kmyfm20s

My sure fly came with screws for the slick harness.

Mine is the same.

Love the music! Gave a little retro feel to the video.

I wasn’t very clear with my question. The lighted indicator on the panel next to the trim switch itself. Mine in level flight indicates on the lower limit of the takeoff zone. Unless I’m doing a high speed dive it doesn’t indicate out side of the takeoff zone. I’m wondering if it Can be calibrated?

Does anyone know if the rudder trim indicator is adjustable?

I generally have had favorable experience with so cal unless the conditions are IMC. Then all priority goes to the commercial flights. Nothing resembles any practice approach or IFR flight plans in VMC. Flying on V66 into Gillespie or Montgomery they will vector you slightly north and make you climb to 10K just to slam dunk you on approach. I have had reasonable success filling for V317 and them keeping me at 8K giving me a better descent profile. In the LA area they will reroute you all over the place if it is IMC. You need to get good at finding waypoints and reprogramming flight plans rapidly.

See now that you have a spare belt your guaranteed to never need it:)

Thanks every! Contact cleaner and a little flipping of the switch levers works like a charm. Pictures included for the next person. Hard to see the switches but I put the bight spot of the flashlight on each one and the actuator.

From the shadows in your picture you got in a little latter than me. Just about underneath in your bottom picture is the largest wood train trestle in the country. I’ll be at KMYF all day of you need anything while in San Diego!

This just happened to mine yesterday. Glad I found this post! I am stuck in the full right position also. Hopefully mine is a simple fix like the others.

But it gets you home:)

For what it’s worth when I had my 182 I had a belt break. Luck would have it I was in a place to have it easily repaired. At the time I was flying to remote airstrips and Mexico a lot. I realized I would have been really screwed if this happen on one of those flights. For that plane and then my J when the prop was off I put an extra belt on and zip tied it out of the way. If the current belt breaks you don’t have to remove the prop and can use some simple tools.

Wow, documenting their adventures and travels. Eloping then crashing the plane how sad! Departing to the east is really challenging in a single piston, maybe they where turbo-normalized? As mentioned above it could be CO poisoning. Here is an article on Telluride airport https://www.aopa.org/news-and-media/all-news/2019/december/flight-training-magazine/flying-carpet-mountain-airport

Fly into to both those airports and they are great! I just had/have an offer to use a friends house in Breckinridge and though I would give it a shot I. I actually just drove to Durango and back last week. Great time of year to be there!

I like your reasoning! I could see myself accidentally pushing the starter button on a mag check and blowing out a starting coupler or worse shear off some gears(Continental). I’m fine with the interruption when I switch between the mag and the SF now that I know exactly what to expect.

I mentioned that also. I think it’s a little pool of oil but sure looks like a hole from the photo!

I would replace the piston. Who knows what fracture have been initiated or are undetectable as a result of the valve hitting on it. I would hate for it to come apart after putting things back together latter down the road. Funny the photo of the top cylinder looks like a hole next to the spark plug but I’m sure it’s just an illusion from oil or a shiny spot.

I do the same technique and it has always worked. I leave the throttle full and wait until I here the engine catch then pull the it straight to idle. The first few times you do it the engine will rev until you get the hang of the throttle. Keep your brakes on:) The only time it doesn’t work is if I don’t prime enough. This is basically the same as a flooded engine start.

Make me want to add a smoke system to the Mooney:) pretty impressive!

Sounds like a timing issue but do you have an engine monitor with data or down load?

Update. With the new SureFly power conditioner the plane flies flawlessly. Only one test flight so not a lot of data but everything seems to have a little improvement. Definitely nothing went backwards with exception of slightly higher CHT’s. Im thinking the CHT’s maybe 10-15 degrees hotter but this is after the advanced timing kicks in. More flight time will be needed to get the exact increases, it was a really hot day on the flight. Overall very smooth, LOP is noticeably smoother, FF has decreased a little, speed may have had a little bump but maybe wishful thinking. No weight savings with the new added power conditioner. Future areas for improvement will be to open up the spark plug gaps to get a larger spark on the SF plugs. It will generate spark up to .038 of gap. Other areas of discussion are the timing. The engine manual says 22 degrees +/- 2 degrees. The SF has 24 degrees as an option but will investigate the regs on 24. I am currently set at 22 as per the engine data plate and as spelled out in the instruction. Your passengers will definitely know if you do an in air mag check. When switching from the mag to the SF it shuts off for a split second. When going from both mags to the SF you do not feel a mag drop but it does register a 20 to 30 RPM drop. As mentioned in my original post the RPM pickup and power supply where may main concerns about the install and did end up causing the longest delays and frustration with the install. Hopefully this will save someone some time. I connected directly to #2 battery and follow the main battery cable through the cabin into the engine compartment. The new power conditioner has 2 components which looks like a voltage step down transformer and a capacitor. The planes that have 12V systems don’t have these problems that the planes with the 24V systems have been having. I’m assuming the PC17V does just that and takes the 24V to 17V. I added some pictures below. The transformer was mounted on the cooling side of the baffling behind cylinder #1. It receives power directly from battery #2 and then the positive and negative connect directly to the SF terminals. Mounted the capacitor directly opposite of the transformer. The positive and negative run directly to the SF terminals. This is what the resistors look like for the RPM pickup. This goes inline from the P-lead pickup on the SF to the EDC of the EI MVP-50. The SF requires a slick ignition harness. Since I opted for the screw in leads I numbered them so I didn’t screw things up:) The manifold pickup. Found this nice little port on the intake for #1.

COVID shut this trip down! All good information since I will be going back this ski season.

There are dip switches in the SureFly to set the timing. You set your timing to what your data plate say on the engine.

Beautiful! Coming along nicely!!

I thought I would post an update, still not flying yet! My two initial concerns have been the biggest holdups on this install. The 24 volt power supply and the RPM pickup for the EI MVP-50. The install itself was easy. Find TDC cylinder #1, set the internal timing of the E-mag, install and confirm timing. I opted to run a straight power line through the cabin and connect directly to battery number 2. I picked battery 2 because it has less connected to it. The RPM pickup for the EI MVP-50 requires a resistor. This was a frustrating and tedious process. When I called SureFly they said around 18K should be about right and when I talked to EI they said around 4K or less should be about right. This took a week of locating, ordering with trial and error until I got the correct one. To save someone a lot of time that is installing a SureFly to a EI product you need between a 16K-20K 1/2 watt resistor. You can buy a variety pack on amazon and you can put them in series if needed. They either work or they don’t so you can’t tell when your getting close. The 24 volt installs of the SureFly’s have been seeing more bugs with the installation. They have been seeing more transients in the power supply that cause the SureFly to constantly reset itself. When it resets it behaves exactly like a failed mag and the engine runs rough and sporadically. This is because it basically shutting off and on. In reading the forums this seemed to happen when people connected to an improper power supply or didn’t connect directly to the battery. I didn’t discover this with mine until I was with the mechanic ready for the sign off this Monday. After I installed the SureFly part of the post install test was to basically start the engine, shut off everything, run it up to 1800 rpm and see if it still run on the SureFly alone. I did and it ran really smooth and I was happy. The difference was when I ran it up last time with the mechanic I had everything on including the alternator field switch and it ran crappy! I guess on every other run up I had never bothered to turn the alternator on after I had turned it off and it was introducing the transients into the power line. The other thing I noticed is that I always it turned off the alternator at low power before the run up. I mentioned in some other post is that it wasn’t a huge transformation from my magneto but at low RPM the transients are there but not as pronounced and it ran just like a magneto. With the alternator field switch off it ran noticeably smoother at low and high RPM’s! A call to SureFly and they just got FAA approval for an in line power conditioner which eliminates these transients in the power supply. Looking forward to receiving it and installing tomorrow. If it does what its supposed to the SureFly will be a nice addition. So far a 3 week off, one week for resistor, a week Elk hunting and another week for a power conditioner. After this 3 week process I’m looking forward to flying this weekend! I will report back with my experience.