ArtVandelay

Say you start the engine to taxi to the fuel pump, engine runs for less a minute. After refueling (5+ minutes), on restart do you use cold start method or hot start method or something else?

As mentioned the SAF spring is stiff, making it difficult to push the drain up given the low wing with an outreach arm. I use a gats jar, so have no problem putting strained fuel back into the tank. Your dumping +24 oz of leaded fuel? I prefer not to give environmentalists any more reasons to trying to close down airports.

Check out this: https://mooneyspace.com/topic/44448-florida-mooney-lunch-group/

Don’t know, small piece about the size of a grain of sand. Could be anything, tree debris, insect, who knows.

I tried many times with no luck, after removing it I was able to clean some sticky debris using a toothpick.

What’s the life expectancy of pucks? Both installed and if stored?

I imagine the 650 is better than the 750 in turbulence unless you have larger hands.

So, my AP replaced a fuel drain on my J about a year ago, it started leaking again. It was from the valve itself, it wasn’t closing properly. Fortunately I had one in my spare parts bag, and was able to replace it and it seems to have fixed the leak, I will need to fill the tank to be sure. I didn’t want to over tighten it. A couple of observations: 1. It’s unlike a bolt, the fit is snug and I can’t unscrew it by hand, I thought this was odd. Same on reinstall. 2. The manufacturer my AP used is SAF-AIR, which supposedly can be rebuilt, as oppose to the old MDI versions. The problem is the SAF version has a spring that takes considerable effort to open with my sample cup, so much so that I thought it might break the plastic cup. I have to think maybe this is also why it failed so quickly. 3. My spare was a MDI version, much less effort to open the valve. 4. Seems SAF are everywhere, after my experience I like to avoid that brand. Anyone else with SAF versions have the same issues?

I assume you have an ammeter, does that show any jumps in the current when PTT is pressed?

If my pilot side jacks failed, I’d just use the copilot’s side, it would a little cumbersome to reach over to put PTT, but definitely doable.

I charge my iPad and iPhone to 100% every day, I can’t be bothered to monitor the charging cycle. This is automatically true for my G5 backup battery and panel mounted Aera 660 that are always charged. I’ll just have to change them out (all above are 2-6 years old, so seems better than posted articles).

Betting you had WX10 (10 lbs), kns 80(6 lbs), vacuum system with backup (20 lbs), etc….just like rbp I lost 70 lbs with panel upgrades.

You can adjust the screen layout, move the engine gauges right side and go split screen (PFD left, MFD right ) will get the AI centered, or pretty close.

The servos are just daisy chain connected to a CAN bus, assuming they can share power and servos there would not need any additional wiring, should be easy as they’re all installed in tail on the same mounting bracket IIRC.

JPI handles voltage annunciations, the rest are probably simple lights, no circuitry to do comparisons like fuel and voltage annunciations.

Then probably a limit switch has gone bad, you can try electronic cleaner on it. This is likely because when switches are not exercised for a while, then they tend to get corroded, so not something the shop did. Mechanical devices like to used but not abused.

Is speed brake problem for both sides or just 1? I had problems with my AHRS and they replaced it, then had problems because it was not configured properly, you will see errors in the logs stored on the SD card. How do you know which RPM reading is correct? Hold menu key on power up gets you into the configuration menus, you can fix a few of your problems yourself if you want.

I would not center the TKS over the yoke as it makes it awkward to interact with, think how you will both fly the plane, manipulating the yoke and at the same time reaching over it to work the panel buttons and switches. I would leave the G3X up high as possible. Only things you rarely interact with should be on the left/centered above the yoke, or on far right radio stack. Remember you may not be able to remove your left hand from the yoke. If you must put annunciator below the G3X. Most of the annunciations are probably handled by EIS (fuel related, voltage) or no longer applicable (vacuum). Id figure out with the screen in split screen mode, where the PFD will be centered and center it on the yoke. I can’t imagine you’ll use full screen mode very often. Edit: I’d also install a panel mount compass and remove the factory hanging compass.

As a crossover from another thread, this might be a job for MMO.

Yes, I disconnect the left cowl flap, attach a hose, drain the oil. Then remove the oil filter from the top, I made a plastic drain to catch the oil. I still managed to spill sometimes, like losing a grip on the filter.

Install a quick drain and you don’t need to remove the lower cowl.

I have a rule, avoid “must watch” videos.

No, they are sealed using gaskets, not sealer.

Why attach the the carpet at all? If properly fitted, it shouldn’t moved much unless you drag your feet getting in and out.

I use MMO (10%) for my pre oil change flight, it has the viscosity of water so thins the oil. I only use it for a short flight and then it’s replaced with fresh oil.