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About Oldguy

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    Won't Leave!
  • Birthday May 14

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    : Pell City, Alabama (KPLR)
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  1. @NicoN have you checked with Aeroskill Maestenbrek in Holland? I believe they are a MSC and can probably both answer your question and have a place to do Mooney gauges.
  2. John, is the cost you mention just for the annual inspection or does it include remediation of everything it finds needing attention? My annual is only $1,800 and any repair or other work I have done is in addition to that. My total bill has ranged anywhere from $2,200 to about $4,000 depending on what I need done in addition to the annual inspection, but we always talk about what has been identified by the inspection before any of that work is done. One year was mount new tires and another one was shock disc change out, but those were planned before the annual.
  3. AKA "PEBCAK" - Problem Exists Between Chair And Keyboard.
  4. I consider myself one of the incredibly lucky ones as my wife recommended we get something faster than the 172 we had so we got the J. Now, as we come up on retirement and are planning trips, the comment "It would be nice if the interior was more comfortable" gave me approval (at least by my standards) to get new carpet, sidewalls, some new plastic and old plastic repainted, and the seats covered in new leather. Throw in the new Avidyne, Aspen MAX upgrades, and a few other new pieces, and she is looking forward to spending even more time in the plane being the radio/GPS operator. I like to fly, and she like to go places. This has worked out well...
  5. I guess I will be the contrarian here. When I did the Aspen in my panel, I changed out enough other parts to eliminate the need for the vacuum system other than my speed brakes. I pulled the standby vacuum pump in the rear of the plane, saving 12 lbs. but kept the one on the engine solely for the speed brakes. I looked at switching to electric, but the total cost was closer to $8k and essentially gave me zero additional functionality over what I had so I opted to keep the vacuum pump just for them, and if they ever die, I will swap out to the electric ones. I have never had any problems with mine deploying or retracting, and I make sure they are looked at every annual. The only thing I wish I could get is the mount for under the left horn of the pilot's yoke so I would not have to reach up on the panel every time I wanted to deploy them. According to my POH, mine were added at the factory and delivered with the plane, so they currently have over 5,000 hours on them.
  6. When I replaced my 800 with the 830, I got the extension cables from JPI. It made the relocation a non-event. Moved it from the right side panel to the left, and had enough cable to install it and be able to connect all of the cables from the front of the panel before mounting it. I think it took me - er, my mechanic - less than 2 hours.
  7. All of the above is right on track UNTIL you decide to update/upgrade something in your plane. Then you have the opportunity to get into the upgrade/update process, and get "while I am in the panel/engine/interior, I might as well do...."-itis, and your little $5000 project adds another digit. Or, you restrain yourself from doing that, and after you spend a modest amount on your panel, your engine feels neglected and starts burning oil like you own the oil well. In all seriousness, it is wise to begin a contingency fund to handle any expensive problems which may happen without warning. Either cash or a credit card with a sufficient limit will do, but nothing is more demoralizing than having spent money on a plane only to not fly it because a somewhat expensive problem popped up unexpectedly which you cannot fix due to cost. My annual expenses: $4000 for large box hangar, $1400 for insurance, $2000-$3000 for annual inspection, ~$1000 for subscriptions, $100 per oil change (done by me) I am fortunate to have a former MSC mechanic on my home field across from the avionics shop. He does things for me like pull my plane into his air conditioned hangar on weekends while working on my interior this summer. All of this helps keep my costs relatively low.
  8. You might try Aircraft Propeller Works in Auburndale, FL. A friend who flies a Commander 114 was told the same about his, and was able to source one from here. Their phone number is (863) 875-4800. Best of luck.
  9. Current pricing on a J model is all over the place, depending on the J. Recently, one sold for slightly under $200k. Several folks marveled at the astronomical price until they learned only 2 years ago it sold for over $200k. It would not be unheard of to spend $150k and up for the 205 you are looking at with a fully upgraded panel. One of the members here, @gsxrpilot, has a list he made of priorities to find when searching for an airplane. It goes from "absolutely have to have" to "would be nice" and includes things such as corrosion-free plane, mid-time engine, WAAS GPS, etc. based on what he wanted from his plane. If you can prioritize what you want to have in the plane when you buy it, what you are willing to put in (spend $$ on), and what you can wait to do, if ever, you can quickly eliminate planes you see. My 1984 J was purchased in 2013 for well under $100k, but is currently insured for $125K with no argument from my broker. This year, it is getting a new interior, IFD 540, and a few other upgrades. Next year it is in line for the Aspen MAX upgrades for the PFD and MFD. After all that is done, I will probably push the insurance up higher, and again I expect no problems with my broker taking the new figure. I carry 4 people in my plane on a regular basis, although the trips we take are usually within 2 hours. We are often close to gross, but then again, I am 6'5" and 215 and the friends we take total about 350 lbs. together (not sharing my wife's wt. Not stupid.). The four of us have gone from my home airport in central Alabama to about a hour west of Houston. We made one stop as we are more limited by bladders than fuel. The last thing I will say is be careful of getting a "deal". With your automotive background, you probably know those are rare and they almost always have something which makes them a money pit rather than a deal. With a plane, the problem is not only the cash, but there can be hidden problems which could, at best, make your plane not airworthy and at worst cost you a life. The same MS member, @gsxrpilot has a list of those of us who have gotten deals only to find out they were "Mooney" pits. Best of luck in your search.
  10. The instructions on how to weigh my J go so far as to state where the seats should be set, flaps in the full up position, and how to tell if it is level before starting the entire process.
  11. And I checked with my mechanic, and he has his scales calibrated and certified every year. Your W&B looks like your mechanic's scales are just about 4 months short of 2 years. Is what my mechanic hold true for everyone, or is he just anal about making sure nothing gets out of whack?
  12. Probably not what you want to hear, but how much fuel does your plane hold, and what weight per gallon did he use? The standard is 6 lbs./gal., but that would mean you were full and can carry 77 gals. when the plane was weighed! If you have less than 77 gal. capacity, then your UL will be even less! If you have the standard 52 gal. of useful fuel, then your fuel would only weigh 52 x 6 or 312 lbs. instead of 462. That would put your UL 150 lbs. less or only 578! And that is only if you were full when he weighed it. Less than full and even less UL. Do you have the original equipment list and its weight then as well as what you have added/removed? I would also be interested to see any of the w&b forms done between then and now. Just looking at the POH for a 1971, it shows the empty weight to be around 1,600 lbs. Not trying to be a smart a$$, but was someone sitting in the plane when it was weighed?
  13. I am at ~1,600 SMOH on my A3B6D and will change out to the A3B6 when it is time, so I have been following different threads about folks who have done or are doing this. One thread that went into great detail with pictures, part numbers, etc. I have listed below. The one item I read in it not mentioned in yours, is his discovery the oil line included by Lycoming for the prop does not fit. Dan at LASAR helped him out, and he included pictures showing how it went as well as the part number. Might be good to just run through his thread to see if there are any other nuggets of information hidden in there. Edit: Just reread where you got the correct prop oil line. Good going!
  14. If you are lucky. If you are not.... well, did you know fiberglass will tear and run when it twists? Ask me how I know.
  15. And this, if it helps explain better.