kmyfm20s

After a week of trial and error I settle in 19.6K resistor. Between my SureFly and EI MVP-50. It seems like 17K-20K worked well and is where I would recommend people start. I wasted a lot of time playing around from 0-12K.

Of course it depends a lot on altitude and wind. The shortest runway I land on is 2100’ is in Monument OR. Altitude of 2500’ msl. Occasionally I go to Fallbrook here in San Diego at 2160’ but it at an altitude of 700’ msl.

consider getting your baffling powder coated while you have it a part. It looks really good and is easy to clean. I did on my last J when I replaced all cylinders. I did just a spray can overhaul on the bottom end:)

You are doing a proper job for sure and wasn’t suggesting you weren’t! To the less knowledgeable person an unpainted engine from a top engine builder would have less value that’s a nicely painted engine from a lesser builder. Or they just trick the person with a fresh paint job. You appear to have both the paint and the builder taken care of in top fashion, nice work!

Nailed it!

Congratulations! You are a real asset to the Mooney community!!

That represents a lot of sawzall work!

That is a lot of flying. Since my office opened after the COVID closure I have been averaging 6 hours during the week and 6 to 8 hours at least 1 weekend a month. The next 12 months I should be really racking up some hours!

Maybe my flaps aren’t rigged properly also?

Not in my Eagle. Take off flaps are about 2 to 3 inches below no flaps. Full deflection of ailerons are about 2/3 to 3/4 of full flaps. I often wonder why there are not 3 flap position because a middle position would be my favorite when landing light.

The spray can overhaul adds the most value to the engine!

I thought I read somewhere here on MS that @piperpainter set his flaps to match full aileron down deflection to get best short/soft field performance. Of course he had a short body and mechanical flaps so doesn’t necessarily apply to long bodies but it would be interesting to add to @carusoam experiment.

When I last checked the price between overhaul vs inspect/repair didn’t seem to be a big difference, I figured I would overhaul. I just replaced one of my mag’s with a SureFly and I am keeping the removed magneto as a spare. When it comes up to the 500hr mark for the remaining mag I will send the removed mag out for overhaul so it will ready to go. My plan is to reduce the down time and have a functional spare at all times in the event the remaining mag unexpectedly fails. The SureFly is good for 2400 hours.

I was talking to a neighbor that has his shop next to me. He races formula 1000 cars. He was showing me how they make their custom molded race seats with foam and plastic bags. They then use spray contact cement to cover them with material. They are virtually rock hard but he’s says since they are molded that they are supper comfortable as a result of the support. Since the seat bottoms of my Eagle are simply velco’d on in place I was going to make a seat bottom this way and try it out.

I have inadvertently taken off with full flaps in my screaming eagle and it was an eye opener. The plane literally lifts off the ground and the nose pitches down, I felt like I was going to have a prop strike. If trimmed for a full flaps takeoff the nose down tendency might not be as bad but your air speed is so slow you might not get enough elevator authority. Regardless when it happened I instantly knew what I did and take out a notch of flap immediately. The electric flaps retract slow enough it began to speed up in ground effect and transitioned nicely, everything went to normal. I was off the ground in no time!

That is want EI told me also, 4K. I’m going to call them Monday and let them know my findings. SureFly was on the right track when they told me 18K. You want 1/2 watt resistors which you can order resistors variety packs on amazon. I had some resistors available to me and had to put 2 in a series 9.4K and 6.6K as measured with an ohm meter for a total of 16K. Not sure what the label resistance was since they where given to me. Once the 2 resistor where solder together they measured 19.6K. When testing I just twisted them in series and on to the p-lead wire once I was confident they were soldered. My other mag is a Bendix and just uses the EI isolator provided by them. Im sure you already know this but the voltage output of a magneto will fry your EDC (Computer) if you do not have an isolated in place. With the SureFly it luckily didn’t Fry mine and it shouldn’t have with a straight connection but I didn’t get an rpm reading. Now I just need to go get mine signed off and fly it:)

If you haven’t figured out your RPM issue you will need between a 16K-18K resistor to replace the EI inline isolator for the P-lead pickup. I just installed a SureFly ignition and have an EI MVP-50. Through a lot of trail and error I believe mine was a 14.6k resistor. I will check today and report back but I had to put 2 resistors in series to get the correct ohm.

With my previous 182 I did an inexpensive and functional method of recovering it myself. Peel off or repair the cracked vinyl and cover with black felt. Use the high temp 3M 90 spray on cement. It’s really easy, looks good and you get no glare. It does not look nearly as finished as AreoComfort product as shown above.

.3 GAMI spread is pretty good! It would be fun to hear a follow up. I would have preferred to see the end of the sample segment on the down slope of the curve instead of at the peak of #1. The fuel jars look pretty even so I would look for an induction leak next. The o-rings where the induction tubes go into the plenum crack over time and go unnoticed. Air, spark and gas:)

I actually got it installed Friday a week ago but didn’t wrap it up until today. The most frustrating part of the job was finding the correct resistor for the RPM pickup for the EI MVP-50 off the P-lead. New territory for both EI and Surefly. It took a lot of trial and error to get to the correct size resistor plus waiting to get the different sizes delivered took a while. I now need to get it inspected and get the log book entry to go fly it. That would have happened this Monday but I’m leaving for a week to Colorado so that won’t happen until next week now. So far nothing earth shattering to report with the few run ups I did. My ignition system was in pretty good shape and ran smooth to begin with. I’m looking forward to flying it and seeing how the advanced timing performs. I will add some photos and parts used for future installers after I get a couple flights in.

In California when I bought my plane you had to do the transaction through a broker to roll the proceeds over.

https://acphospitalist.org/archives/2009/12/tech.htm here is a article on it. The fact that you maintained 98% the entire flight I bet Rich is right!

I thought it might have been a San Diego thing, all of us trying to log on at once

I bought brand new cylinders for my plane and Dropped shipped them straight to Ly-Con. They will receive them tomorrow to Port, polish flow balance, and reface the valves. They are going to also alodine them which they say makes them run cooler. Aside from the claimed performance gain I was more concerned of the notorious continental valve Problems. They say thAt they will inspect and correct them with the refacing. Good insurance at $300 a cylinder in my opinion. since you are turbocharged I would Imagine you would get more benefit from the port and polish than me.

Send the cylinders to Ly-Con while your at it!