Yetti

I started looking at it to upgrade an older panel. It looks like for $5K in UAvionix Gear and $5K for a Garmin 175 you can have a complete panel upgrade. For ADSB In they are relying on their remote portable boxes. For Ipads. They also have the interface for the S-Tech Auto pilots. The install would be really easy. Just need an 8 conductor run back to the tail and done. And you would be able to remove the vacuum system if the plane does not have the Brittain system.

take some cribbing also. 2x4 and 4x4 cut to 12" 16" Jack and inch crib and inch Also can be used to raise the jack.

I would say it is probably accurate if you drop the lower cowl. It is pain. And you do have to get to the Right rear bolt on the starter. What I do is take the alternator off to get to that bolt. By taking the alternator off you don't have to drop the lower cowl. Getting to the mounting bolts on the alternator are a pain. If you went from the Prestolite starter to a newer one then they had to do some mods to the front baffling around the starter. Also count updating the paperwork and Weight and Balance update. Also might need to update Equipment list. I would put it that for the most part they did not pad the hours, It really could take someone that long. Next time try asking what they thing it will take to do the work before work is started. I always write the check out for the Annual more than what is on the bill, and he makes me do most of the work.

Because the lower support behind the panel is below the yoke shaft. But cutting a slot is the way to go.

or if you have a leaky Lycoming, they are self lubricating.

Do you have an approximate manufacture date of the cam and lobes? I am still holding to the theory that the 1990s cams/lifters had bad metallurgy.

This is the short version of what Cliffy wrote. Your mechanic does not know what they are doing and is scamming you. There are some washers that have ridges on them if you have the original washers. They go against the hemi ball. The washer with ridges are actually little bushings that go into the ball. It looks like one on the lower left may be installed on the outside of the door tang. Even so to get the doors to work best, the right number of washers need to be installed between the joint and the two door tangs. Your picture shows two washers on the outside of the tang and that is wrong. that looks like a nose door. The drawing posted above is for the main gear. Find the parts manual and look up the drawing.

One is for the panel lighting. ie glareshield lighting and one is for the Instrument lights ie it goes to the radios that have a separate lead for lighting internal to the unit.

Looks like an ongoing problem. Hole was created. Someone riveted a fiberglass doubler over the hole. muffler chewed through the doubler. Grind out around the hole and use some mat and resin to repair. Don't mix epoxy and polyester resin. Sand smooth and paint to match. Getting at why the hole gets chewed open is pretty important step.

https://forum.cessna170.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10931&sid=b89002e7145822b19c7ee39834c13031&start=15

It used to be that on a commercial flight the plane had flares and a launcher I think they were required. My friend was going through a Bonanza that still had the wiring for the flare launcher.

Correct, unless the Com relay has failed and then it will not open. Again you need to know if your 275 are wired into the Master buss or the Comm Buss.

It will be interesting to see. Let's say the EPA was disbanded under the incoming Administration. What happens to all the rules they generated? At least in Texas there are duplicative rules and an Agency to pick up some of the void. I am entertained by the ability of the Executive Branch Administration to create Government. There is this thing called PAYGO that Biden exempted the Administrative Government from when he came in. PAYGO was congresses way to get control of the spending.

There was a guy in Texas that did the impossible turn in a Mooney last year. Let me see if I can find it. All my landings are set up to be a power off 180. Runway about 25% under the wing on downwind. U turn to land. With power I just go a bit further out. If the engine were to quit and would start the U turn immediately The other thing you really want to have committed to muscle memory is push over on departure if the engine quits. Go up high set up for Take off and then cut the throttle. You want your push over to be immediate then worry about best glide once you got the nose pointed down.

I think you are correct here. So is the only law that congress made is to say the FAA should make flying safe. The rest is just made up rules that could go out the window in light of the Chevron Ruling.

Correct. The Com relay with no power on it is Closed. This way if the Com relay fails it fails so the radios keep working.

I am suggesting he use a welder to tack it and then have a good welder weld it. The funny thing here is it looks like the "professional" welder who did it last time did not get any penetration and that is why it broke. So much for the professionals. Also a good welder would have ground the rod so it fit properly into the angle steel before welding.

It depends. Rules or Laws. TSO is for a manufacture. The TSO has been made law. https://www.ecfr.gov/current/title-14/chapter-I/subchapter-C/part-21/subpart-O The FAA issues Manufactures a TSO saying they can build certified equipment. The Manufacturer issue a certificate that says their equipment complies with the standards. Here is a fun one. The Dynon STC that I paid for says Autopilot on it. The Autopilot software installed in the unit in the plane. (The Auto Pilot Software is also installed in the Backup Dynon D-10A unit) But the FAA has more rules for Autopilots, so I am not allowed to put some servos in the plane and use the Autopilot Software. Now apply the Chevron ruling to the FAA Rules

Well if it is OK to use Auto paint on your airplane.

The Com bus actually comes on (provides a signal} before the Comm relay can turn it off when the master relay comes on. It's momentary. This is probably why we could deduce at least 1 of the 275s are wired to the comm buss. I started with it would help to know how they are wired.

I believe Rochester is the manufacture of those. It's probably the Black inline fuse holder up near the shunt on the passenger side firewall.

When you say we does that mean you and your A&P? Why does your A&P not know how to weld? Or at least braze it.

These are great because you can run them off a regular outlet (or off an Heavy duty extension cord) The two other tools would be a 4" grinder and the cut off tool https://www.harborfreight.com/welding/welders/easy-flux-125-amp-welder-57861.html I put new hinges on my hangar door with that little guy. https://www.harborfreight.com/6-amp-3-in-high-speed-electric-cut-off-tool-59248.html That is a tricky piece to weld. Which is why it broke, they got no penetration on the angle iron. You are going to want to clean it up first, reinstall it and clamp in place, then take it out to tack. Then test fit. If test fit tack does not go well, cut off and redo. Then final weld. or take to muffler shop for final weld. If you try welding around electronics (radios and computers) stray voltage from the welder may pop them. Keep the ground clamp close to the work. In a closed hangar there may be gas fumes from your plane or someone else so you might want to work outside. Clean up the splatter, sand and paint. Some of these might help or also some needle nose vise grips. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-welding-and-sheet-metal-clamp-set-30024.html

So it really depends on how the 275 are wired in. Also it could be the Comm Bus Relay. The Comm bus relay will fail to being closed. Which means when you turn on the master it opens the Comm bus relay and stops power from flowing to the comm bus. You may want to check where the Comm switch was on or off. Sometimes you would want one gauge wired to the master bus and the other wired to the Comm buss. This is more in line with an engine monitor that you want to come on with the master so you can watch the engine start on the EMS. Lastly there is a circuit that turns off the Comm bus when the starter is engaged I would go with you forgot to turn off the comm panel switch. The other thing could be that a battery failed in one of the 275s and it used to stay on via battery when the starter switch was turned on.

Paintless dent repair will pull it out. You can buy a kit several online places