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TLDR: I'm having quality issues with the Skybolts with loose t-posts or posts that fall out. Have never run into this issue with CamLoc brand. Got the Mooney back from paint and needed to get my cowl sorted out...evidently some of the larger 4000 series Skybolts weren't retained...it appears that that retention ring wasn't able to get enough purchase under the lip on the inner side. I also decided to "upgrade" to the 2800 series with the slightly wider flange, and apply split washers to the inside for retention. Long story short...for some reason I've had 6 of the new stainless Skybolts where the T-post is either loose or fell out of the 2800 series I purchased. And I had 5 of these in the 2700 series that were installed at paint that had the same happen. Skybolts are priced much cheaper than CamLoc and look nice, but the quality doesn't seem to measure up. Initially I had thought the ones at the paint shop may have been over torqued or somehow damaged. I called Skybolt and they're sending a return label, but mentioned that I wasn't the first person to hear about this in the past month. I also took the time to map out all the sizes of the camlocs. I found that with paint it made some of the 4000 (larger size) grommets (SK-HS standard size Mooney grommet) not able to seat the snap ring properly and so the large camloc and grommet falls out with removal. I'll try one of the other sized grommets (SK-O18S) to see if this might work...I'm not sure the clearance between the cowl and receptacle below and if it will tolerate a longer grommet projecting behind the cowl or not. We'll see. Couple other learning points: nylon washers weren't needed to retain the split washer (2600SW). Only need these if your hole is big enough to pull the split washer back through... Camloc pliers are super helpful with the 4000 series as well as making it easier in general. IPC shows -4 size for the sides...but most of mine are -5's and -6's for the top cowl. I made a "map" for my cowl but I need to renew my MS membership so I can add a picture. Back corners are 2 sizes larger than the rest. 2800 series are mostly 1 size larger than the 2700 series as they don't sit down in the hole as deep, however the 2700 series that sit "proud" used the same size, and the ones that sit "super tight" needed one size up and still were a little snug. Snap rings: They have a R4TS and a R4GS. But with the thickness of the Mooney cowl, you don't have enough clearance for the R4T...its wider but it's also thicker (and they are a PITA to get off without a tool. The R4G is what you want and it's much easier to get off.

So does Mooney Max. But those two are at the same location.

How many have ever broken on a car? Why do you change them on a car? What happens to the car if one breaks during a run? Welcome to the world of aviation where AVIATION=$$$$$$ :-) :-) No different than medicine where a drug I know of costs $360 for the brand name yet the generic costs $60

Let's see. The GNS-430 came out about 1998. They are still serviceable, except for the screens, and that has been only for the past couple of years. So based on that, you can realistically expect a shining new panel be maintainable for at least 25 years. The G1000 came out in 2004, and they are still making and installing them in new airplanes. But, I do agree with you that the older stuff will still work great for many owners.

Wet air pumps have metal rotors and vanes and are lubricated with engine oil. They require an air oil separator to recover the oil from the pump exhaust. On some installations the exhaust is used to pressurize deice boots. You don’t want to fill your boots with oil. Wet pumps are more reliable than dry pumps, but are messier and the separators take some maintenance. In the 70s most manufacturers changed to dry pumps. This was supposed to be a big improvement. They were cleaner and less maintenance, but they were prone to sudden failure. https://www.chiefaircraft.com/aircraft/vacuum-static-system/air-pump-wet.html

So when you sweep to lean is number 2 cylinder the first one to peak or is number 2 the last one to peak?

I do not know what the difference between dry and wet pump and how does that effect whether there is a oil separator on the engine and is that available for mooney aircraft?

As mentioned before, MEK works but is aggressive. Acetone is gentler on the paint but is nearly as effective as MEK at dissolving avgas dye. The main challenge with acetone is that it evaporates rapidly, especially on a hot day when rubbing a hot airplane. It's boiling point of 133°F is 50°F lower than MEK. It's also more than twice as volatile in terms of its vapor pressure rating. Storing it in the hangar fridge helps to delay evaporation during use. It is also way easier to obtain than MEK and relatively cheap.

Yes! thank you, i guess i didnt dig deep enough!

Beechcraft updated there spec in 1972 to a dry pump from wet. when owners go all electric or dry they do the swap in tubing There are four versions on singles Iam the only one that has provided the ability to Cnc to sample in 304

Away from my references and trying to remember this. I do the same thing, but also keep the wx page zoomed out. I like North up at larger scales, and I believe there's a setting to set a zoom threshold where it switches. Might check that as it could affect the display.

, We understand. You're not out of the woods yet. Going straight to the noisemaker makes sense. But if that doesn't work, you might consider testing the wire. I hear stories around here of things wearing where they cross metal, especially if not secured with a clamp. Just a thought.

Smirking here...the question was if anyone has used mouse milk to remove the fuel stain. "I saw on a previous post that someone had great success using mouse milk to remove a gas stains. Not sure if the details but has anyone used it with any success? I’ve read all the threads on out other suggestions to remove stains, but it seems like limited success with everything else." So, to answer the question, I have not used mouse milk to remove the fuel dye stain. However, I have also removed the stain by using fuel on a cloth. The dye transfers to the cloth easily, without much rubbing effort.

The original Hartzell on my C was condemned because it had been overhauled the maximum allowable number of times. Both blades with root diameter under min. limit. So I bought a Hartzell "Top Prop" to replace it. I saw no increase in speed. It might have been a little bit quieter, but not obviously so. I had it installed in August. The paint started to come off the stripes on tips the first time I flew through rain, in Sept. Took it back to the shop where I bought it and they repainted it in Nov. I paid (again) to have it reinstalled. Next time I flew through rain- paint started coming off again. Repainted in November, and here is a photo of what it looked like the following June. Hartzell couldn't care less. The prop shop said that they would keep repainting it if I returned it to their shop. It costs money to remove/reinstall a prop, and the prop shop wouldn't pay. Hartzell couldn't rub two coins together. I never landed on grass or taxied through weeds. Nothing unusual. Just flew through rain. My experience with the Hartzell Top Prop was not positive. If I had it to do over again, I'd try to find a good used prop with a "B" hub.

GI-275 ADAHRS+AP units work just fine with the KAP and KFC 150 series autopilots. The KAP will not have flight bars and there is no alt preselect functions with a GI-275. You must follow the alignment procedure outlined in the GI-275 IM when interfacing with the King autopilot. We have done this interface multiple times on various airframes and no issues. Make sure whoever is the installing shop knows this interface, has the KTS158 or has built the breakout harness in the GI-275 IM before, and has done the alignment to the flight computer.

And if you’re worried about those things you can use the supplemental bottle. these portable generators are NOT good above 15k for two people or 18k for 1. Pressurized bottles and on demand delivery is by far cheaper, and better in every scenario anyway, so I don’t know why anyone would consider this. (Yes, I have tested this scientifically and am working to put together the data)

I have the Scimitar on my C. I was getting about 145 knots TAS for many years. Then I had it overhauled mostly due to time. Nothing wrong with the prop itself. At the same time I had a new governor put on. Prior to the new governor My prop was having difficulty cycling on the ground and the RPM always drifted in flight. Now it's rock solid and I am getting 150 knots TAS.

seems to me that a metal stand off heat shield on the exhaust pipe should also be fashioned for that area. Trying to remember if there was not one on the F model

Thanks everybody! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this what you are looking for? From the download section: https://mooneyspace.com/files/file/177-m20-series-service-and-maintenance-manual-1968-1978-1pdf/ If not, there are other factory manuals available there if you look around.

Snowbird Mooney on FB did a comparison on the I think it was between 3 blade Hartzell v 2 Blade McCauley prop on mid 60's C Models. .https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fyoutu.be%2FrEx4EzV4NJM%3Fsi%3D4RMULGDEmuZ8hZkY%26fbclid%3DIwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR64Xg2d9PKKDhfq0o3eC7S73m4z3ArfH99l0tcqTjPpFgkOFuYekaTu-ql07Q_aem_vlkrXj_JK4ci5At8yrLD9w&h=AT14nNGXlgnae3C_NK13855G-M7WfBYhUwHORlkZeSNQWGOqHMEGNl1aM7_uHGMG5LVa4kd2hm1fQrMe7VkxD2R82sOz1zx2fWCOanbn2iPJQG-7uD-hnWqxf95rWr4AppPCVJGqGuYzWkUaO6KdRmI&__tn__=H-R&c[0]=AT1XEye8FKfVKCOniIFJrQYQ5BewEmJLQw2PoJKpj3OopcySmphbjj6tfdMl3idb8kaDx0-6KI58LomJQOcsFj1ERS-CmWW3UeuHIDVERq0r_1mlkSCrFoq1-Cyf0sxOqcyxlp1Ea6hykjlQbmxCXyX-_g9jOe0MS5lM-sjSeLc2jFMH7Ec Top Prop 2 blade is about 3 lbs heavier than the Original 2 blade Hartzell Prop but on C models gets rid of the "avoid continuous RPM" operation restriction in Cruise. if I recall correctly on the 'E model it reduced the avoid continuous range operation in Cruise.

Just reviving this thread for a moment - does anyone have a link where to buy/find the 1970 F service/parts manual? thank you!

The point is that if you have Aithre, and you lose power you will be facing both loss of oxygen and loss of power. With Inogen you will only face loss of power. Loss of oxygen will only make a helmet fire worse. And BTW, I said loss of the power to the charging circuit. That could be a breaker issue on that circuit rather than a total loss of power to the plane. And BTW if someone wants a light Inogen just leave the battery off and run it on plane power like @Pinecone says he does in the Inogen topic.

On my F the ONLY sound comes from the Sonalert; nothing to do with headphone/speaker audio. No idea if it's different for a J.

There may be a simpler more elegant solution..... Hooks historically waived the ramp/landing fee if you purchased fuel. "Roll the fuel truck and top her off". Then he can have it dragged to the ramp with no Vector/PlanePass fee!