Yetti

If he does good work and you trust him there is something to be said. He has tools, rent and training time and documentation time. And Mooney take a bit longer to work on so there is something there. You would have to go find the mandrels and a vice to make the hoses yourself.

it is $1100.00 for eight firewall forward fancy internal fire sleeved silicon hoses from PHT when you by the whole set

$100 for the belt - a bit much more like $25 - depends on where you source from and $300 for the two oil cooler hoses. - Depends on if you got fancy silicon light tan - also have to cut up a wrench to get one of them tight. Not as fun to do with the mags on. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ep/hose_0stratoflex.html They did take off my oil cooler and I had them reinstall my old one. -the oil lines and oil cooler together is 2 hrs. if in the cowl can be a bit tricky for what should be a simple 4 bolt affair. 30-45 minutes Include a flush? about right I think the prop/ alternator belt is 2 1/2 hrs, about right. Total time is 4 1/2 hrs. The shop bill is $1200 which I have not paid as of yet. Subtract the parts at $400 from the $1200 bill leaves $800 for labor. $800/4.5 hrs is about $175/hr. So, is that out of line? Depends on the agreed to hourly rate

I would think drilling the two rivets out that hold the limit switch in and finding a replacement limit switch would work. But I have just seen pictures on the internet. There seem to be a fair amount of them on flea bay. Show us pictures of the underside.

Or you can carry one of these for you and your friends who may need one. http://www.rockler.com/1-2-power-twist-plus-link-v-belt?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V9146&gclid=Cj0KEQjwms-vBRDlsM7utpaJ47ABEiQAIpKjTBbPO-hxwmVx8KJbLJYP3PRTeYbrxRglGcJrqJFh-ngaAmK78P8HAQ Yes prop off to change. Takes about 30 minutes to take off. safety tieing the prop is should we say is intricate. I was going to make a tool for torquing the bolts for my A&P that did mine.

Funny mine is placarded "Missiles" You must have the close air support Mooney version.

Since you like getting your hands into it. Make your own panels and cut your own carpet. Spend a couple of days getting to know your plane on the inside. Save yourself lots of money

also if you have large feet make sure you are not hitting the brakes. Somewhere in the pattern I think "heels on floor" "heels on floor" and wiggle the rudder.

landing slower can help also. Not that I do it, but I was told to do it.

The thing I would think is the boost pump is below the fuel tanks so it is getting gravity fed and will get all the fuel. The mechanical fuel pump is in a hot environment above the fuel tanks. So the boost pump has the best fuel source.

I just fixed a couple spots feather the old paint. Rustolum White primer build it up maybe a coat or two of primer. Maybe some 1200 wet dry wet sanding. Then Rustolum Gloss white. Pretty good up to about 2 feet away.

repaint or original? If repaint, looks like bad preparation.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#expansion-test-plugs/=ysd5dm

I try to spread out the purchase of items over several months if possible still need 2 more. Annual is a couple of months away

It is just me or do when you see pictures or other planes flying overhead you look at the tail first?

One of the things on the maintenance program.... had already bought 2 of the Lord.... should I return and get Barry?

Is that wet or dry 18 ft lbs? I recall the BMW motorcycle board got into a multi page discussion about weather the bolts should be cleaned or not before torquing

Exploded parts diagrams are a great thing. Glad competent people were able to help you out

For range marking on the tach..... http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/rangemarkdecal.php

qty 2 010 orings per side. take them apart and get the corrosion and gunk out of them. Adjust them to properly open and close

good information. Have to give that a try

me too. They seem to be from the flared fitting. If it was from the threaded into the cylinder part of the elbow, I would probably try permetex #2

do you want to suck dirt through your vacuum lines?

Since it worked fine with the electric pump, I vote something in the mechanical pump is gone south.