Yetti

I was just searching for wright brothers flyer because I knew it had wooden control handles. Hopefully your son is still flying.

If it is the one I am thinking of you can get that at the tractor supply store.

probably about an hour job at most. Nothing hard. Mine is currently apart, I will take pictures. You may want to pre plan and order the gaskets. You could have them in several days if you call today.

Turn the Fuel to OFF. You will need to have the gear door swing in to get the the screws next to it. So you have one bolt to remove on the gear door link arm. A bunch of panel screws. One wired bolt in the bottom of the selector. It will all come off. LASAR has the screen gasket. bonus points for straightening the holes in the access panel. probably want to drain some fuel out of each tank while everything is apart.

Thanks for the part numbers.

They do look like ACME threads http://www.mcmaster.com/#precision-acme-lead-screws/=wu2jpt http://www.sdp-si.com/Acme-Lead-Screws.htm The transmission side is probably a pin or a nut which should not be hard for a machinist to swap out lead screws. Based on Mooney sourcing practices, you would think that this is not specific to a Mooney. Would it be possible to convert over to manual gear for cheaper.

but bonus points for the knowing the keyboard shortcut for getting a cents sign to appear.

Sure the listed price is .35 cents. But is that really the TCO? Computer amortization, shipping, internet connection, waiting time to install, Inventory carrying cost, warehouse cost. lack of shelf space for beer inventory. Did you do quality control checks on the batch? Being a management consultant, I could easily get the cost per 1 over a dollar each.

An engineer and a blacksmith would not get along. Since a fair amount of tempering is done by visual cues. And do you use water or oil for quenching. I would rather bush hog grass with a blade drawn by a blacksmith than a engineer. The drawn blade will last longer.

put them on a piece of safety wire. use propane torch to heat up till you see a bit of color change, then quench. at a buck a piece that is two gallons of gas. CB club application submitted

It is kind of a fiber type material, so we are guess someone stuffed a paper towel in a line past the fuel selector and then forgot it, maybe while the pump was being replaced. All the hoses are new so we will flush the lines anyways. In other good news, the plane came with a Weldon pump. So no self destructing Duke to send plastic parts up stream. It is possible that the material was acting like a paper filter and passing fuel, or the screen went to bypass.

If the starter does not spin it is not the bendix. Unless the bendix is sticking engaged. Silicone it. I would suggest one phase of the starter armature is bad. When it stops on the bad part, then it won't spin off. or the brushes are broken

It was good enough for Orville and Wilber

The list of items that A&Ps have signed off as "airworthy" is lengthy and continues to grow. The good news is that as we continue to go through the plane, the confidence of actual airworthiness continues to build.

The top right of the Mooney annual inspection/100 hour says "1. Inspect fuel injection system, clean screens & injector nozzles (refer to Textron Lycoming O/H Manual, Section 8 or TCM Service Manual." So with a wrench remove the fuel hose And a socket To clean the screen you tap it on the table and stuff comes out. and you keep tapping it and more stuff comes out It kind of looks like someone left a paper towel in the line. There is a spring that will allow fuel to bypass. Check down the bore to see what is there and replace the O rings for RSA 5 fuel servo Reassemble and now know that fuel will go to the injectors as planned.

It would be better to lay up the wood to get the depth. Marine epoxy and mahogany would probably be stronger than alum. The alum insert for the yoke shaft just to keep the bolt from wearing and put a set screw or two in.

To answer the question. I believe Aviator Plus in Brenham can do it for you. http://www.aviatorsplus.com/about-us.html

I am still wanting to know where leather hides were going for $200. The best I found is $250. I am thinking of splurging and doing the lower side panels as leather over alum.

I could build yokes out of wood with some alum inserts. Hmmm that thought never crossed my mind... but now that it has been suggested. Owner supplied part

Spruce is usually in the wings spars

If I wanted to redo the interior of the mooney in some nice mahogany... would that fly. I would probably dispense with the sconces

Hmm maybe I should shorten mine, of I wonder of the retrofit for a retractable

My comment was not for you. For those soon to attempt it. On the passenger side I was twisting it past the window. I also did not realize they were jam nuts, so I took the first one off thinking I was cross threading. Then I put is on with the flat ratchet and had to figure out how to get the ratchet out. You are pretty good at it after the second one is done.

If you read the instructions, they say to start high with the clamp to get it around the tube, then side it down. on the pilot this requires removing some screws that hold the skin on and bending the skin tab out.