Cal.), filled to 108 gallons for an up-coming trip. Went to the toilet and thought about the hot start. I decided to use jlunseth's recommendations as follows: MP - closed Mixture - idle cut-off Prop - high High bost pump - 15 seconds MP - full Mixture - rich Primer - 4 seconds MP - 1/2 Starter engaged 3-4 blades and the engine fired a few times but did not start. Kept the starter engaged but firing had stopped. A little hit of the primer did nothing. Crap. It fired, which is more than it did using my old technique so something must have been right, but it did not start. I decided to go back to the the beginning but this time longer high boost time pump (I was counting 1-1,000; 2-1,000; etc. but I was counting fast before so may not have gone the full 15 seconds) and longer primer, all the rest was the same. And it started! What a relief! Thanks everyone for explaining the proper procedure. Really helpful. Yes, carusoam, now I get it!

Thanks, everyone. I have not followed the procedures laid out by jlunseth but I'm going to try it this weekend. Mike, your flood the engine and then start just frightens me a little too much although it makes some sense. M20Doc - really good points and I just installed a rebuilt starter and new Concorde battery and that's one reason I'm feeling bold enough to try something new. Part of my issue has been I have a 12V system (the MB engine was a 262 mod performed by previous owner) and running down the battery has always been a big concern. My previous battery was a Gill and it just seemed too weak to mess with. The Concorde RG-35AXC I instlled has 440 CCA, which I believe is much more than the acid filled Gill (but I can't find the CCA for the acid battery on the Gill website). Thanks, again. PIREP on the way!

Need help with best procedure to hot start my K. The engine model is a TSIO-360MB (not sure the actual model makes a difference). The advice I have gotten in the past is "give it lots of fuel", "use the boost pump to get the injector lines filled", "push the throttle in as the prop rotates", "keep putting the fuel to it". This has not worked for me and I end up running the risk of draining the battery so most times I plan on a 2-3 hour cool down and then use normal start procedures. Problem is I don't always have 2-3 hours to let the engine cool. My engine starts easy when cool. 3-4 seconds of primer, 1/4" of throttle and it usually starts after 2-3 blade go by. I do need to add a little primer a few times after engine start until the engine runs smoothly. So what's the sure-fire hot start procedure? Thanks

Just finished a long(er) annual and wanted to report what we found regarding the fluctuating manifold pressure. First - thanks for all the input - this community is really great and much appreciated. In addition to the ideas from you guys, I found this article from RAM very helpful (http://www.ramaircraft.com/Customer-Service/Troubleshooting.htm). I first went to the wastegate, which moved very easily but I doused it with mousemilk anyway. Then I used air pressure to test the waste gate actuator (a cylinder pressure gauge worked nicely for this). The wastegate started to close at 15 psi and was fully closed by 38 psi. It operated very smoothly with changes in air pressure. The problem was elsewhere. We (the IA and me) then did a careful inspection of the induction system and we found the potential source of the leak - a clamp on one of the hoses from the intercooler to the induction manifold was slightly askew, and I mean slightly, but apparently enough to allow a leak. I was skeptical that this was the actual source of the problem but I have flow three times now and no more manifold pressure fluctuation in the climb our at cruise. I have only gone to 9,000 feet so I'm not entirely sure the problem is resolved but the initial results are positive. Lesson here - check the easy stuff first (although testing the wastegate actuator was fairly easy). If the conventional wisdom says the most common issue is a leaking induction system - check that thoroughly (like everyone advised). Don't assume it's the most expensive/complex component, like the pressure controller.