Yetti

In the first 6 months of plane ownership here is a list of things that I have and will have to tackle. It is kept in excel with a date and tach hour when complete. When I think/see things that need to be done, it goes on the bottom of the list. Graphite door locks and starter switch Door siles clean and lube - Cabin Luggage Replace O-Ring L& R fuel 338 and 010 Florou Sili Contact clean starter bendix and silicone spray Paint Tow Bar Replace Front tire Install tie down jack points Replace main tires Polish Spinner Remove CoPilot Seat replace seat belt/rotate rollers Remove Pilot seat replace seat belt/rotate rollers Placard Tach Install Left and Right Shoulder harness per AmSafe Kit Reinstall updated interior panels Remove carpet Replace brake resivoir line with 1/4 and fill. Replace #2 valve cover gasket Replace #1 and #4 valve cover gasket Replaced TE Oil Pressure Line 124J001-4CR0190 Replaced TE Fuel Pressure 124J001-3C0454 Replaced fuel to Eng Pump 124J001-6CR0184 Replaced Oil Cooler Line 124J002-8VR0500 Replaced Oil Cooler Line 124J002-8VR0530 Replaced Injector WCF 124J001-6CR0254 Replaced Injector to Fuel Dist 124J001-4CR0172 Replaced Fuel Pump Drain 1/2193000-4D0180 Repaired Manual Gear indicator Repaired CHT ring terminal sensor cable R&R 1 and 3 cylinders exhaust valve Ream 2 & 4 Exhaust valve Rebuild Left and Right mag install and time Replace Cabin Fresh air cat tubing Replace 1,2,3,4 oil drain rubber tubing Clean Gas Selector screen replace gasket Clean gas injector screen replace O rings R&R propeller Replace alternator belt Clean and replace spark plugs Replace Alternator Belt Overhaul and replace Propeller Repair cowl oil door latch Replace Airfliter with Bracket 6310 Install Wheelen LED light Remove carbon on comms relay fuel lines at wing root Replace ram air switch Replace fuel spider gasket Replace L&R brake lines, bleed brakes Rebuild wheel calipers Replace right fuel sump Swap Radios for VOR Install Intercom Install rear intrcom jacks Replace P Leads on mags New engine mounts

Thanks to the marvel of high definition cameras, it looks like you should take a file to it and chamfer those edges. Maybe it is bevel, I forget.

Its just like the checklists that you use to fly the plane. Get the 100 hour/annual. it's online and print out a copy. Create a three ring binder. The 100 hour inspection is divided into sections use that to create a multi year plan to go through each and every system on the plane. How old are the hoses? when was the last time the mags were overhauled? Buy a couple of spare plugs. When was the last time the gear was checked? Buy the tire prior to the three days, get the leakguard tubes. Look up the axle/wheel bolt torque. You create a plane for each and every major thing you are going to Repair and replace. .Create a jacking plan for the plane. buy oil and filter prior. Buy all the supplies prior to complement the mechanic supplies. My goal was to be able to respond to every "do you have?" Also you can clean the engine compartment so that your mechanic and you do not come out dirty working under the hood/bonnet. Stainless fastener kit? Extra screw clips? Good impact battery screw driver to remove speed handle to reinstall. The fuel sender could take a day or three days to trouble shoot, so it should be done as a separate project Who is going to buy all the o rings and gaskets. safety wire and pliers When you are working, Check each other then recheck each others work. Before buttoning up, spend time with flashlights looking for tools and loose things switch sides and check again.

Just because it is flying and in annual, does not necessary mean it is airworthy or that it won't need something big. There is a level of precision that sometimes gets lost in 40 years of maintenance. I was not interested in buying, but rental or partnership was not available. For me the plan was buy a plane expecting to go through every system. I would suggest any plane you buy that is 40/50 years old have about $10K in reserve ready to go. Then create a plan to work through each system. Hoses $1,100, Rebuild the 2axis autopilot $2200, Prop rebuild $3200, Mag rebuild 1000, fuel servo 1500. For me I like to work on things and I found a great person with an A&P that is also a craftsman. The positive there is one person could do the work, the second could check the others, Then we could recheck everything together. Being knowledgeable about mechanical things and being able to read a maintenance manual/service manual/parts manual and source parts are all good skills to have. The process took about 4 months. The good news is that there is a trust that can be put into the thing that takes me into the air. There are still things to do, but they will be taken care of in time.

too much. Needs hoses, needs prop overhaul, need bunch of paint work. Working PC? I say 7 to 10 to fix it up

Ah you are at that point. With every problem/resolution series there has to be the only change one thing at a time. Otherwise too many things get changed and you don't know what to troubleshoot. Resoldering the P Leads with new wire(they needed to be done) is fully within my capabilities, but we had fixed so many things up to that point, that they needed to be done later as they were known to be working when last touched. Besides what fun is "the list" without things that need to be done.

I get what you are saying. Which is why I am saying it is not worth the electrons to discuss. Best advice ever given to me while working at Enron. Just tell the lawyers to quite playing lawyer games trying to out lawyer each other and their job is to find workable language that is acceptable to both parties.

My wife got one of these http://www.silhouetteamerica.com/ it cuts out from vinyl sheets. Once we get it going, There should be some fun graphics on the plane such as "Rescue" And "Danger Jet Blast"

Google says "fly it forward" is probably already gone to the public domain. Sky diving team, Jet Blue etc etc. The mooney specific use is not that much out there either, I would just come up with another one and be done with it. #forwardflying #girlsfly #mooneygirlsfly #flyitmooney #mooneyitforward #flyforward #girlsflymooney No lawyers needed that way.

Not an attorney but I have had to back down people when they took pictures from one of my website and used them. Using something on the internet gives you copyright. I could look up the law, but I am too lazy. Whoever used it on the internet first can claim copyright and send the others letters and such.

For $4000 it better get you supersonic

I would say if your cam is made out of mild steel, it has the same conditions the testing was conducted under DIN 50017 humidity cabinet test (not sure why it would be so hard to do the same test with a cam shaft or what purified water has to do with the inside of an engine. also they use a sandblasted finish on the metal which is hugely different that a polished surface) and you believe that pitting of a cam shaft or lifter is what causes spalling and lobe failure in your cam, Then by all means add what you believe will keep that from occurring. The reality is these are mechanical devices and something will fail. Shearing the accessory drive pin results in the same tear down and cost. Just the other day opened up to check for oil level. Pow the pin came out of the latch hinge. Would proper lubrication help? Not sure. Enjoy flying your plane, you worked hard to get it change the oil often and fly some more.

As I was cleaning the rust off my older than me Rockwell Table saw top. (don't tell my grandfather he would shoot me) The top is hardened machine surface much like a cam shaft. It does not rust and pit at the same rate as mild steel. It takes a lot longer to get past surface rust and pit as in years vs months for mild steel. When you steel wool it, it just comes clean and is still good. The action of the lifter would just clean off the surface rust if it has rust. My last understanding (this may be for automobiles) of cam shafts and crank shafts was they are ground, then heat treated to form the outer layer harden surface. Regrinding them would remove the harden surface so that would need to be heat treated again. (So yes Jet Driven) I have read some of my grandfathers blacksmith books and realize that heat treating is an art form. There are probably better controls now that instrumentation is better. I think the manufacturing process history would also have to be examined. I only have a business degree and a PPL, but have managed the installation of maintenance management systems so your mileage will vary greatly

So the first problem with the Aviation consumer article is in the title. "mild steel" is not what your cam is made of. How well will the oil stick to a hardened steel polished surface is the question. Are there impurities that become higher in the oil that cause it to stick more or less. These are more the questions: Do cams/lifters spall during start up? camguard/preoilers could be an answer Do cams/lifters spall during normal operation? Lubricating properties of oil at temperature. This could be a multiweight oil thing Do sticky valves cause cams/lifters to fail? Are older cams or newer cams or cams of certain range of years have more failures? Are there lack of lubrication issues when the oil thins at running temps? Do northern based planes have a worse cam failure rate compared to southern based planes? Is there uneven cooling of the engine (yes that is why the number 3 cylinder exhaust valves have issue) hence where single CHT probe is installed. Testing oils is fun internet fodder, but it would be better to know which cylinders cams lobes fail the most and how and where the engine was operated.

Cathodic protection-galvanic corrosion

Wow $400. $40 for two SLA batteries and and some spade connectors, Charge it with a 12 volt DC wall wort.

Yours wings may have been retapped. 5/16 fine thread was what I found.

Or a florescent bulb can be excited by enough watts. Maybe a smaller one from a kitchen under counter lamp. It could all be on a combiner and going through one antenna. One of the coax could run up the pilot side pillar

Get the Mooney 100 hour/annual inspection form and start from there. Know your capabilities and limitations. Seek help on the limitations. There is nothing hard or special to work on a plane, There are good A&P and some not so careful A&Ps. Things will break after you buy one weather it is flying or not. Engines are a roll the dice. Go into it expecting to R&R every different system. There are flying planes with 40 year old hoses that pass annuals and PPI. For some that is acceptable, other not acceptable. A phrase I learned "Level of precision"

Good information. How were the intake valves functioning on the lobe that failed? In spec? Watching a valve (it was an exhaust) being driven out with a punch and a hammer, kind of makes you wonder. It was tight enough that it did not move when taking the keepers off.

Let's back it up a bit. The premise is that by preventing rusting and resulting pits, components have less a chance of spalling and failing. I would like to suggest that sticky valves and the resulting added pressure would cause more damage to a lifter and a cam than some rust. Did anyone asses the condition of the valves on the engines that spalled? Since the exhaust valves stick more, which of the valves failed?

AA is the sellers agent. Like with real estate it is good to have a buyers agent. It is easy to get the planes over to Don Maxwell and he be your buyers agent.

I think the same thing that give me the rights to take photos or video in public give the government the same rights to video in public. If you are in public doing public things and they have a camera in the sky, it is no different than a cop with a dashcam. The pods on the 182 looked like the same optics that they have on the Predator drone for targeting. Now if someone wanted to go up and tail the 182 that should also be legal

When static ports cry

obviously amateurs CB. Should have used the steel belted section